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Archive through August 21, 2015
- Thread starter jbaker
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Is there a point where a generator will stop charging when it gets too warm?
I was using the Cub over the weekend to drag the lane, and was at it for a couple of hours. Towards the end, I noticed the amp meter was showing a discharge which kind of concerned me. I stopped the Cub and checked the battery and other electrical connections, and they were fine. The SG was hot though. When I restarted the Cub, the SG was sluggish, so I am assuming the battery was a little low. I let everything cool down for a while and restarted the Cub and the amp gauge showed that it was charging again. It was still sluggish starting. It ran fine and wasn't having any other issues or lack of power.
Will the generator stop charging if it gets warm? It was warm enough that you could not hold onto it. It was spinning freely, so it does not appear to be a bearing issue. It appears to be an afermaket SG, that was on the Cub when I got it. I know there are no air vents or cooling fins on them to help cool them. Is this something that a person needs to look out for when running for extended periods in warm weather?
I was using the Cub over the weekend to drag the lane, and was at it for a couple of hours. Towards the end, I noticed the amp meter was showing a discharge which kind of concerned me. I stopped the Cub and checked the battery and other electrical connections, and they were fine. The SG was hot though. When I restarted the Cub, the SG was sluggish, so I am assuming the battery was a little low. I let everything cool down for a while and restarted the Cub and the amp gauge showed that it was charging again. It was still sluggish starting. It ran fine and wasn't having any other issues or lack of power.
Will the generator stop charging if it gets warm? It was warm enough that you could not hold onto it. It was spinning freely, so it does not appear to be a bearing issue. It appears to be an afermaket SG, that was on the Cub when I got it. I know there are no air vents or cooling fins on them to help cool them. Is this something that a person needs to look out for when running for extended periods in warm weather?
An alternative to the electrolysis is a soaking in feed grade molasses mixture. Don't laugh, it actually works.
A mixture of 1 part molasses to 8 parts water will remove rust from most parts. After mixing the molasses and water in a big container, let it sit and ferment for a couple of weeks. Make sure you have enough to completely submerge the parts, or you will get some nasty rust on anything that is poking out of the mixture. Throw in your rust parts and let them soak for a couple of weeks. You need to pressure wash them afterwards and you will have nice clean metal. It will not remove paint, but it will react to some other metals, such as aluminum and zinc. The parts will will flash rust very quickly after removing them from the molasses and washing them, so you will either need to dry them with heat and prime them ASAP, or treat them with a spray on rust inhibitor until you are ready to paint. Some people spray the parts down with WD-40 to preserve them until they are going to paint. I have been using this for a couple of years with good results.
A mixture of 1 part molasses to 8 parts water will remove rust from most parts. After mixing the molasses and water in a big container, let it sit and ferment for a couple of weeks. Make sure you have enough to completely submerge the parts, or you will get some nasty rust on anything that is poking out of the mixture. Throw in your rust parts and let them soak for a couple of weeks. You need to pressure wash them afterwards and you will have nice clean metal. It will not remove paint, but it will react to some other metals, such as aluminum and zinc. The parts will will flash rust very quickly after removing them from the molasses and washing them, so you will either need to dry them with heat and prime them ASAP, or treat them with a spray on rust inhibitor until you are ready to paint. Some people spray the parts down with WD-40 to preserve them until they are going to paint. I have been using this for a couple of years with good results.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Stephen M:
A couple of observations, not knowing how long you've had the Cubs.. One, normally, at low RPMs, the SG will not charge and the ammeter will show a discharge. Secondly, if you ran it for a couple of hours at high enough RPM for it to charge, and the battery seemed sluggish when you went to restart it, I'd suspect you've got a battery going bad, which will make the SG run hot trying to charge it. The battery should have been fully charged by then. Note it is normal for the Voltage regulator to drop out at low RPMs and the ammeter show a discharge.. Not charging at high RPMs, I'd first look at all the connections, including battery and VR grounds,and connections between the SG and the VR. I'd point more at the VR than the SG if there is a problem....
A couple of observations, not knowing how long you've had the Cubs.. One, normally, at low RPMs, the SG will not charge and the ammeter will show a discharge. Secondly, if you ran it for a couple of hours at high enough RPM for it to charge, and the battery seemed sluggish when you went to restart it, I'd suspect you've got a battery going bad, which will make the SG run hot trying to charge it. The battery should have been fully charged by then. Note it is normal for the Voltage regulator to drop out at low RPMs and the ammeter show a discharge.. Not charging at high RPMs, I'd first look at all the connections, including battery and VR grounds,and connections between the SG and the VR. I'd point more at the VR than the SG if there is a problem....
sharrington
Member
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2015
- Messages
- 9
- displayname
- Sean Harrington
thanks Kraig that is perfect!
mgwin
Well-known member
I think I will just stick with sandblasting.
When the sandblasting is done, the metal is clean and dry. Just wipe it off with a tack cloth and it's ready for primer! I don't have to worry about any residue possibly causing the primer or paint to turn loose after it has been painted.
I am not knocking anyone who uses any other method, just giving my two cents.
When the sandblasting is done, the metal is clean and dry. Just wipe it off with a tack cloth and it's ready for primer! I don't have to worry about any residue possibly causing the primer or paint to turn loose after it has been painted.
I am not knocking anyone who uses any other method, just giving my two cents.
