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Milling Machines
- Thread starter jegstad
- Start date
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Lesseee... order by midnight and I'll send 'ya a free copy of misprinted student guides for the WMATA 2k3k rehab'd subway car... but wait, that's not all! I'll also throw in two airline ticket stubs, an empty Coca-Cola can (Christmas issue, with Kenny's picture on it!) and a wrapper from the sandwich I got from Panera Bread! Act now- Supplies are limited!
And just to put icing on the deal, here's a snapshot of diagram for the all-relay-logic controller shown in previous pictures:
And just to put icing on the deal, here's a snapshot of diagram for the all-relay-logic controller shown in previous pictures:
Well, the Rockwell mill is home and laying in pieces on the basement floor. Tuesday we drove to Milwaukee to get it (in an IH DT4xx-powered rental truck). Since my son bid sight unseen on the mill we wondered what we would find. Everything was there in good used condition and all axis were very smooth from end to end with almost undetectable backlash on the handwheels. It makes the HF floor models seem like a total waste of money - and this was a lot cheaper to buy.
We used a truck with a liftgate and the floor was high enough to match the loading dock so the pickup was easy using a fork lift. At home we took it apart in the truck in order to lighten it up and so we could move it off by hand. We off loaded onto my small trailer and then into the basement by the walk-out entry. So now it's ready for a good cleanup, reassembly, and aligning.
It has two motors. The horizonatal one is twice the rating of the verticle and has a plain jane frame style. So the horizontal motor will become the rotary converter for the vertical 3-phase. I have a single phase motor of the same hp as the horizontal and it is almost a drop-in to replace it. It even was made by the same mfr. All it needs is a bushing to adapt the Rockwell pulley.
I'll take some pictures as we clean it up, put it back together, and start learning to use it.
Jim Egstad
We used a truck with a liftgate and the floor was high enough to match the loading dock so the pickup was easy using a fork lift. At home we took it apart in the truck in order to lighten it up and so we could move it off by hand. We off loaded onto my small trailer and then into the basement by the walk-out entry. So now it's ready for a good cleanup, reassembly, and aligning.
It has two motors. The horizonatal one is twice the rating of the verticle and has a plain jane frame style. So the horizontal motor will become the rotary converter for the vertical 3-phase. I have a single phase motor of the same hp as the horizontal and it is almost a drop-in to replace it. It even was made by the same mfr. All it needs is a bushing to adapt the Rockwell pulley.
I'll take some pictures as we clean it up, put it back together, and start learning to use it.
Jim Egstad
Congrats on the Rockwell, Jim!
Workin' on the final drawings for my relay-logic RPC... I've been running it the last few days, and it's been workin' like a champ... way overkill for the Bridgeport, but then again, I was building it primarily for the Monarch!
Workin' on the final drawings for my relay-logic RPC... I've been running it the last few days, and it's been workin' like a champ... way overkill for the Bridgeport, but then again, I was building it primarily for the Monarch!
I've got a question on milling machine tooling since I am starting from scratch.
My verticle head has R8 taper and I have been looking at R8 collets for end mills. These hold the end mill by pure friction on the shank. There also are R8 end mill holders that have one or two set screws that hold by tightening onto the flat ground into the side of the end mill.
Are there any preferences on these? I was thinking of the collets for smaller shanks and the set screw type for the larger ones.
Ebay seems to have a lot of this stuff, does anyone have other sources to recommend?
I am getting ready to put power to my rotary converter, hopefully sometime this week. Then I need to finish cleaning and reassembling the mill.
My verticle head has R8 taper and I have been looking at R8 collets for end mills. These hold the end mill by pure friction on the shank. There also are R8 end mill holders that have one or two set screws that hold by tightening onto the flat ground into the side of the end mill.
Are there any preferences on these? I was thinking of the collets for smaller shanks and the set screw type for the larger ones.
Ebay seems to have a lot of this stuff, does anyone have other sources to recommend?
I am getting ready to put power to my rotary converter, hopefully sometime this week. Then I need to finish cleaning and reassembling the mill.
