Allen, the engine cranks fine. The points open and close and are gapped. I changed all the wires, checked for continuity. I metered the - side of coil while cranking and the meter went haywire, registering all voltages between 0 and 12. I cleaned the terminals on the rectifier and checked for continuity of the wires. Is there a way to test the rectifier and coil? I am sure I get 12V at the + side of coil. Does all this point to bad rectifier?
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Archive through December 03, 2011
- Thread starter bjohnson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Brian J.-
If you are using new points, make sure to clean them by running a piece of paper through them to clean off the oil that keeps them from corroding in shipping. Is the wire between the points and coil good? Are both the plug and plug wire good?
If you are using new points, make sure to clean them by running a piece of paper through them to clean off the oil that keeps them from corroding in shipping. Is the wire between the points and coil good? Are both the plug and plug wire good?
Matt-
Yep, it's there. The two arms from the tiller are fastened in the lowest holes of that bracket. I try wiggling the whole tiller (raised) side to side and get very little play. It's like it has been twisted or sort of warped. Aren't these pulleys suppose to line up fairly close?
Yep, it's there. The two arms from the tiller are fastened in the lowest holes of that bracket. I try wiggling the whole tiller (raised) side to side and get very little play. It's like it has been twisted or sort of warped. Aren't these pulleys suppose to line up fairly close?
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Wayne,
I feel your pain.. The pulley mis-alignment comes from years of use and all of the holes are wallowed out enough that when all put together, adds up to what you see... I would try taking it apart and get some flange bushings from your local hardware store, and install them to tighted up the holes.. You have to make sure that you drill the new hole in the original position, not where it is now... I was thinking using a carbide burr to grind the hole out to the right size while taking off more material from front side of the holes... Some guys just tighten the snot out of the tiller to get it to line up. Mine is worse than yours looks...
As for the lift, My dad just bent the seat pan... Grrrr. An easy way to fix is to drill an additional cotter pin hole in the upper sleeve hitch rod (the white thingy) to space the whole lift point out about and inch or so. It'll clear, and you'll get additional lift to boot..
I feel your pain.. The pulley mis-alignment comes from years of use and all of the holes are wallowed out enough that when all put together, adds up to what you see... I would try taking it apart and get some flange bushings from your local hardware store, and install them to tighted up the holes.. You have to make sure that you drill the new hole in the original position, not where it is now... I was thinking using a carbide burr to grind the hole out to the right size while taking off more material from front side of the holes... Some guys just tighten the snot out of the tiller to get it to line up. Mine is worse than yours looks...
As for the lift, My dad just bent the seat pan... Grrrr. An easy way to fix is to drill an additional cotter pin hole in the upper sleeve hitch rod (the white thingy) to space the whole lift point out about and inch or so. It'll clear, and you'll get additional lift to boot..
elamott
Well-known member
I made a repair on my 129 that I thought I would pass on to anyone who find a use for it.
The PTO drive pulley was loose and I didn't notice it until it ruined the pulley hub and wore the crank shaft keyway about 1/16 oversized. I went to the dealer to get a new pulley and also asked him for a long key so I could go past the worn section of the keyway. He did not have any keys but he mentioned that when he used to fix this problem he would put in a long key, grind off the area that the bearing and lock ring go over, and fill in the worn out area with JB Weld. He said that this will last a long time.
I just finished and it looks good. Just in time because the snow is starting to fall.
I have attached (from photobucket) a picture of the shaft with the key in and ground.
Earl LaMott
![url]](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/440/440dd5d1c0760181c267c52ae3de72e7)
The PTO drive pulley was loose and I didn't notice it until it ruined the pulley hub and wore the crank shaft keyway about 1/16 oversized. I went to the dealer to get a new pulley and also asked him for a long key so I could go past the worn section of the keyway. He did not have any keys but he mentioned that when he used to fix this problem he would put in a long key, grind off the area that the bearing and lock ring go over, and fill in the worn out area with JB Weld. He said that this will last a long time.
I just finished and it looks good. Just in time because the snow is starting to fall.
I have attached (from photobucket) a picture of the shaft with the key in and ground.
Earl LaMott
Wayne & Scott,
Mine doesn't line up very well either. I just moved the pulley on the tiller out as far as it will go. Even though it's still not perfectly lined up, I haven't had any trouble.
Looking at your picture, I wonder if the entire tiller can be shifted to the right in the brackets and adding a shim to the right side?
Mine doesn't line up very well either. I just moved the pulley on the tiller out as far as it will go. Even though it's still not perfectly lined up, I haven't had any trouble.
Looking at your picture, I wonder if the entire tiller can be shifted to the right in the brackets and adding a shim to the right side?
Earl,
Cool fix...looks good.....
just hope ol'Kentuck Ken skips this one....he could give one an "expletive deleted " well informed opinion regarding JB Weld...
It's his blood pressure we worry about ya know..
Sure miss his posts.....quite a void I must say.
Cool fix...looks good.....
just hope ol'Kentuck Ken skips this one....he could give one an "expletive deleted " well informed opinion regarding JB Weld...
It's his blood pressure we worry about ya know..
Sure miss his posts.....quite a void I must say.
Thanks Scott, Norm-
I guess I'm looking at a pita job where I have to do a lot of thinking. The main problem is the weight of the tiller; it's not an easy job just getting it on and off. I looked for wear and wallowed areas and found nothing I felt needed attention. I also know it required me to get things lined up pretty close before it mounted up. I also used proper sized pins (1/2"?) which if are undersized can cause slop.
As for the 1" dowel, I have a supply of 1" round stock so I'll just make one a little longer. I like the idea of getting a little more lift.
