Drill Press Repair help needed

[ccote]

I've got an old drill press that needs some work. I'm told it's a Rockwell, but I don't know for sure. It's been repainted, so any name or model is long since gone. The problem is that it has some wobble/runout. I've removed the chuck and quill, and I want to remove the arbor, with the hope of replacing it and/or the bearings, whichever is the problem. I can't figure out how to get the arbor out. Here's a pic of the quill:

I drove out the roll pin you can see in the pic, it was in the hole above the threaded portion of the arbor. What's next? Thanks!

 

[kweaver]

Let's see a pic of the head.
It should all be pressed in. My Rockwell doesn't have a pin but my old Craftsman does.

 

[ccote]

Here's a picture of the whole drill press. Any ideas on the arbor?

 

[kweaver]

That's one I've never seen before, good lookin old machine though.
The shaft will be pressed in. Since you didn't post a pic of the other end of the quill I can't say for sure but there should be an internal snap ring holding the bearing in. If not ... you may have to get a nut made to fit the threaded section above the taper and put a sleeve over the shaft to catch on the edge of the quill then a big heavy washer then the nut. Try to thread the nut causing it to push againt the sleeve/washer to pull the shaft out.

I'd re-check the fit between the quill and the head case first though ... might be where the movement is.

 

[bbrigham]

I got one like that a few years, well quite a few, ago for free cause the damn thing would fall apart. Seems I can't remember now how it went back together. Was only a 15min fix. If I can get to mine tomarrow I'll check it out.

Bren

 

[ccote]

The other end of the quill has an external snap ring around the part that turns (not sure the correct name...). The inside of that part is splined, it mates up a splined shaft that is driven by the pulley. The fit of the quill to the head is nice and snug. If I hold the quill, and wiggle the tapered part that holds the chuck, that's where the play is.

 

[kweaver]

If it has a snap ring around the top end of the shaft then take it off and with a block of wood try driving the shaft out. Lead hammer , dead blow hammer ... something that wont do damage.

Pizza just got home - I'm GONE ---->

 

[ccote]

Ok, I drove the inner shaft out of the quill, and found another pin. I drove the pin out, then separated the shaft into three parts. The slop seems to be where Part "A" in the picture below fits into part "B". Not sure what I can do about it, I have no machine shop capability, and I doubt that I'll even be able to get "A" back into "B" so that the holes line up. Bummer.

 

[kweaver]

A needs to be welded up and turned down to fit B then sounds like. B may have enough wear to need bored to straighten it out too. To bad your not close by we'd fix it up.

Looks like you've got a #1 Jacobs taper, I don't know if you could get one with a blank end or not to machine to fit your quill.

 

[kweaver]

You might could take something like this and machine it to work.
http://tinyurl.com/222dpu

If you can measure your taper with calipers or a mic I could tell you for sure what taper it is. The small diameter and large diameter and length of the taper.

 

[ccote]

Ken - I figured that remaking part "A" would be the best fix. It would be fairly easy, but without a lathe, I'm stuck. I could send the parts to you, if you are interested, email me if you are, maybe we can work something out... The chuck says something about a 33 on it, so I'm thinking it's a J33 taper, but I'll have to check when I get home. Thanks!

 

[kweaver]

Yep that'd be a Jacob #33 taper then. Measure the biggest diameter of the part to see if I can find something like in the below link to make it from. I've free hand turned a Morse #1 taper before that is an exact match but hey, I'm not gonna press my luck twice !

 

[ccote]

Ok, I checked the taper, it's 0.620 on the big end, and 0.561 on the small end. That looks like a Jacobs #33 taper, according to a chart I found on Wikipedia. The largest part of the adapter is 0.787, so I will need a 1" straight shank to 33JT adapter. I can only find 3/4" shank adapters. Another thing I just discovered, is that the bearings are metric. The id is 0.787, or 20mm, and the od is 1.652, or 42mm.

 

[ccote]

A little more searching revealed:

http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Straight+Shank+arbors:728,726

A 1" to 33JT for $8.50. Not bad. New bearings can be had from McMaster Carr for $21 each. Now to find a machinist to make it. Any interest Ken? Thanks!

 

[kweaver]

Chris - can't get the link to work , even just the main website.
7/8" (.875) is closer than 1" to what you have.
,,,,, ok got the main this time
.... got it

 

[kweaver]

wikipedia ?
haven't you ever checked out all my threads on here ?
http://tinyurl.com/2cqo9y

 

[ccote]

I'm still new here... I've yet to scratch the surface of the wealth of knowledge available here on the IH Cub Forum!

 

[kweaver]

Aw there's a wealth of knowledge on this site ! From the experts to ppl like me that have done about everything but not gotten "expert" in many of the skills (except welding for me). Expert as far as normal materials go anyway ... no spaceage welding needed in SEKY !

If you want to order that arbor and send it and arbor "A" and the shaft "B" down here we'll give it a shot.

 

[aschumacher]

....give it a 'shot'? <font size="-2">with your 45!?)</font>

 

[ccote]

Great! I'll get the parts on order.