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Archive through February 08, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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thoffman

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Tom Hoffman
The more the radius the less speed you need to curl it off the blade.
 
but, anyone got an idea of what would be the most cost effective way to get a little more speed on a 782 hydro, with 26" tires on back.
 
Now that i have the highway blade done, and waiting for it to snow here in minnesota, i got another project done. I have always wanted to do this to see how it would look. Seems to build up so much heat under the hood in the summer with the side panels on, so i thought this might help. It was tricky to keep it from warping - didnt turn out too bad. The Go-Pro 3 mount on front looks kinda silly, but hoping to make some action shots of the new blade soon. Now the rest of the tractor looks like its going to need a paint job - that will have to wait since my 782 loader tractor is just a worker.

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Aaron S.
You want SPEED!
GT pullers do it the right way, LOL
This is a variation of the Dodge Dart rearend.
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That looks factory, Aaron. And you're right --the heat does build up under a 782 hood in the summer, especially here in the Sunny South (where it isn't snowing)
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Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! ! ....Get it???
 
Aaron

You do "NICE" work ! I like that hood vent.
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A few weeks ago I ask the question of gearing in a Cub rear end. I ask if any Car rear end gears would fit so I could get a locker for my 1512 D . Now Charlie goes and spills the beans . Just what year Dart will fit ? What size housing will work ?
I know where there is and air locker for a Jeep I can get Cheap lol.
 
Don-
You can use a Chrysler 7-1/4" or a Ford Pinto rear end, but it's gonna take a lot of machining to make it work. (Not to mention, I don't think they ever made a 'locker' for either one of those?)
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Aaron,

Just don't hit anything too hard with that blade, or you're likely to "cheese grater" you face on the hood!!!!!! OUCH!!!!!
 
Steve B - point taken! Better watch the rammin speeds on them hard drifts.

Michael M - the plates were done on a Finn-Power Turret. They are part of some larger door panels that got rejected, so I just couldn't let them go to the recycler. Im kinda a hoarder of metal at times. LOL
 
As I am freshing up my 1450 I decided to "KIRK-nize the engine
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Looking forward to a smoooooth ride!
 
DARRYL - I had Dave Kirk balance the K321 in my 72 when I built it 6-7 yrs ago. Those counter-weights make a WORLD of difference. That K321 vibrates LESS than the K241 it replaced. But it sure pulls a WHOLE lot harder.
 
Dennis. I agree... got it put back together and there is much less vibration...still snow on the ground here in central Minnesota so can't work the o'girl yet.... all in all, I'm pretty happy with it....
I also put a front axle from a 1641 (or something, had it quite a while) and the 3-1/2 turn sterring set-up... can't waite to get to work with my "new" 1450.
A freind of mine just bought a new Off Topic 18 hp tractor with hydra lift....after I looked it over I was very greatful for my 1450....
 
The 1200 has returned to my garage to stay. It has now become my project tractor. I've always wanted to build a narrow front cub and now I have the candidate to do it. Any advice or input would be appreciated. I have researched a few different ways to go about this and think I have a fairly inexpensive way to go about it seeing as I don't have access to a machine shop.
 
Joseph - I made mine using the bushings from an original front wheel, a piece of pipe that the bushings "almost" fit into - and then welded a 3/4 hardened pin on a piece of tubing that fit into the front axle pivot area. Basically I can remove my narrow front and put a wide frame back on in about ten minutes, no butchering involved. I had 8" fronts on it but needed 15" rears to level it out. Got a lot better with 6" tri ribs and 12" ags. This was on a narrow frame, but yours should be similar.
 
Sounds very interesting. Do you have any pics of your set up?
 

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