RYAN - Depending on what You use for solvent you have to be careful with what You use for a pump.
My well pressure tank started rusting out and the internal bladder was broken about 15 yrs ago. I cut the steel ring stand off the bottom of the pressure tank, flipped the tank upside-down and rewelded the ring on. I used some 11 guage steel & angle iron to make the top, about 36" wide, by about 18-20", and 6 inches deep. Also has a hinged steel top, VERY Important!
The 110V submersible pump came from Northern Tool, about $50, and the parts washer brush with the flow-thru solvent was about $10, good investment. The pump is wired to a switch that is electrically separated from the pump, no chance of elec. shock. Used kitchen sink components would be better than washing parts in a pan of gasoline (what I did before building the washer) but I suggest You look at a real parts washer and try to include as many safety features if not ALL the features of a real parts washer. UL, EPA, OSHA, etc require those features for a reason. Also the rubber used for potable water for kitchen sinks will not hold up to petroleum solvents/distilates.
You have flamibilty issues as well as electrical shock issues, also a good idea to keep everything, plumbing, solvent, fumes, etc INSIDE the tank and wash basin. If anything in the washer should spark it could set Your solvent on fire so You should have a fusable link on the lid so it closes to contain the fire inside the washer and hopefully extinguish the fire.
I charge my washer with 5 gal. of kerosene and a gallon of GUNK degreaser. I've actually used it a LOT and have only cleaned out the crud that settles in the bottom of the tank once.
There are water soluable detergents available now but from what I've heard they are expensive and don't work real well and the clean parts tend to flash rust after cleaning. Mineral spirits is also good I've heard.
If Your just working on small stuff like Kohlers I'd get the bench-top washer from Northern.