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T

tjanssen

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
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trent janssen
Brad B
cut out old using 1 1/4" holesaw on the backside of the spindle. welded in new 1" trailer axle stub from TSC 90 degrees off spindle frame making sure ther is enough room between hub and spindle. then reset the toe-in alingment. you need to cut down the new axle stub so it wont interfere with the front axle beam when turning. this mod tightens up steering alot!
 
Would anyone have faith in welding that cracked block???? Ken Should be able to fix it as well as a few others better with cast than I am. Not much to lose!
 
huh...speakin of that old grump, who scared him off ?

Had a blast with the 73 yesterday, hooked 3 wagons together and went for a ride in the woods. We stopped by the creek for a bit and found a spot that would be a perfect spot for a ramp. Took the wagons back to the shed and put the blade on and went back to the creek and cut a ramp into the bank, one step closer to getting to the back hill. I really have to quiet that thing down.
 
Trent, could you post pictures of the backside(of the spindle)?
Thanks
 
Thanks for the help with the speeding up on 125, I must of over looked it in FAQ sorry
 
Would anyone have faith in welding that cracked block????

Jerry, I've been mulling it over a bit and I think I would have a go with it. Hardest part I think would be getting it hot enough EVENLY to de-stress the repaired area. I've welded Mack engines with high nickel rod after they crack at the transmission mount. Take your time, careful to grind the area clean, open the crack a bit, drill the end(s), and be patient to keep the heat even all the time is the hardest for me! With short skip welds and then de-stress I would go for it. My .02 cents.

huh...speakin of that old grump, who scared him off ? - I think we're doing it wrong! Ken, stay away.. We don't really miss you! Ken, wanna buy a lathe close to Boston?

Brendan, I've been hatching a scheme to create a exhaust pipe just like you envision too. I was thinking it would pass under the left rear axle tube. Like you I'd like to quiet my 73 just a bit.
 
Does anyone have a copy of Steve Blunier's template to make a notched plow coulter? I sent him an email but I really need it today if possible. I'm sure I saved it at one time, but now I can't find the CD I put it on :-(

Kraig? Charlie? Anyone?

Thanks
 
For those considering welding cast iron, you might take a look at this. It CAN be done, but again, in this case the crack already extends into the combustion chamber, welding WILL distort a machined surface that has to seal several hundred PSI under running conditions and when the engine is run will go through expansion and contraction, affecting the welded area. Now, if it was an aluminum block (and was resurfaced after welding....)

BTW - there are links at the bottom of the first page, to fully understand the issues, you need to read all of it..
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Could anyone point me in the right direction to get decals? I'm helping my friend restore his 102, and he needs some odd-ball decals like: hi-lo, engine decals, and the IH that goes on the back panel. He bought decals from the dealer and the kit did not come with them. Thanks, Jon
 
Jonathan,
Click on any one of the sponsor boxes above... more than one of them has the decals....
 
Todd M,
I searched the Vault for "Coulter" and "Notched" and found an April 09, 2004 post with this diagram:
150161.jpg

There may be more elsewhere in the Vault
 
Kraig, Scott,
I forgot to mention that I had already searched the archives and found all those photos.

Steve had done a drawing on a CAD program that could be printed out full size and used as a template for cutting the notches. That is what I'm after.
 
I received my latest cubs this past weekend. I bought them by looking at some pictures. I thought I could make 1 out of 2 but I am not so sure. Right now I have oil soaking on top of the piston to try to get it loose. They cut up both wiring harnesses. Oh well, the price was still right,
150164.jpg

150165.jpg
 
Hey Guys I am still looking for the diagrams or pictures on how to put the belt on my 109 to run the mower deck any help would be great thanks.
 
Mike...I have most of the pieces to get it put together, 1.25 headers from a VW, just lacking a muffler. When I worked in an exhaust fab shop we had real small mufflers for RV generators but I need to get measurements yet, I will only have about 3.5 inches width to work with unless I space the rims out. Also thinking about a used aftermarket atv muffler as they are slim enough. The only thing slowing me down is my mig is on the fritz...again..and I'm out of oxygen for my torch.
This is the basic idea
150168.jpg
 
Here's how the belt routes, note the mower deck and tractor have been removed for clarity. Top photo would be for a 38" or 42" deck. Bottom photo would be for a 44" or 50" deck.

150170.jpg


150171.jpg
 
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<font size="-2">(....tractor has been removed for clarity...) Really? WOW. </font> Should we tell him the 'clutch pully' is on the invisible engine?
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<font size="-2">Sorry Kraig, couldnt pass that one up. A.</font>
 

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