782D running at 3/4 temp gauge NO FAN

[jknight]

Really need help locating new parts for the cooling system on my 782D. PO removed all the components for the original fan. Removed the radiator fan shroud. Then installed an electric fan pinned to the radiator. I would like to restore to the original configuration. As this did not solve the temp problem. I need the complete fan assembly and mounts with adjuster and pulley. Brace for the muffler. And the fan shroud itself.

 

[digger]

Joe K.
So for your first post you decide to break the rules and place a Want Ad where it doesn't belong!

I guess the sponsor buttons above and the Classifieds didn't catch your eye!

 

[brhodes]

Joe,
Click on topics
then click on
"IH Cub Cadet Classifieds"

I think a lot of guys look there for used parts to buy or sell.
If your looking for new, I have not bought from any of the listed sponsors yet (I'm new to this forum) but I get the impression they all support both this site and other Cub owners. I would trust them.

 

[jknight]

Sorry about the posting in the wrong place. I have tried all of the sponsors. So far none have any of the parts that are needed. Except for the fan blade. It was my hope that some one could give me some advice on the running at 3/4 mark. Has new water pump and a new thermostat. That is all the PO did. The rad tested with infra red thermometer shows all the tubes read within one another. From this I do not think it is plugged? The hot spot is at the top outlet. 200 degrees the rest of the rad is 180 degrees. Has new sending unit for the gauge.
I appologize for the first post in the wrong place just looking for help.
Joe

 

[dtanner]

joe knight

Well from using my 1512 Diesel I can say that they don`t like to be run and used much under 3600 rpm`s . I do use mine under that and when the tractor gauge goes up towards 3/4 ,I find a short run at wot will bring the temp down fast. I don`t know how your using your diesel so I can`t help . There was a posting here someplace for a type of anti freeze that makes a big difference in cooling , you might want to change to that type and see what you get for temps. A picture would tell what you have had removed by the po.I for one wold like to see what the electric fan looks like and how its operated (activated). please post some more info please. Later Don T

 

[mgonitzke]

Is the insulation intact on the upper radiator hose? If not, it will run hot. Also, if you haven't flushed the cooling system and refilled with new antifreeze, I'd try that, too. Perhaps there's some crap in the block somewhere. Is the outside of the radiator clean? That will also make a huge difference.

 

[jknight]

Update. Pulled the hoses and drain out of the rad. Cannot get water to flow out of the block drain. Cannot remove it for the engine mounting plate. Thermostat has been cut off and only the top part left in place. Ran water from garden hose backwards thru the rad and block. Reinstalled the top of the thermostat so it would have correct flow. Installed new antifreeze 1/2 and 1/2. Ran the tractor with out the fan on. It is wired to a toggle swith. At this time and just with flush and fill it ran between 1/2 gauge and the 3/4 mark. It is 65 degrees out. With the fan on it ran at the 1/2 mark. Will try a heating service store for the insulation for the top rad hose. Still would like to put it to original. As the outside three tubes in the rad run at 170 degrees now and the ones covered by the fan run at 145 degrees. What is the pipe elbow and plug on the diesel pump??? Thank you all for the response. Joe

 

[jknight]

This dummy is having a bad time uploading photo's. [email protected]
fan\

 

[jknight]

 

[mgonitzke]

I think that pipe elbow is a PO mod...mine doesn't have that. BTW, another thing that would help the electric fan out until you get the OEM stuff is a shroud. The way it is right now, you're only pulling air through about 70% of the radiator. With a proper shroud it'll create air movement through the whole thing and probably cool just fine.

 

[digger]

Matt G.
Those radiators are notorious for blockages!
The first thing I would do would be take it to a radiator shop and get it cleaned out.
I have no insulation on my upper hose and never have had and I don't have a problem with over heating.
Now if it's hot outside (which happens VERY SELDOM up here) and I let it set an idle, it will get warm.
But when i open it up to half throttle or more, it cools right down.

 

[dtanner]

joe knight

The pipe elbow is a PO mod. that is the location of the block drain on my tractor. I don`t have the cover on my top rad hose now,it was mla when I bought the tractor.I don`t have an issue with overheating ,I did take the rad to a local rad shop and they flushed it and got some crap out of it I could not get with just water house pressure.I have never seen over the 3/4 mark for temps.Blowing snow this winter it went to 1/2 and that was it working .You are missing a lot of parts.Good luck , they do sip fuel and run nice. Later Don T

 

[mgonitzke]

Charlie-

I have never had a problem with overheating either after I flushed the radiator...I can mow in 90 degree weather and have the needle only come barely past halfway as long as I keep the grass screen clean, which is hard to do in the summer because it clogs with bugs. The only time I had an issue with it getting overly warm was at a plow day in August a couple years ago when it was in the lower 90's and I was pulling a plow with it.

 

[proessler]

My 2 cents...CC Service Bulletin Code # 096 lists std 12.8 psi radiator cap with 50/50 mix gives -35* to 262* protection. Also Service Kit 759-3236 Code # 042 Diesel Heat kit Adds heat shield in area of battery, foam around underside of hood above top & sides of radiator . Also cutting 1/2" slots into side panels at lower front of>>>>> oops!! Kraig/ Charlie U can delete...

 

[proessler]

My 2 cents...CC Service Bulletin Code # 096 lists std 12.8 psi radiator cap with 50/50 mix gives -35* to 262* protection. Also Service Kit 759-3236 Code # 042 Diesel Heat kit Adds heat shield in area of battery, foam around underside of hood above top & sides of radiator . Also cutting 1/2" slots into side panels at bottom front bulgeout of left (6 1/2" long) & right (3 1/2" long) .

 

[jknight]

A little headway today. Installed foam shield on the top radiator hose. Used a foam cover for a 1 1/2" black pipe. Fits great over the hose and is one piece. Fold the foam in half and it will seal the sides of the radiator. 80 degrees today and running around with the side panels on the gauge went between 1/2 and 3/4. Now waiting for the termostat to get here. Still want to get it to at least half way tops.

Photo's were taken at PO's garage. Still want to get it to run at 1/2. Joe

 

[jknight]

Checked the cap for the radiator. It is the .9 Bar cap. Thank you for all the advice the forum has suggested. .9 Bar should be the 12.78 cap. Still trying. Here what I found for the thermostat. Joe

 

[tmarkle]

I used a product called Purple Ice made by Royal Purple in my 882 and it seemed to make it run a bit cooler. There are other similar products from other companies out there too. I think my radiator may be partially blocked. It looks like the fan bearings went out and one time and the fan damaged the radiator. So I suspect a healthy dose of stop leak was used to make it hold coolant. I flushed it one time but I'm afraid if I take it to a shop they will say it needs a new core.

From the temps you are giving it doesn't sound like you are running overly hot. Most modern engines run right around 200 and use a 195 thermostat. On my pulling tractor I have the electric fan set to kick on at 205-215 and then turn back off around 180.

 

[jknight]

Picked up the new thermostat today. But will have to wait to try it out. Have the drive shaft out. Needs new disc's and bushing's. Have the steering column out and waiting for parts. Spent a couple of hours straightening out the fins in the radiator. Here is the old thermostat photo.

 

[jknight]

Just a note to thank Charlie from CCSpecialties for all the help on ordering parts. Joe