Jim,
On the R-8 collets and endmill holders, there is also a keyway. This will line up with a small pin in the spindle.( if it's similar to a Bridgeport mill ) Sometimes this pin will wear down and make insertion or removal of the collet difficult. ( it will bind )
At work , I use collets for light duty work and the set screw endmill holders for heavier work.
To remove the collet/holder after use, loosen the drawbar 1 or 2 turns and give it a sharp smack with a brass /soft hammer. This will loosen it without smashing the threads.
One of the tool suppliers we use at work is MSC Supplies. www.mscdirect.com They have many different qualities of tooling, from inexpensive to "top shelf".
Jeff
On the R-8 collets and endmill holders, there is also a keyway. This will line up with a small pin in the spindle.( if it's similar to a Bridgeport mill ) Sometimes this pin will wear down and make insertion or removal of the collet difficult. ( it will bind )
At work , I use collets for light duty work and the set screw endmill holders for heavier work.
To remove the collet/holder after use, loosen the drawbar 1 or 2 turns and give it a sharp smack with a brass /soft hammer. This will loosen it without smashing the threads.
One of the tool suppliers we use at work is MSC Supplies. www.mscdirect.com They have many different qualities of tooling, from inexpensive to "top shelf".
Hi Jim!
That flat you're referring to is a 'Weldon' flat. If you're using an R8 collet to hold the end-mill, the only thing holding the tool to collet, is the collet's fitment and friction. Unless you're really hoggin' heck out of something, you'll likely not overcome the collet, in which case, you'd rather spin the end-mill in the collet, than spin the collet in the spindle. If you use an end-mill holder, the end-mill SHOULD fit the holder's ID very tight (Without the set screw) and the set-screw just holds it in place. If the fit is loose, the set-screw will drive the mill off-center, and it won't turn a concentric cut with the axis of the spindle. I haven't had anyone tell me so, but all the good machinists I've been around use R8 collets holding the mills... and I suspect there's a universal reason... perhaps it's just economy?
In addition to Jeff's suggestion, Travers.com is a good source. Smaller tooling (M2, as well as some R8 and MT3) can be had from www.littlemachineshop.com and www.use-enco.com. So far, it appears that Enco keeps the lowest prices on both imported and domestically-manufactured tooling. As well as carrying the imported stuff, Travers and MSC have high-zoot stuff.
Today, I ordered a Phase II toolpost in BXA for the Monarch, a set of 13 R-18 collets, a collet holder, and a bed clamp-kit for the Bridgeport... my hope is that the stuff is enough for me to get the machines running and tooled-up enough to be functional, so I can get the other odds-and-ends done. Like a dummy, I found a new home for my little Atlas before having these machines functioning. (Duhp!)
Next on the list- boring bars, a boring head and R8 arbor, a fly-cutter or three, an MT2 tang with drill chuck (for lathe and M-head drilling), some MT2 drawbar collets for the M-head, and something else that I'm having trouble remembering right now...
(Message edited by dkamp on February 01, 2005)
That flat you're referring to is a 'Weldon' flat. If you're using an R8 collet to hold the end-mill, the only thing holding the tool to collet, is the collet's fitment and friction. Unless you're really hoggin' heck out of something, you'll likely not overcome the collet, in which case, you'd rather spin the end-mill in the collet, than spin the collet in the spindle. If you use an end-mill holder, the end-mill SHOULD fit the holder's ID very tight (Without the set screw) and the set-screw just holds it in place. If the fit is loose, the set-screw will drive the mill off-center, and it won't turn a concentric cut with the axis of the spindle. I haven't had anyone tell me so, but all the good machinists I've been around use R8 collets holding the mills... and I suspect there's a universal reason... perhaps it's just economy?
In addition to Jeff's suggestion, Travers.com is a good source. Smaller tooling (M2, as well as some R8 and MT3) can be had from www.littlemachineshop.com and www.use-enco.com. So far, it appears that Enco keeps the lowest prices on both imported and domestically-manufactured tooling. As well as carrying the imported stuff, Travers and MSC have high-zoot stuff.
Today, I ordered a Phase II toolpost in BXA for the Monarch, a set of 13 R-18 collets, a collet holder, and a bed clamp-kit for the Bridgeport... my hope is that the stuff is enough for me to get the machines running and tooled-up enough to be functional, so I can get the other odds-and-ends done. Like a dummy, I found a new home for my little Atlas before having these machines functioning. (Duhp!)