I guess I'm looking at a pita job where I have to do a lot of thinking. The main problem is the weight of the tiller; it's not an easy job just getting it on and off. I looked for wear and wallowed areas and found nothing I felt needed attention. I also know it required me to get things lined up pretty close before it mounted up. I also used proper sized pins (1/2"?) which if are undersized can cause slop.
As for the 1" dowel, I have a supply of 1" round stock so I'll just make one a little longer. I like the idea of getting a little more lift.
I got a chance to do some more work on the 129 today. Several weeks ago I replaced a bad camshaft and installed some new rings while I had it apart. In hindsight, I should have left the old rings alone, for when I fired it up it smoked badly, even after an extended run, though it ran decently until the plug fouled.
After thinking about it for a couple of weeks, I decided to pull the motor and check the rings. I found one ring was installed upside down, and corrected the mistake. After I got it back together, it smoked a little less, but I was having problems with the carburetor "leaning out" after a few minutes of running. This weekend, I resolved to take care of the stalling issue. I pulled and cleaned the carburetor, and installed new fuel line and one of those tiny fuel filters with the brass element. Thankfully the engine ran pretty good, though it still smoked a good bit cold. The smoking seemed to mostly clear up after about 20 minutes of periodically running it hard uphill to put a load on it. I would have gone longer, but one of the tire chains started flapping, so I had to cut it short.
Here is a picture of the fuel filter setup, I installed the filter so the outside of the element was on the upstream side of the fuel flow, I am pretty sure I am right, but I want to make sure. Sorry about the picture quality, the florescent lights take forever to come to full brightness in a cold garage.
After thinking about it for a couple of weeks, I decided to pull the motor and check the rings. I found one ring was installed upside down, and corrected the mistake. After I got it back together, it smoked a little less, but I was having problems with the carburetor "leaning out" after a few minutes of running. This weekend, I resolved to take care of the stalling issue. I pulled and cleaned the carburetor, and installed new fuel line and one of those tiny fuel filters with the brass element. Thankfully the engine ran pretty good, though it still smoked a good bit cold. The smoking seemed to mostly clear up after about 20 minutes of periodically running it hard uphill to put a load on it. I would have gone longer, but one of the tire chains started flapping, so I had to cut it short.
Here is a picture of the fuel filter setup, I installed the filter so the outside of the element was on the upstream side of the fuel flow, I am pretty sure I am right, but I want to make sure. Sorry about the picture quality, the florescent lights take forever to come to full brightness in a cold garage.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Paul L. --I hope you find a way to get your 1450 hydraulic lift arm working, keep us posted.
Any knowledgeable source --I'm having an issue with one of the mowing decks that I got with my 149: it turns out the deck was made for a narrow frame --the gauge wheels at the back hit the rear tires and there is 1/2" gap between the Mule Drive hangers and the spring-pins on the deck. I can post some pictures tomorrow, but I think this situation has been discussed before within the last few months.
I'm thinking my only option is to swap out the deck, can someone confirm that I'm stuck having to get a wide-frame deck for my wide-frame tractor, or do I have any other options?
Any knowledgeable source --I'm having an issue with one of the mowing decks that I got with my 149: it turns out the deck was made for a narrow frame --the gauge wheels at the back hit the rear tires and there is 1/2" gap between the Mule Drive hangers and the spring-pins on the deck. I can post some pictures tomorrow, but I think this situation has been discussed before within the last few months.
I'm thinking my only option is to swap out the deck, can someone confirm that I'm stuck having to get a wide-frame deck for my wide-frame tractor, or do I have any other options?
Jeremiah C.
Move the wheels to the inside.
Move the wheels to the inside.
Glen C.
They are called Sponsors!
I know at least 3 do.
They are called Sponsors!
I know at least 3 do.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
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- 1,842
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Thank you Charlie. To match the "outside" mounting, I would have to cut new square holes to mount the gauge wheels on the inside on my current 42" deck. To be honest, I'm more concerned about the attachment frame-to-deck fitment issues. The pin-mounts on the deck are a good inch wider than the bar-stock attachment frame; the pins still reach through the holes, but there is a lot of slop. I've examined all five of the mule drive / attachment frames in my collection, and although there are differences between them, they all seem to have been manufactured for wide-frame tractors.
Logically speaking, I need to either move the pin-mounts on the deck in (which I don't want to do), or move the attachment frame holes "out." Or start over.
I need to break out the camera and drag the 149 out from the back of the shed, drop the deck, pull out the various attachment frames and take some pictures.
At this point in time, I've already invested quite a bit of time and money in the current 42" deck. I wish I had tried installing it BEFORE I worked on it.
Logically speaking, I need to either move the pin-mounts on the deck in (which I don't want to do), or move the attachment frame holes "out." Or start over.
I need to break out the camera and drag the 149 out from the back of the shed, drop the deck, pull out the various attachment frames and take some pictures.
At this point in time, I've already invested quite a bit of time and money in the current 42" deck. I wish I had tried installing it BEFORE I worked on it.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeremiah-
Yeah, we need some pics. The deck should fit with the proper subframe, and the gauge wheels should clear. What size rear tires do you have?
Yeah, we need some pics. The deck should fit with the proper subframe, and the gauge wheels should clear. What size rear tires do you have?
Aiden D.
Marlin and Dennis, Thanks for your reply to my head gasket question. Today I ran it 30 min.,let it cool 3 hrs., and re-torqued to 30 ft.lb. Seems the re-torque - no re-torque / re-torque hot or cold debate is up there with great oil debate,gear drive vs. hrdro ...
BTW - the 420 in.lb.(35 ft.lb.) spec came from the Blue Ribbon Service Manual for the 1x6,1x7 tractors dated July, 1979.
BTW - the 420 in.lb.(35 ft.lb.) spec came from the Blue Ribbon Service Manual for the 1x6,1x7 tractors dated July, 1979.
