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Archive through February 19, 2008
- Thread starter dtanner
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Don, wow, good thing you caught that before it let loose completely!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don T.-
Those bolts were WAY too tight. And I mean WAY too tight. I bet that contributed to its failure.
Those bolts were WAY too tight. And I mean WAY too tight. I bet that contributed to its failure.
My wife and I's late Valentine's Day gifts arrived today. Can you guess which gift belongs to whom and who got the better deal? Can't wait to put those Deerstone's on. The current tires have fluid in them. I know I'll need to let the tire place know that they have fluid in them but will they even do it or will I need to drain them myself? The current tires are rotted bad and trashed so I may just slit a big whole in them and drain them.
Adrian, ummmm, you got the tires I'm guessing!
Allen, no cracks in the welds, turns out that it's a shadow line where the welds melted back into the hub. The slot in the pulley hub doesn't look near as bad as the crank is or as bad as the photo indicated.
Maybe this type of key would work in the damaged slot on my other Kohler?
Allen, no cracks in the welds, turns out that it's a shadow line where the welds melted back into the hub. The slot in the pulley hub doesn't look near as bad as the crank is or as bad as the photo indicated.
Maybe this type of key would work in the damaged slot on my other Kohler?
Kraig; I had the same problem on my 128.Someone on the forum suggested using a longer piece of key stock;did that and picked up another pulley,and VIOLA!Just can't use the PTO,but I use this tractor for plowing only,so all is well.
Bobby, thanks, if you look close at the photo of good crank shaft I posted you can see the longer key that has a half moon on the engine end and is notched for clearance on the PTO end. I think if I can find another key like this one along with Charlie's "2 part epoxy" suggestion I should be good to go. I could use this one on the damaged crank but I'd rather keep it on the Killer Kohler as I like the idea of a better key being on it. In any case this is a secondary concern, the priority concern is getting the #1 125 prepared to mount the Killer Kohler into for initial startup so I can get the governor set and warm it up and then re-torque the head bolts. I can hardly wait to hear it run.
Kraig,
That's what I would use. Custom cut a key that will fit the whole length of the keyway. File the end so it fits the radius and cut the top off where the bearing fits. I would fill the gaps with JB weld or what I call "JB gap filler". (Insert Ken's
here.
) You cant weld the pulley to the crank because its cast, but you already knew that.
It looks to me like someone used a steel key on the pulley. Normally you want the key to be sacrificial not the crank.
I think you can get Keystock at NAPA or Fleetfarm
That's what I would use. Custom cut a key that will fit the whole length of the keyway. File the end so it fits the radius and cut the top off where the bearing fits. I would fill the gaps with JB weld or what I call "JB gap filler". (Insert Ken's
It looks to me like someone used a steel key on the pulley. Normally you want the key to be sacrificial not the crank.
I think you can get Keystock at NAPA or Fleetfarm
Don T - you got lucky to catch that rag joint when you did, I had one "self destruct" a few years ago on my 1650 and it also wiped out all of my hydro linkages, needless to say I look at all my rag joints periodically since then.
Kraig - How are you going to use a Woodruf Key in a straight cut keyway ?
I'm sure that any "2 puke epoxy" will center it up fine for Charlie but do you really want to do that ?
I'm sure that if you bought an old cub and found a pulley fixed like that'd you'd be saying you wish you'd paid less for it due to the way it was repaired.
I'd pull the crank and weld it up then turn it and re-cut the keyway.
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Terry - You can weld it to it IF it was a "have to case". I took an engine that had been on a gen set that had the crank broke where the tapper on the crank started. It was a step down 7/8" diameter and I turned a steel bushing in the lathe and welded it on to bring it up to 1" then I cut the bushing's keyway with a Weller moto tool to meet with the crank slot. Ran it for years on a 36" wide tiller behind my home made tractor.
Now back to Pink Floyd: The Wall video on TV ....
I'm sure that any "2 puke epoxy" will center it up fine for Charlie but do you really want to do that ?
I'm sure that if you bought an old cub and found a pulley fixed like that'd you'd be saying you wish you'd paid less for it due to the way it was repaired.
I'd pull the crank and weld it up then turn it and re-cut the keyway.
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Terry - You can weld it to it IF it was a "have to case". I took an engine that had been on a gen set that had the crank broke where the tapper on the crank started. It was a step down 7/8" diameter and I turned a steel bushing in the lathe and welded it on to bring it up to 1" then I cut the bushing's keyway with a Weller moto tool to meet with the crank slot. Ran it for years on a 36" wide tiller behind my home made tractor.
Now back to Pink Floyd: The Wall video on TV ....
bbrigham
Well-known member
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- Brendan Brigham
Thanks Terry, I wanted to post earlier about the key being sacrificial but couldn't think of the word, I can stop lookin in the dictionary now. I used to keep a couple boxes of those on the shelf for those people that would give push mowers away after they hit something with them. New key and off them for $40, easy money.
KENtucky, I don't plan on using a Woodruff key. I mentioned "a longer key with the tapered end like a half moon key". If you look at the photo below of the key in the Killer Kohler note the end is rounded so that it fits into the slot all the way into where the slot ends, this is what I meant by a "...tapered end like a half moon key". Probably not the best description, but that was the best I could come up with having not had much coffee at the time of the post this morning.
I really don't want to have to tear this engine down yet. I was hoping to use it in the "Utility Cub", no need for a PTO on it in that application so I could use a long key and just taper or round off the engine end and leave it full height on the PTO end of the crank.
I really don't want to have to tear this engine down yet. I was hoping to use it in the "Utility Cub", no need for a PTO on it in that application so I could use a long key and just taper or round off the engine end and leave it full height on the PTO end of the crank.
