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Archive through December 02, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rrschmitt

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 23, 2005
Messages
798
displayname
Ron R. Schmitt
Charlie,
My 169 project has the factory manual lift due to the shortage of hydraulic values back in 74 when the 169's were introduced. I believe I will convert it to hydraulic during the restoration. The "flagholder" you asked about is the arm for the PTO linkage. The pipe elbow attached to the muffler was for an additional vertical muffler that a previous owner had installed at one time.

Tom H,
It came from the Mt. Vernon area in south central Illinois. The guy I bought it from has another 169 that he wanted to sell me too but the Mrs veto'd that idea.
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Bryan:

HA! smoked you out

Working at home? Right.

Let's see. . .watch Oprah in bed, up by 10am. Done with Breakfast by 11am. (Correspondence loaded as of last night and on Auto to make the boss think your working). Oil change on the 169 done by noon. . .life is good. . .Dash out to Big Boys for a Burger. . .back by 1 to work on the Simplicity. Shower, quick clean kitchen before Julie comes home. . .
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Oscar,
you mentioned that you had a Gear Vendors OD unit in your truck,How did/do you like it? Was it worth the extra cost?

Richard,
that is a neat looking hoist setup, is it welded at the top corners or bolted together? What is the most lbs that you feel safe in lifting with it?
 
Ron S,
Yea right after I made that dumba$$ post, I went down to the farm and looked at the two 169's I have just to make sure I had not totally lost my mind!
CRS ya know!
 
Jim Clayton
The hoist frame is welded top and bottom, just the top rail for the hoist and the casters are bolted on. The steel angle iron is 1/2 inch thick.

I don't know what the maximum weight I could lift, I purposely scaled it down so it would be easily moved around in the garage by one person and I wouldn't be tempted to try lifting full size tractors with it. It can lift a 782 with 50 inch mower deck without even trying. It sure makes removing mower decks a snap.

The thing I was more concerned with was that it not tip if you hooked on to something that didn't move and it got to pulling at an angle. I've did some experimenting and it has never tilted at all, it will pull itself to something before tipping.

I have a standard hydraulic engine hoist and I hate it for installing engines in tractors. Every time I would have the engine almost in and needed to drop it some I would have to try and turn around and lower the ram and then the engine or drive shaft would slip. Now with the electric hoist I can move the engine side to side, forward or back with one hand and adjust it up or down with the electric control in the other hand. Another thing I like is it stores easily, it rolls over a 5 foot table I use to store up to 3 engines on and I can set one engine down, slide the hoist over and pick up another engine. It basically takes up no floor space when not in use. Once I built it I never used the hydraulic engine hoist again.

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ahh life is good just got in from pushing a fresh 1.5" of crisp snow with the 582M before the city clowns clear the streets so they can push it over the boulevard and hit my sidewalk and have to come back and shovel it by hand as I'm standing in the garage with a cup of coffee in the am and the right things to move it. and to think that I got out before Charlie!! All that I have left for the am is some "clean up" rounds. There's something to be said about crisp snow rolling off of a blade.

(Message edited by hsimon on December 03, 2005)
 
Well it's December in Minnesota, it's saturday with not much to do with the temp hangin right around 16, so WHAT TO DO?
Head for an OUTSIDE freakin auction!
At least Hugh and Nick G. weren't there and Nick Q. was nice enough not to run me up on this sweepster! LOL
32692.jpg

It's even got near new brushes.
 
As winter fast approaches here in St. Louis Missouri, I have a question(s). I have traditional lawn style tire and chains for my 1250. I have a driveway with a slope and seem to spin the tires and chains when trying to back up the hill when removing snow. The chains do a little damage to the drivaeway surface. Would I do better with cleated tractor style tire? Will they get the same amount of taction but not do damage?
 
