Archive through December 10, 2011

[thenrie]

Thanks for the pic, Ken. That looks just like what I have. I'm trying to figure out what part limits the high rpms. My engine revs pretty high. High enough that I'm uncomfortable with it for a flathead engine. Can't figure out how the governor is supposed to work to limit the high end. On the parts list there are a "Governor Gear" and a "Governor Limiting Pin" (or something like that) and I can't seem to identify them on my engine. I don't see them on yours either, so maybe the parts list I have is in error.

 

[mpatterson]

Dave,

I picked this one up in Watertown, NY yesterday. It came from Pensylvannia before that and supposed to have originated in New Jersey somewhere. I have not looked on Kijji lately. Last time I was on there they only had newer Cubs and they were of no intrest to me. You find many up in your area or you have to go South of the border too?

 

[kfreeman]

Tony,

I have the same issue. I haven't really looked at it. I did buy a optical tach so that I can actually measure the RPM's. I think the high limit stop is part of the pivot on the intake manifold.

 

[thenrie]

I figured out the problem with the governor on my 682. I bought a KT17 Service Manual and page 22 addresses the Governor in detail. The Governor Gear is inside the crank case and runs off a gear on the camshaft. That's why I couldn't find it. My problem is that the Governor Arm is loose on the Cross Shaft, which means that even though the Governor is working, it can't limit the movement of the Governor Arm, because it is slipping freely on the Cross Shaft. I know the arm is loose, because it was loose when I removed the carb for cleaning the other day, and when I replaced it I left it loose, just like I found it. Didn't know any better. Manual says the governor should be adjusted to limit RPMs to 3600 no-load, and 3200 under load. I'll get to it this week and report back. I tried to attach the page from the manual, but it was too big and wasn't readable in smaller format.

Just goes to show, if all else fails...read the directions!

Thanks for the help.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Brian J. You're welcome.

Ryan M. That is one neat little 102 that we brought home for you yesterday. Did you get any pics of the 122 with the rear pto that we also looked at? Angel said that we need to print up flyers like the American Pickers guys. I think if we'd left one with that gal at the Caseys store she would be on the lookout for us. (We'll be needing another truck and a trailer before spring at this rate.)

 

[rmcshane]

Marlin-The only pic I have of it is the one the guy sent me on my phone. If we had another trailer, and won the lottery...we would both be building new sheds...because we already know both of ours were full 3 buys ago

 

[mschutz]

Marlin and Ryan, Just say NO! People were telling me about CC's all over. I had to tell them I don't have room so don't tell me. Bummer!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Melody S. But, everyone knows that Cub Cadets are better than chocolate candy.

And if we don't get them then Charlie will.

 

[gcorzine]

oil ???

picked up a 1650 this weekend appears to be in good shape and is all complete with rear weight box - person i bought this from claims the purchased this new but has been sitting unused for a while.
it starded up after about 5 minutes of tinkering and seams to run fine - no smoke or knocks
first item on the list is of course change oil the oil was very dirty and black.
refilled with 30 weight and started up - after checking new oil change oil appeared either white or milky like maybe water which - no water came out from the original oil

i let this run a little bit and change oil again with 30 weight - restarded today and there is still a small amount of white milky residue on dip stick - nothing near like the first oil change

anybody know what this could be ---- no smoke or was there any metal shavings on magnetic oil drain plug - would like to keep this tractor if this clears up ----- any suggestions

 

[digger]

Marlin,
I'll use the real thing,

 

[rmcshane]

George-

Ive had that same problem with several older Cubs Ive bought that have sat for a long time. The milky oil, from what I determined, is probably old condensation/oil/water mixture that has been in the engine over the years. When you started it, the new oil probably cleaned all of that nasty stuff off all the parts inside. IMHO, I wouldnt worry about it too much. Might want to run the engine for a little while and change it soon.

BTW, lets see some pics!!

Melody and Marlin,

It is very hard to say NO. lol

 

[rbeem]

Was the engine cold (as in frozen) when you changed the oil?
The water could have remained as ice when you changed oil.
Change it again ASAP.

 

[kphill]

Started painting the QA36A getting it ready for the season...Being it is for work and not show I have been painting it with Velspar from TSC...Really impressed with the stuff..Covers well and lays down nice...I could not see spending $15.00 a spray can for CC paint when this stuff works just as well for $5.00 a can... It is going to get beat up anyway...

 

[gcorzine]

trying to figure out how to upload photos of the 1650 appears photo size to big

 

[aschumacher]

George, e-mail them to Kraig tomorrow. He can resize them for you.

 

[dcharette]

Mike P.
Every now and then a good deal pops up but most are out to lunch on their prices.
There are always a few around the Hamilton area.

 

[dphelps]

George C and Ryan McS,

can you tell if the previous owners used Non-Detergent oil? i had one do the same and was using 30W Detergent oil when i knew the previous owner did maintence by the book.

 

[kfreeman]

My 1250 has internal wet brakes. I am leaking hydraulic fluid at the brake retainer. In order to replace the o-ring, can this retainer be removed from the front side of the rear end? Or do I have to remove the differential, etc. and attack it from the rear? The service manual says to push the brake retainer out the front of the housing from the inside after you have removed everything else.

 

[aaytay]

Ken-
Remove #7 and #8 in the diagram below. (You'll need to remove the rear-cover from the trans-case first to drain all of the Hytran.)

After that you can remove #6, and should be able to pull out the brake puck (#3) with a needle-nose pliers if the bore isn't too rusted.

Since you'll be replacing the O-ring (#4) try to clean up the forward end of the bore so you don't trash the new O-ring upon reassembly.

 

[sbauer]

Does anyone put slip plate (graphite paint on the blower auger or just the housing of their snow blowers?