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Archive through August 19, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dmull

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
229
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D. Ryan Mull
Gary - If you have 3/4" spindles, any narrow wheel of a cub will work.

I put 3/4" spindles on my 1" 582 tractor to get tri-rib tires on it.
 
Sure glad you posted the Kroil link a couple weeks ago Charlie, I was out. A present from me came to me today...
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I believe that i fixed the steering wheel bushing on my 124 for now. I got the wheel off, and placed krazy glue, and some electrical tape, to retain the bushing for now. The wheel is now very tight, and has no serious play. The wheel is fixed for now. The tape you cant really see, so it looks fine. Thanks to all who helped me diagnose this issue.
 
How would a put in a light switch on my 124, and where would i hook the wires for power? I got a spare light kit out of my uncle's cub 104, and i got the lights and panel in now. Just where would i put a switch? THANKS!
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Tim Daugherty (Tdaugherty) on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 09:48 pm:

I believe that i fixed the steering wheel bushing on my 124 for now. I got the wheel off, and placed <u>krazy glue, and some electrical tape</u>, to retain the bushing for now. The wheel is now very tight, and has no serious play. The wheel is fixed for now. The tape you cant really see, so it looks fine.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Come on, Tim,,,,, are you REALLY going to call that a FIX ?!
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Maybe just until you can get the right parts?
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Ryan Wilke
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Tim - What ever it takes to get that grass cut. I'm glad the 124 is steering ok now. You might be surprised how long that fix will last. Electrical tape isn't far behind ole duct tape for a quick fix.
 
Ryan,
It's only a temporary fix. Im getting a new bushing, but this will let me drive it at least until i can get the bushing. This will hold the old bushing for a good while. it wont get exposed cause it sits in my garage. Always look for a quick fix.
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I know my repair sounds wrong but it will save the lower bearings from stress!
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Rick B,
Just be glad if those tires you bought aren't Carlisle ribs. Carlisle tires are junk!
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ok guys, went out to start the cub and all I got was a loud click... is it the starter generator? how do i test the solenoid? Generator is original. All I've ever done to it was take it apart and clean it out. Im pretty good with a wrench but electronics are not my thing.
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Tim, don't know what you got for parts sitting around but about ten years ago I used a front wheel bearing in place of the rubber bushing on my 72. Someone elses idea, but it works pretty slick. I never considered useing super glue and electrical tape to take the pressure off a bearing. pictures?
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Timothy, I've seen people put 12V directly to the starter with a jump pack before if the solenoid goes bad. If you have a test light just simply check that you have power going out of the solenoid when the key is on and when its turned to start. My experiance is that they don't click at all when they burn out. I also know that the starter generators like to burn one or two spots on the inside where the power flows through. Give it a half a turn and see if it works. Worth a shot. Most of the time its something simple that even I can figure out.
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And hey if I can figure it out I'm sure you can.
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Just be glad if those tires you bought aren't Carlisle ribs. Carlisle tires are junk!

Tim, you've had a bad experience with them? As I'm searching I'd like to hear of your experience.

Rick Beem, LOVE your profile pic! And thanks for the help. I think those tires would work good in the snow. Most of my trouble is the plow pushes the tractor sideways cause the stock ribs are just slicks. The price may be prohibitive though! Can I ask where you found them?
 
I got a 44" deck yesterday with the blade baffels missing. They are not available seperately. Will it cut without the baffles? Thanks
 
Dave G.,
I believe the deck baffles are supposed to cause the blades to produce a better suction to the grass, causing it to stand up more to allow a better and more complete cut. The baffle also aids in directing the clippings to exit out the discharge opening; otherwise, the clippings may NOT discharge to the side & may simply trail behind you in strips.....

Your best bet is to get some flat steel stock and make some by bending it over a pail or barrel then securing the strips to the deck via small angle attachments. Make the baffle only about 1.25" deep, (not as deep as the deck) and give your blades about 3/4" clearance beyond the blade tip.

Good Luck!
Ryan Wilke
 
David,

All the cutting is supposed to happen at the front (leading edge) of the deck. The baffles are all at the rear. So, I believe they are all about controlling the airflow and clippings to get them to discharge properly (and maybe get some recutting of the clippings). The factory baffles extend down to the same elevation as the cutting edge of the blade and are only about 1/4" outside of the blade tip. FWIW my $0.02.
 
David G., here's a photo of what the baffle should look like. I forget who's deck this is (it might also be a 50" deck.)
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In any case the baffle should look like this.

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RYAN - When I modified my 38" deck I made new baffles for it. I made them so they were about 1/8 in. above the cutting edges of the blades and spaced 1/8 in. from the tips of the blades. They seem to keep the grass trapped inside the area where the blades spin and really help keep the clippings moving out of the deck. I welded mine in but I agree someone without a welder could use pieces of small angle iron and bolt them in place. The OEM baffles were made from pretty thin steel also, My new ones were made from 1/8" thk steel.

Only time I leave any clippings behind the mower is when I'm mowing thick crabgrass about 6+ in. tall. Before I modified the deck it would windrow really bad and only throw clippings about 2 ft beyond the deck. After I made the changes most of the clippings land 3-4 ft from the deck and some land as far away as 5-6 ft. The deck only windrows now when I mow the tall weeds & grass on the roadbanks that I only mow 2-3 times a summer.
 
Tim T,

Check your battery. Generally a clicking solenoid means your battery needs an overnight charge or is getting weak and will soon need to be replaced.
 
This is my first time using this forum. I don't even know if this is the right place to ask my Question. I have purchased a Cadet 60 serial NO: 20191N and wqould like to know when it was manufactured. Can anyone help me out or tell me where to go to find out. Thanks.}
 

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