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Archive through August 06, 2012
- Thread starter bahrens
- Start date
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Just above these posts there's archives of past days posts. James MacDonald is fixing the exact same problem with his CC. He's included pic's of the parts needing attention. Look on the August 2nd & 3rd posts.
Just above these posts there's archives of past days posts. James MacDonald is fixing the exact same problem with his CC. He's included pic's of the parts needing attention. Look on the August 2nd & 3rd posts.
Been lurking for awhile, but not posting. About 1 1/2 years ago, I regrettably sold my original I restored to make room in the cub shed for a four wheeler. Still have the 149 and all the implements though. I have been looking at a forum for the four wheeler and just wanted to say how much this forum and the format we use is appreciated. This is easy to use, easy to search for things, easy to post. I've got alot of good info off of the four wheeler forum but you want to rip your hair out just to get anywhere. I know this issue has come up in the past and I hope this fourm will always stay this way. Maybe some of the other ones will get the hint. Thanks for all the help over the years. Nick
Hello everyone, I have a question I am not familiar with. I have located a 124 and it has several things missing from it. One is the front PTO clutch and also the bearing. My question is is the bearing pressed on? If it is can I do this myself? I am not sure the person that has it will part with it but it has two front flats and is also missing the mower deck. I think I can get a mower deck and I know I can get the PTO, the bearing is the question. Any help is appreciated.
proessler
Well-known member
Rodney goto Charlie's FAQ # 7 for some info...
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Hope to reinstall my model 70 shifter assembly tomorrow. I was thinking that I didn't need gasket cement on the gasket since the oil level is well below this point. Does that sound right?
wsdrake
Well-known member
After reading the "1NDune" posts over in the SandBox, i feel that as a newbie i should thank everyone for answering my questions, and being kind to me. I do my best to be an active part of the site, and like all of you, i share a great passion for these old Cubs. Again, many thanks to you all!
I look forward to many enjoyable years here. Later. Bill.
Replacing cross piece in universal on H42 thrower --
I have finally gotten the old family H42 (powered by the 782 I grew up with) sandblasted, bent the auger back straight, primed and a coat of 935 white (WHITE?, looks almond to me...) on the thrower. I am trying to replace the cross piece in the universal that is attached to the chain drive gear since that has quite a bit of slop in it. I think I've found a cross piece listed in one of the sponsor's ads, but upon really close inspection of the universal joint, I don't see the usual snap rings either on the outside where I expected them to be, or the funny inside ones, either. Question: Has anyone changed out the cross and bearing pieces on one of these old fellas? Does the pin just press out as if one were doing a regular joint and the retaining rings had been taken out? Since it is still hanging together and working (albeit sloppily and with some worry on my part as to when it might give way) I don't want to go whacking away at it and really ruin it just because I didn't know how to get the cross out.
Thanks for any hints one can give. If I've confused you I can try taking a picture of the thing that I'm talking about and draw arrows and stuff. I'm hoping the drought goes soon and we have some throwable snow at the appropriate time of year to try the old fella out on once again.
I have finally gotten the old family H42 (powered by the 782 I grew up with) sandblasted, bent the auger back straight, primed and a coat of 935 white (WHITE?, looks almond to me...) on the thrower. I am trying to replace the cross piece in the universal that is attached to the chain drive gear since that has quite a bit of slop in it. I think I've found a cross piece listed in one of the sponsor's ads, but upon really close inspection of the universal joint, I don't see the usual snap rings either on the outside where I expected them to be, or the funny inside ones, either. Question: Has anyone changed out the cross and bearing pieces on one of these old fellas? Does the pin just press out as if one were doing a regular joint and the retaining rings had been taken out? Since it is still hanging together and working (albeit sloppily and with some worry on my part as to when it might give way) I don't want to go whacking away at it and really ruin it just because I didn't know how to get the cross out.
Thanks for any hints one can give. If I've confused you I can try taking a picture of the thing that I'm talking about and draw arrows and stuff. I'm hoping the drought goes soon and we have some throwable snow at the appropriate time of year to try the old fella out on once again.
Thanks for the help on the shifter. I didn't realize that mine was the same style. I was told to remove spring and it'll pull out. Well mine looks like the one pictured with a broken cup off to the welder. Once again thanks for the help this forums great.
A question to guys who sand blast cub parts. I found a good deal on a 7.5 hp twin cylinder compressor with a 60 gallon tank 10.5 135 psi.My other compressor is a 6.5 hp an the 60 gallon tank also 7.5 125 psi. My sand blaster uses so much air that with my old compressor I would have to stop to let it build some pressure. so now I have a newer model wired in 220 and I`am thinking of using both running and feed the air to one line to the sand blaster.I`am hoping that I can sand blast a little long using from both 60 gallon tanks . Will two connected together to one air line make the sand blaster bast more parts ? My old compressor is for sale local and I want to give this a try before it sells.I`am hoping for a cool day so I can get my 1961 Original finished stripping paint and ready for paint this fall.
Donald Tanner,
You will have more volume to blast more parts. If you are looking for better recovery time you may want to utilize both compressors, assuming you have an adequate enough service to run both. Try to have the pressure switches set far enough apart so that the second kicks in well after the first. For example, have the new one kick in at 90psi, and the older one at 85psi, giving the new motor time to pass starting current draw.
Good luck!
You will have more volume to blast more parts. If you are looking for better recovery time you may want to utilize both compressors, assuming you have an adequate enough service to run both. Try to have the pressure switches set far enough apart so that the second kicks in well after the first. For example, have the new one kick in at 90psi, and the older one at 85psi, giving the new motor time to pass starting current draw.