Paul K,
For one thing don't back up hill, UNLESS you have wheel weights on the back and then only if you have a bunch.
And since you didn't say if your were using a front blade, rear blade or a snow thrower, it's rather hard to tell you what exactly to do to help your situation.
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If you are using a snowthrower, you might find that it is actually easier to go up the hill with the snowthrower on the ground. Reason being is when you pick up that snowthrower, there is a lot of weight sit'in out there on the front of the tractor and it is getting transfered to the front, not the rear where you need it. A blade shouldn't be that bad because it is a lot lighter than the thrower. I have turf tires on my 129 and it spins sometimes. I think that i am going to fabricate a bracket on the back for some suitcase weights so i can take them on and off easily.
 
Paul,

The answer is "don't back up the hill". Chains on any tire maximize your winter traction, switching to ag tires over your turfs (given both are chained) will make no difference. Even ag tires are useless in the winter without chains.....some will say they get along fine on ags without chains, but in my experience NO CHAINS = NO GO.

Are your chains 2 link or 4 link spacing between the cross chains? 2 link provide the best traction.

The best answer to your problem is to plow down to the street, turn around and with a good running start drive back up empty, then plow down again. Steady and smooth starts and stops will get your chains the most traction without spinning them and causing scratches and keeping the momentum up helps too.
 
Had the 782 out this AM in our fresh -1" of snow. A little unecessary driveway cleaning was followed by some fun with the kids on the saucer sled behind the tractor. Steven III had a blast, but I need to put the sleeve hitch adapter back on, as the rope would catch on the tire chains during those fun "crack the whip" turns......the extra length behind the tires would make that problem go away.
 
I guess I figured that you guys have a ton of knowlegde on the Cubs and natually you would have an instant mental picture of my 1250 and the hill. For those who don't posses that ablitity let me further define. My Cub is a 1250 (with creep problems) and I have 100lbs. of wheel wights and a push blade for plowing snow. I just checked the chains, and the have 2 links between cross links. The driveway is cement with about a 20+- degree slope. It may be a situation that I just have to live with, I was just curious if ag tires worked better. NEW QUESTION: If I buy a help spring to help lift that darned blade, will anyone have a picture how it mounts?

Point of interest, the blade is actually from a Bolens, the guy that I bought if from here in St. Louis had made his own wide frame mount for it or modified one. Which ever, it works just fine. Also, he built his own leaf vacuum cart for the 1250. I sold the leaf vacuum to a guy on ebay who wanted the parts to make a pecan vacuum.
 
Paul K.-

100 lbs. probably isn't enough weight with a blade. When I had a blade on my 100 I only had about 100 lbs. and I was always spinning the tires. My 1450 has 200 lbs. on the back right now and did just fine with the blade. The 2-link chains are a great improvement, but you might have better luck with 23x8.5x12 tires instead of the 10.5's your 1250 probably has. As for pix of the helper spring mounting, I need to put one on my 128 one of these days and I can take some pictures along the way to help if you'd like.
 
Paul K.,
I have about 60# in each rear wheel and another 140 hanging on the back of my 106. My driveway cuts through a hill to the road with about a 35-40* grade on each side. I back up one side and push snow up and over the top on the other side. It was kind of scary the first time the front wheels came off the ground going up the hill but when I realized they would only go until the slack was out of the float on the lift rod, I just kept going. I tried to go with just ags on the back of my 1650 with a QA42A on the front. I thought because they were full of fluid and had 90# in each wheel I might be OK. I could usually go forward but when I tried to back up, I would just sit there and spin. It didn't take too long to put the chains on that year.

Weather guesser are calling for 3-5" tonight. We have a little over 2" on the ground now. I may get to try the rebuilt gearbox and smaller pulley set-up in the morning. I am looking forward to some seat time.
 
Thanks for all the help and the diagram. I am going to try to buy that helper spring for sure. Also, I am going to have fluid added to my rear tires for weight. I think that we are going to have a rough winter here in St. Louis. We have been dodged the bullet for a number of years, and we are due.
 

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