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Archive through February 13, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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hydroharry

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
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Harry Bursell
Brian A and David S - glad I was able to help. I may have a source I could check into for something comparable. Shoot me an e-mail.

Steve B - did I inspire you on the cap? Nice.

Don T - no, I don't need to RTFM. Been there, done that, got the Canandian T-shirt door prize. I didn't recall which model thrower you had. I said the tensioner wasn't correct for an "A" suffix because I could see the handle was for the non-A suffix thrower. It's a sorta thin steel channel handle, and the A suffix units get a solid steel handle slightly curved - same shape as the steel clamps on the chute. So hardee-har-har.

Now - I just wish Charlie would SWOOSH those dang green pics.
 
Scott, I think the gas tank formula is 1/2 & 1/2 w/water. Have had a few things soaking in vinegar the last few days, but it seems like it's taking like forever.

Was thinking a 5 gal plastic bucket w/lid for anything that will fit in it, and then just cap it till I'm ready for a gas tank.

I'd sand blast, but my air lines are all frozen up and probably will be for a few more weeks and I'm wanting to paint/rattlecan all the small stuff for the 126 so I can at least get the engine all back together and ready to fire.

Have a nice upper engine tin and muffler heat shield that needs cleaned up and painted. Looks like all that stuff needs to be on the engine before I can torque the heads.
 
Hey Digger
As you know I'm new to the site, am I correct in assuming that when I open up each day, I gotta go all the way to the bottom of the page and work my way up to follow the conversations on the forum?
I'm slowly figuring all this computer stuff out, but at 70 yr.s old, I don't know if I'll have enough time to figure it all out!
Is there anyone on the site that considers themselves as really knowledgeable on the "ORIGINAL" ?
Jack
 
I just got a call from a neighbor who's bought an old International pickup and wants my "mechanical help" with it. It'll be awhile before we can retrieve it from where it sits (it's still winter, ya know). Any suggestions on where to take it here if/when I want to post about it?
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Now Frank CCCCCCCC (I'm shivering) - didn't you get the award last year? You can't win 2 in a row. Why come spring after the snow is all melted I'll bet you and Donnie T will be arguing it out about how tall the snow piles were up there. Yours will have covered the whole house, and Don's, well, he couldn't even guess where his shed was. Now, as far as my suggestion on where to take that International Pick'm-Up Truck - Florida would be a good place
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(back under edit) - I know some people nominated Brian Williams for the award, but he won't win. We've all got some war stories. Back when I was a kid my Dad used to tell me some real good ones about the Korean War, but when I got older he finally told me he was only in the Army 6 months and only got as far as Colorado Springs. I guess if I was on a late-nite talk show my war stories might be a bit embellished too.

Jack - there are several people on here quite knowledgeable on Originals, but I'm not one of them, and I don't know if Frank C is either but I guess you can ask him about IH Pick'm-Up trucks.
 
I have a Cub 123 I have just finished restoring. I finally got the engine to turn over and run yesterday after sitting for 3 years. But my Hydrostatic Transmission won't engage... Not sure why..any help would be great! And yes it does have hydraulic fluid in it. Someone was telling me that if I "rolled" it around a lot without running the engine that I can ruin the Hydrostatic Transmission... Is that true?
Thanks Wade
 
Wade: The 123 - light of my life. Your relief valves are stuck down.
 
Frank - there you go again, diagnosing the problem and not providing a solution. You can't get any points toward the award for that.

Wade - as Frank said you're problem is very likely the hydro relief valves on top of the Hydro Pump being stuck in the down position. I think the 123 has a handle on the side of the frame that pushes them down so the tractor can be rolled. Make sure that handle isn't in the position holding them down.

Otherwise, as far as I know there is no real way to access these valves on a 123 without splitting the rearend from the frame. You could try somehow getting some penetrating fluid onto the top of the valves and then leave it sit there for a few days but that's somewhat of a long shot.
Also, I would try running the engine for awhile and work your hydro control lever back and forth on the chance the line pressure just happens to push the valves back up - BUT BE CAREFUL doing this and make sure you don't have something in front or behind the tractor in case it suddenly jumps.

Now, on your question about ruining the hydro pump by moving the tractor without the engine running? For short distances it shouldn't be a problem. It's most likely going to ruin the pump if you tow the tractor any distance - apparently it will build up heat and ruin the pump - but I have no specifics other than what others have said on here.
 
Wade - here's a pic of what the relief valves look like on the pump. (Please ignore the pump color). In this pic you can see the little buttons on top of the relief valves, the left one is stuck down and the right one is up.

Maybe Kraig can add some red arrows to help show them.

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And since I'm posting pics, here's one of where I was thinking about moving when I retire.
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Harry Bursell

Towing a hydro tractor will damage the end of the pistons and the swash plate . simple is the heat and friction scores everything so The pistons (valves) lose the tolerance (clearance) they are designed to have to be efficient .short tows with not much speed and you could be safe . I would vote for the hydro relief valves if I can look from the back of the tractor and see the tail shaft on the hydro is turning . That way you can eliminate shear pins in the drive shaft . Also be safe , put the tractor up on jack stands if you plan to do the forward reverse lever movement to shock the relief valves back working . play safe
 
Harry

If you move there you could be mayor , police chief , fire fighter . well you know the big guy around ! lol
 
Don T - good info for Wade.

Wade - make sure you read thru Don T's message right below. Good and more exact info.

Don and David - it was the housing that interested me most. That place in the back ground looks pretty nice and had a heck of a good price. As for being the big cheese, heck never had a problem being that, cept in Wisconsin.
 
Jack Marks
Please send on a picture of your cubs so we can enjoy them also. If you have a question on your original , ask away I`am sure you will get the info you need from someone . I have two O`s and know a little , but I bet we as a group we can answer all your question .
 
Jack, what are your questions regarding Originals?

Hydro, ya mean like this:

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Kraig - YIKES!!!! Those are naked arrows. They got no tail feathers and this is a public site. NICE. Thanks.
 
I am restoring a 1964 100 and the previous owner had cut out an area around the shifter to access the top of the rear end. I am looking for the dimensions of the original hole so I can finish my restoration.
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Harry B. you need to get your mind out of the gutter. Have you been reading that book again? Fifty shades of.................yellow
 
Roger - hopefully we got someone on here that can take a pic of their 100 frame with a ruler laying on it. Below are the best pics I have from my files. I don't have access to my 100 right now (it's in another state). You might be better off by trying to find another 100 frame from a tractor that's gone to that big place in the sky, and cut out the correct part to add onto yours.
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