Good luck!
Don T.
There's a huge amount of info in the machine shop on compressors.
There's a huge amount of info in the machine shop on compressors.
Jeff B.
I can help ya out on one of your request.
I can help ya out on one of your request.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Despite trying for the grump of the day award, today was actually a good Cub day.... About three years ago, a good friend called me to brag about a hundred dollar deal - a running 149, mower deck, push blade and '42 thrower... I immediately started whining and begging - he wasn't into Cubs and I've b!tched at the original owner of my 129 for not getting a 149 with hydraulics since I bought it from him in '85. For a Benjamin and a finders fee, it got unloaded in my yard with all the extras. I immediately nicknamed it "the Smoker", as it ran but was a good candidate for mosquito patrol in the neighborhood. Also, (uhhh, unlike my 129??) it had been victim to a DIYer with apparently no knowledge of the location of our local Cub dealers.. The crank pulley for the S/G had a cracked hub that'd been shimmed with OJ can shim stock, the rear end was weighted with about 4 Ford truck front brake disks, the S/G voltage regulator is hung off the gas tank, and it had a driveshaft made of clamp style low speed (read unbalanced) U-joints with a piece of cold roll in between.
Fast forward through my past couple of years and the Cub itch needs scratching - the 129 doesn't satisfy that, since it just keeps running and running and running... The biggest concern I've had was what condition the shaft on the 149 ported hydro pump was in, since there was a lot of cobbling on that driveshaft, as elsewhere ( this 149 has had the brakes modded for Ford 8N style individual rear brakes...). Tonight, in a unusual burst of energy, I pulled the clamp bolts on the u-joints, then took my trusty DeWalt recip saw with a new blade and cut the cold roll in half. I held my breath while removing the rear u-joint and - oh crap, the shaft looks like its been welded on, hammered and filed flat on one side (for the "D" drive hole on the U-joint). I was about ready to pack it in again, when I got out a flash light and looked closer: what the h... there's a roll pin ground off flush - then I realized that there was a bushing over the original 5/8ths" pump shaft size to bring it out to the 3/4" for the U-joint. I drove the roll (not a real Spirol, BTW) out and with a little work got the bushing to slide off the pump shaft. Great news - the pump shaft is pristine!
So now, the great question - do I use this 149 as a donor and move the hydraulics over to the 129 or do I really need two Cubs in my barn (and no, the 129 will never leave - not after 27 years of faithful service..) I've checked into rebuilding the K-321 and have a local guy with a good reputation - a wiring harness from Charlie and an axle/steering rebuild and the 149 would be another worker. I suspect though,that with my intentions of living the "endless summer" lifestyle now, having two Cubs setting here in Michigan for 5 or 6 months of the year would be a waste - hmm -I could be the only guy in our park in FL with a Cub - or any tractor..... Hmmmmm.
Fast forward through my past couple of years and the Cub itch needs scratching - the 129 doesn't satisfy that, since it just keeps running and running and running... The biggest concern I've had was what condition the shaft on the 149 ported hydro pump was in, since there was a lot of cobbling on that driveshaft, as elsewhere ( this 149 has had the brakes modded for Ford 8N style individual rear brakes...). Tonight, in a unusual burst of energy, I pulled the clamp bolts on the u-joints, then took my trusty DeWalt recip saw with a new blade and cut the cold roll in half. I held my breath while removing the rear u-joint and - oh crap, the shaft looks like its been welded on, hammered and filed flat on one side (for the "D" drive hole on the U-joint). I was about ready to pack it in again, when I got out a flash light and looked closer: what the h... there's a roll pin ground off flush - then I realized that there was a bushing over the original 5/8ths" pump shaft size to bring it out to the 3/4" for the U-joint. I drove the roll (not a real Spirol, BTW) out and with a little work got the bushing to slide off the pump shaft. Great news - the pump shaft is pristine!
So now, the great question - do I use this 149 as a donor and move the hydraulics over to the 129 or do I really need two Cubs in my barn (and no, the 129 will never leave - not after 27 years of faithful service..) I've checked into rebuilding the K-321 and have a local guy with a good reputation - a wiring harness from Charlie and an axle/steering rebuild and the 149 would be another worker. I suspect though,that with my intentions of living the "endless summer" lifestyle now, having two Cubs setting here in Michigan for 5 or 6 months of the year would be a waste - hmm -I could be the only guy in our park in FL with a Cub - or any tractor..... Hmmmmm.
Gerry I.
It was one of those deals many years ago I couldn't pass up. LOL
It was one of those deals many years ago I couldn't pass up. LOL
Joe Grabner
Thanks for that info. I have a 4 ft air dryer I bought a few years ago and I have 100 amp service to my shop with it`s own breaker panel fed by a under ground line in 4" pipe from my house. I will wire them both to there own breakers and give that idea a try.
Charlie "Digger" Proctor
Thanks for that also, I did have a look There and that led me for a long read.The new to me twin cylinder compressor is so much quieter than my old unit and seems to recover to 135 lbs so much faster.
Thanks for that info. I have a 4 ft air dryer I bought a few years ago and I have 100 amp service to my shop with it`s own breaker panel fed by a under ground line in 4" pipe from my house. I will wire them both to there own breakers and give that idea a try.
Charlie "Digger" Proctor
Thanks for that also, I did have a look There and that led me for a long read.The new to me twin cylinder compressor is so much quieter than my old unit and seems to recover to 135 lbs so much faster.
