Archive through February 26, 2010

[aschmidt]

Don, it would probally not be advised, cause there are o-rings in there. The ones that i sent you in the aux. hydraulics splitting kit, I regroove them so that the snap ring fits on behind the thicker metal. I can get you some more, or i do have a collection of ones that i have taken out of cubs.... Aaron - Xtreme Motorworks

 

[stanner]

Don T,
I shot a couple of pics of one I had in the cub garage, FWIW...

 

[dfrisk]

SCOTT T. - Only problems I see with the bulkhead fittings is the hose end inside the tractor's frame is 3/8" male pipe thread if I remember correctly. The bulkhead fitting for that should be easy to find, if the hose is long enough. The quick connect or "Pioneer coupler" is female pipe, and most of it is recessed INSIDE the frame of the tractor to keep it out of harms way. There would have to be a closed nipple between the bulkhead fitting & coupler.

That would have the coupler sticking approximately five to six inches beyond the front frame of the tractor.

Sounds like Don may be working on adding rear hyd. outlets. I just bought two 6 ft lengths of hose to add to the hose already on my cart and used the frt outlets. If I ever pull the cart with the M or Super H I'll need that extra hose to reach the couplers on them, since they're both plumbed to run the loaders.

 

[dtanner]

Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks
Your Kit is great. I did not have front ports and was trying to get this right the first time.I will use the ports you sent in the Cat o as the instructions.I want to get this tractor finished as the snow is laeving here fast. Gust to 50 mile per hr and rain in side ways lol. I`am Installing as per your great directions. Drained the rear end today and put the tires on the tractor I will run.Charlie will send me new hydro valves so I got lots of time here. Heck I`am retired so (don`t tell )I got time.

 

[thenrie]

Actually I think Dave was making a joke about the way the pivot pin was ripped out of the front crossmember, creating a "quick-disconnect" front axle. Apparently the rolled pin slipped out of the pivot pin, which allowed the pivot pin to move forward, eventually slipping out of the aft socket. Then the axle rotated and simply ripped the pivot pin, front socket and all, right out of the crossmember. The PO apparently didn't know what was happening until after the fact

I am aware of the 3/4" bolt fix and I am considering going that way. If anybody knows of any reason not to do that, please advise.

 

[stanner]

Tony,
I was able to slip a fender washer between the frame and the axle. This will really take up the slack then you tighten the bolt up, making for real tight steering...

 

[jbaker]

Tony I dont know if it would work but i thought of welding a bearing that size on the inside, but I am not a welder so it may not work, what do some of you welding guys think.

 

[mgwin]

Jeff B.,
I have been involved with welding for 22 years, and I have never heard of anyone welding a bearing without destroying it! When you weld the outside of the race, it produces a bulge on the inside of the race. We welded on a 5 foot trash compactor cylinder at work and couldn't get the piston out with a Kenworth because of the bulge!

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff-

That's not a good application for a bearing anyway...the pivot pin travels through less than 20 degrees or so. That would probably wear the bearings funny because they aren't rotating and are constantly loaded and wearing on just one little area. It is the way it is for a reason.

Not to mention that the pivot pin should not rotate relative to the axle...the axle pivots on the pin.

 

[tdaugherty]

Hey fellas,
I am planning to fix this issue once and for all tomorrow morning. I strongly think it has to do with something electrical. Besides replacing the condenser, and cleaning the points, i am planning to install a new regulator, but i have a question. The old regulator says F, GEN, and BAT on the right 3 terminals, and the one left one says G. The new one says F, BAT, and L on the right 3 terminals, and it has one located on the rear of the box to the left side. Is the rear terminal the GEN terminal on the new regulator? Can anyone post up a diagram that would show me where the old wires would go on the new connections? Thanks.

 

[tdaugherty]

I am also not sure how to polarize the new regulator, and i am not sure where the old wires would hook up to. I need help! Thanks cadeteers!

 

[dtanner]

Tim Daugherty

the G stands for ground !(I am also not sure how to polarize the new regulator, )
Charlie has a fact on how to do the polarizing. no big deal and i`am not sure its needed.
because I think each time you start the Cub its automatic.,

 

[tdaugherty]

So whats the L stand for? I dont see a G terminal on the new one. All it says is F, BAT, L, and there is one in the back that doesnt say anything, is that one for the GEN? I tryed hooking the new one up before, and when i tried to attach the battery ground cable, the ground cable sparked, and the water started to bubble. What does L stand for, and would the bubbles stop if i had polarized it? Thanks.

 

[jbaker]

Marty and Matt

Thanks for explaining why it would not work, another good example of how good this forum is for learning.

 

[dtanner]

Tim Daugherty

Now i stand corrected sparks are not my deal
F---- Field or gen
B---- Battery
L --- lights on a 149 ! You will have to read the fact , but think i`am right

 

[dtanner]

jeff l baker (

In the am I will post a picture of my 129 loader that I did that repair to also. It was not as bad but can be fixed the same as I did and will stand the work my loader puts on the pin . Not a hard repair really.

 

[tdaugherty]

should i put the Ground on the L terminal, and the GEN wire on the back terminal, because the others are F and Bat, so i know which of the old wires go on those, i am just left with the GEN wire, and G wire. Can someone post up a diagram showing where to place the old wires on a newer style regulator? Thanks y'all.

 

[digger]

Tim D.
The G marking on the bottom goes to the Generator on the new 3 outer terminal regulators.

 

[dross]

L is for load. it's what feeds the ign. switch.

 

[pszollosy]

hi everybody, newly joined the cub cadet family, bought a model 123 hydrostatic , it all seems to work fine, but the throttle shaft has a lot of play in it, hard to get it to idle and rev up right, is there any kind of fix or will i have to replace it?