Next on the list- boring bars, a boring head and R8 arbor, a fly-cutter or three, an MT2 tang with drill chuck (for lathe and M-head drilling), some MT2 drawbar collets for the M-head, and something else that I'm having trouble remembering right now...
(Message edited by dkamp on February 01, 2005)
Thanks Jeff & Dave,
I think I'll get the collets first and tighten correctly. I have a neighbor with a machining business and he offered his metal scrap and used tool pile anytime. I can score some tooling for just the cost of sharpening. The list goes on and on. Waiting on UPS to get my electriacl boxes before startup.
I think I'll get the collets first and tighten correctly. I have a neighbor with a machining business and he offered his metal scrap and used tool pile anytime. I can score some tooling for just the cost of sharpening. The list goes on and on. Waiting on UPS to get my electriacl boxes before startup.
On that link to Enco that Dave posted-
FWIW I've had awful luck with Enco's drill bits, I've gone back to buying my bits through McMaster, the TiN 135° bits. Enco has some nice stuff, don't get me wrong, but LOTS of stuff from China.
FWIW I've had awful luck with Enco's drill bits, I've gone back to buying my bits through McMaster, the TiN 135° bits. Enco has some nice stuff, don't get me wrong, but LOTS of stuff from China.
And I'll second Wyatt's observation on bits. Given a need to buy bits for serious metalworking, I tend to spend deep-pocket cash on industrial-grade stuff.
I'll admit- I've got a couple'a boxes of Harbor-Freight grade bits... they spin crooked, bore goofy holes, and break when you least expect, but they're disposable.
Same goes for end-mills... if you buy a box of imported end-mills, and compare 'em to say... one made by M.A. Ford Company, you'll notice a substantial difference in cut power and precision... the imported cutter will either break, or tear up the workpiece really nasty... oftentimes, it'll do both at the same time.
I'll admit- I've got a couple'a boxes of Harbor-Freight grade bits... they spin crooked, bore goofy holes, and break when you least expect, but they're disposable.
Same goes for end-mills... if you buy a box of imported end-mills, and compare 'em to say... one made by M.A. Ford Company, you'll notice a substantial difference in cut power and precision... the imported cutter will either break, or tear up the workpiece really nasty... oftentimes, it'll do both at the same time.
With tooling, you get what you pay for. Drills, Cleveland is awesome, Union Butterfield is fine, cheap is cheap.
Same goes for end mills, reamers, counterbores & countersinks, carbide inserts.
Face mills, the Iscars with the octagon inserts are nice, except for shoulder work, Ingersolls last forever.
Buy good tooling, watch your speeds & feeds, and it will last a long time. The cost only hurts for a bit.
Same goes for end mills, reamers, counterbores & countersinks, carbide inserts.
Face mills, the Iscars with the octagon inserts are nice, except for shoulder work, Ingersolls last forever.
Buy good tooling, watch your speeds & feeds, and it will last a long time. The cost only hurts for a bit.
One thing to look out for...
There's a new 'company' existing under a 'familiar' name... Cincinnati...
Where one would expect to see machines like the 'Milacron', there's now a company selling machines under the Cinci name, but they're imported Chinese stuff. I've seen pictures of the grinders, and they did try to use the previous company's 'look'. Don't be fooled.
There's a new 'company' existing under a 'familiar' name... Cincinnati...
Where one would expect to see machines like the 'Milacron', there's now a company selling machines under the Cinci name, but they're imported Chinese stuff. I've seen pictures of the grinders, and they did try to use the previous company's 'look'. Don't be fooled.
A friend of mine bought an old horizontal mill I passed up a couple years ago. It's not got a name on it but I seen a Valley Machine Works mill on ebay that looks identical to it. Anyway if you're running flat belts or rebuilding something like we are and need a new flat belt get the measurement and go find a serpentine belt at the autoparts store , they work great !
anyone have a schematic for a old 3uh summit horz. milling machine ser #3262 Just got this 6750 lbs machine for the effort of picking up. Thanks to the fact I retired from heavy equipment and lotsa old favors owed. Thanks Doug
