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Archive through December 14, 2008
- Thread starter sstanton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I really liked the power steering conversion that I read about on a 1200 cub that had a backhoe on the back plus a loader on the front, I just carried a load of firewood in mine and I noticed that the steering was 50% harder so I think that would be the very next thing "to do" on this 1450. Also I read about one conversion on this forum which looks great. I would appreciate any advice on which parts I would need to gather to do this.
pat
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kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis:
I've never come up with a satisfactory solution to where to put a heater on the bigger Kohlers. I thought about a dipstick style (too long) and I saw an add someplace for a flexible patch type - but never followed up on it.
I've never come up with a satisfactory solution to where to put a heater on the bigger Kohlers. I thought about a dipstick style (too long) and I saw an add someplace for a flexible patch type - but never followed up on it.
Nick, first make sure that the spirol pins in the rock shaft are not partially sheared. Once you confirm that they are intact then you can proceed to the lift rod length. Most likely the lift rod was the wrong length. Here's how you measure for the correct length, this was posted by Steve B. many many years ago. Park the Cub on 2x lumber on a flat surface like a garage floor. Lower the blade to the floor, do not rest it on the 2x lumber. Make sure the lift is all the way down then measure the length from the lift bracket on the tractor to the lift bracket on the blade, that is the length that your lift rod should be. The lock out is for down pressure, with it installed you will have down pressure, with it locked out it will allow the blade to float.
Denny, Kendell, I was never able to properly get heat into my Kohlers and once I learned to use the magnetic heater on the hydro rear end I've never had any problem starting my Cubs. I've tried the dip stick heaters and like Kendell mentioned, they are too long. Magnetic heaters don't work on the aluminum oil pans on the 12hp and up Kohlers. The 10hp has a flat cast iron oil pan that a magnetic heater would work on but I don't have any 10hp Kohlers.
Denny, Kendell, I was never able to properly get heat into my Kohlers and once I learned to use the magnetic heater on the hydro rear end I've never had any problem starting my Cubs. I've tried the dip stick heaters and like Kendell mentioned, they are too long. Magnetic heaters don't work on the aluminum oil pans on the 12hp and up Kohlers. The 10hp has a flat cast iron oil pan that a magnetic heater would work on but I don't have any 10hp Kohlers.
OK this should be an easy one. I am not sure how to properly attach my 42" snow blade to my 129. I tried searching for manuals but couldnt find any. I have it slid into the hitches and the lift mechanism attached and working... I am just not sure how the blade is retained... I mean there isnt anything holding it from comming out forward except the lift rod, this cant be right. There is a little swing down thing on the front mounts but when it clicks down there is still enough room for the thing to slide right out, perhaps this is wrong IDK. Appreciate any help, need to get this thing readsy for winter!
Tristan, if you lift and hold the QA retaining mechanism up, does the blade subframe still slide out? If not then the springs for the QA retaining clip are not doing their job. If it still slips out then the QA retaining clip is worn out.
BTW, here's a link to a manual for you.
BTW, here's a link to a manual for you.
Tristan, here is a photo from a narrow frame QA with a blade subframe mounted, but should be similar enough to your wide frame to get the point across. Check this area of the QA clips for wear, note the red line. Also make sure the round studs on the blade subframe are not worn to the point where they slip through the QA clips. And finally make sure the QA mechanism moves fully to it's locked position.
KRAIG, KENDELL - I just Zip-tie'd the short cord from My magnetic heater to the tie rod on the 72 so I wouldn't loose it. My K321 in the 72 now has a cast iron oil pan but there's nothing flat enough for the heater to stick to securely. The K321 came out of a 147.
If I need to run anything and it's bitterly cold like this AM I just aim the 100,000 BTU kerosene torpedo Redi-Heater at the engine from 8-10 feet away for 10-20 minutes. The Super H and the pickup that has to be moved outside to get the Super H out to push snow both have block heaters. I have a timer for the heater on the truck, run it for 3-4 hours and it starts like it's 90 degrees out, The cord on the heater on the SH gets hot so I never leave it running unattended. 20 years ago I had a 1500W block heater on My 300-6 in My 1987 F-150 I used to plug in every night when it was real cold out. One morning I jumped in the truck to start it inside the shop and it cranked over R-e-a-l slow but started anyhow. I got out to unplug the heater and two burned ends of the cords, the one for the heater and the end of the extension cord laid there in a pile of charred debris. Lucky I didn't loose the truck, the 72 & 129, and ALL my shop tools that night. Other than letting the truck run on the timer while plugged into a GFI protected outlet I never let block heaters run unattended now. I also wire-brush the contacts on the plugs every year so there's no corrosion for better contact and less heat. Plus the truck's plug has a cover to protect it when not plugged in and I hide the plug behind the bumper.
If I need to run anything and it's bitterly cold like this AM I just aim the 100,000 BTU kerosene torpedo Redi-Heater at the engine from 8-10 feet away for 10-20 minutes. The Super H and the pickup that has to be moved outside to get the Super H out to push snow both have block heaters. I have a timer for the heater on the truck, run it for 3-4 hours and it starts like it's 90 degrees out, The cord on the heater on the SH gets hot so I never leave it running unattended. 20 years ago I had a 1500W block heater on My 300-6 in My 1987 F-150 I used to plug in every night when it was real cold out. One morning I jumped in the truck to start it inside the shop and it cranked over R-e-a-l slow but started anyhow. I got out to unplug the heater and two burned ends of the cords, the one for the heater and the end of the extension cord laid there in a pile of charred debris. Lucky I didn't loose the truck, the 72 & 129, and ALL my shop tools that night. Other than letting the truck run on the timer while plugged into a GFI protected outlet I never let block heaters run unattended now. I also wire-brush the contacts on the plugs every year so there's no corrosion for better contact and less heat. Plus the truck's plug has a cover to protect it when not plugged in and I hide the plug behind the bumper.
Tristan: Having owned my snow blade since 1974 finally a couple years ago I cut the pins off of the blade subframe that slide into the QA attachment.
I drilled them out after cutting them and then welded in a new set of pins. Resolved my problem right away. Also follow up on what Kraig had to say.
Also make sure somebody has not bent the arm brackets from sub frame to QA forwards just a bit.
Good luck------------Pops
I drilled them out after cutting them and then welded in a new set of pins. Resolved my problem right away. Also follow up on what Kraig had to say.
Also make sure somebody has not bent the arm brackets from sub frame to QA forwards just a bit.
Good luck------------Pops
Thanks guys for the quick responses. I do not recall seeing the spring clips at all (didnt even know they were suppose to be spring clips) so perhaps they are broke off. I'll double check when I get home tonight, its always possible I didnt even notice they were there - it was dark out last night working with a flashlight and this is the first time I have used the QA system.
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