Couplings Drive Shafts and Cubs

[dkamp]

Well, it's not that big'a deal, Ken- besides, with something like a 74K limit, that'd break up this file into what... 10 pieces or so?

Just started adding the super-knuckle, hydraulic steering-column, and turning-radius mods, next will be hydraulic pump and how-to on hydraulic steering calculations. Eventually, I'll add scale-drawing templates for cutting all the necessary pieces for what I've done... full-scale PDFs so that 'ya just print-em, place 'em, center-punch, scribe, and cut, so 'ya don't hafta go through all the template-making and test-fitting that I did... but it'll take a while.

 

[kweaver]

Actually I thought your pdf was going to be for the 3phase build but then I seen that we were in the wrong section ... as Kraig says ,"so many threads" that I got lost When you do your hydraulic steering calcs figure'em for a Euclid steering valve so I'll have a use for some of my "inventory"

I've got an MTD steering valve that I had to take a part to shorten the column shaft but I never did put it back together since I lost interest in what I was doing then ... but RC is putting pressure on me to finish it. You'd think he had enough to do than to put pressure on me ! Anyway keep the pdf's coming as I like saving tech info for later reference since I have the CRS disease.
Of course back when I built my "monster" there wasn't all this internet to go to for info or to share info but I put Vega spindles on my front axle complete with ball joints. I redrilled the rotors for a 4 bolt pattern and used 4x12 boat wheels. It sure made it a lot better for going through a turned garden. Later when I wanted to put the Minnie Mo' B10 front blade on it I just used the MM axle too since the blade hooked to it so I left the 12" wheeled front axle when I moved here. Two new tires and lots of lead ... couldn't pick it up at the time to load it up

 

[dkamp]

Okay, Ken... well, I don't know what valve they used in the Euc, but I'll include a 'how-to' on figurin' out what it's displacement-per-turn is... and also how to calculate the displacement of the cylinder(s) and piping configuration(s) used. I'll use the math on Loader-Mutt as an example, so you can see how I got the turns lock-to-lock. Not too hard, and I'll also point out what specifications you can ignore... there's lots of 'em, and some just don't matter much.

 

[kweaver]

Doing the displacement per turn wouldn't be hard to figure just messy. Plumb it with short pipes , fill the inlet side and messure what comes out the outlet side for one rev. Of course the easiest measurement would be to use a syringe to measure it in cc's then the hard part of converting to ci's. I've got a few pumps of varying sizes and that's what I always figured I do with them when it came time to use one. The flow capacity of spool valves would be the hardest to figure out I'd think.

 

[jgeorg]

Ken and whoever, there's great free convert program at http://www.joshmadison.com/software/
Converts almost anything to anything. Yes Ken, it does cc to ci.

John

 

[kweaver]

John the converter program that I posted in the Handy Shop Charts section works good too

 

[jgeorg]

Ken, I like it, quick and easy. But if you ever need to convert calories/sec to HP or inches to light years,

or who knows what, the other one will do that.

John

 

[dkamp]

Actually, valve flow for the steering valve isn't all that important, either, simply because the cylinder you're using, and the plumbing sizes it requires... pretty much answer all your questions for you. The only aspect of a rotary steering valve's flow that's important... is that your pump's circuit doesn't overrun the steering-valve's flow capacity without having an alternative bypass route. So... if your cylinders have a #6 port, and your steering valve has a #6, and the pump outlet is a #4, you're fine. There's an excellent write-up online by a buddy of mine... google for Billavista Hydraulic Steering and you'll see that he's detailed calculation of flow rates, etc., but for most applications, you won't be in a situation where flow will cause you problems... only scenario that comes to mind, is if you use an ordinary power-steering pump, where a fixed-displacement hydraulic should be.

The only point of real contention is the amount of displacement in the steering valve... and if you get the brand, model, and other numbers off the valve, and check the manufacturers' websites, you'll probably be able to find out the displacement-per-turn without spilling nasty old fluid on your boots. The georotor section of the valve is a good visual indicator... if it's thin, the Displacement Per Turn is low, and if it's thick, the DPT is high. Another way to look at it... if the Uke ran a single balanced 4" ram with 20" stroke, and that the Uke steered 4 turns lock-to-lock, you can just calcluate the ram's displacement, divide that by 4, and you'll have the valve's displacement. To change the application, you'll obviously have to come up with an appropriate compromise of ram bore and stroke to yield lock-to-lock turns you desire.

 

[hlinden]

Anybody have some words of wisdom on replacing the large front pulley (sheaves as Granger calls them) on an Original? I have cracked three off the shelf types at the hub, one aluminum two cast iron. They start rocking which makes a horrible knock and then immediately crack. Cranking down on the set screw probably worsens the tension.

The stock type is a little pricey so want to do some askin before I crack one of those. My original pulley had to be sacrificed to get the engine apart.
Thanks for the help.

 

[gfedwards]

Here is the approach to a driveshaft coupler that we have successfully used in garden tractor pulling. It is strong, makes easy work of disconnecting the driveshaft, and allows for some misalignment of the components without getting vibrations, etc. In this picture the bracket for the driveshaft support bearing is not shown in place but is there in application. This is a double #60 sprocket. We used to fool with the hardened 3" long coupler but were not satisfied so we came up with this. We have had no failure or problems with it after a couple of seasons of pulling. This picture is during assembly and the driveshaft is hanging loose which makes it look like it is running downhill. The clutch is a Vogel Spline drive which uses a 1" Chromoly tube driveshaft.