Archive through September 16, 2008

[bnolte]

I was able to catch the UPS guy as he brought the wrong Heim joints that I ordered yesterday to my door, and was able to turn them around. The right ones should be here tomorrow. I picked up a clutch disk, teaser spring, and a couple of roll pins at the local Cub dealer, so I've got my project for the evening.

Off to pay a couple of bills and get to the post office. Hopefully the engine block will be back from the machine shop tomorrow.

 

[jdreaves]

Kraig McConaughey.

When I painted over the school bus yellow (oil based - ACE rust stop paints are manufactured by KRYLON) with the clear lacquer, I only waited until it was dry to the touch, or almost so before I oversprayed with the lacquer. If you spray too thick, it will make the oil based paint wrinkle and bubble up. I know most people will say this can't be done, but I did it and it worked great - provided an oil and gas resistant barrier to the paint.

I understand from my frindley ACE paint guy, the new oil based paints are better than even a year ago and after curing for a few days, are pretty hard and will not react to their own thinners (oil and petroleum based products). That is good to know.

Have a nice day,

John-David Reaves
Roll Tide

 

[cgbusch]

IH Hy-Tran vs gear oil - my 122 is filled with gear oil from the smell of the oil. The oil looks remarkably clean. The manuals call for Hy-Tran oil of course.

Would you replace the oil? Its in the creeper, gearbox and hydraulic attachment.

 

[bnolte]

Went ahead and pulled the clutch apart to replace the clutch disk, and found the driveshaft was pretty chewed up. Cub dealer was closed, and besides those shafts cost $$, so I made one from some 5/8 cold rolled steel. The throwout bearing was ok at least, the PO must have replaced it recently, and put it on the worn shaft. Just about got it back together.

 

[bbrigham]

Chris, I'll probably get flamed for this

but I use gear oil in my gear drives. I wouldn't use it in any hydraulics though. It's too far out of my way to get Hytran but there is 2 auto parts stores 4 miles from me. Now if I COULD get Hytran locally I would.

 

[smerkel]

Greetings:
I am the proud owner of an International Cub #12167. Family history said it was a '60, but seems more likely a '61. I am having a problem with the shift lever which is failing to engage the transmission. I un-bolted the shifter housing and see the bottom end of the shift rod looks to have been pulled up above the 'H' cup by the force of the spring on top. My working theory is that the 'H' pattern has worn to the point that the shift lever has moved up and therefore does not engage properly. Can anyone verify my diagnosis and recommend a course of action to repair?
I can post more information and pictures if required. Thanks in advance.

Stephen Merkel
Chesterfield VA

 

[aaytay]

Chris-
The manuals suggest using either Hytran or 30wt oil in the transmission.

Gear oil is much thicker than either of those oils, not to mention Hytran has a (chemical) "moisture trap" in it that grabs onto any moisture which may get into the transmission.

Others may disagree with this technique, but if it were me, I would go to your local fleet store and get one of the many "hytran compatible" (off-brand) hydrostat oils (ie cheaper than real hytran) and run that in the trans for a short period of time, then switch from that to Hytran.

Again, my $.02, ymmmv, etc, etc..

 

[bbrigham]

Yep, Hytran is the best. I should have said I use lower unit gear oil...oops. I had a lot of it left from having boats. It's a lot thinner than gear oil you would use in a truck. Still not right but I have it.

 

[bnolte]

Stephen,
Go to the top of the page to the Cub Cadet Electronic Parts catalog, and type in Cub Cadet as the model name, and you should be able to find the diagram for the gear shift mechanism. If not, here is a shot of it. Perhaps the ball is broken off the end, or a weld or pin has snapped.

 

[aaytay]

Stephen-
Look to see if #9 in Bruce's diagram is still intact on your tractor. I had the spirol pin in mine break at a Plow Day event (I think some nut-job even had a video of me fixing it.. Grr...) and it gave a similar symptom.

Brendan-
What kind of lower-unit lube do you have that is thinner than standard gear-oil?

Most "marine" lower unit gear oils that I have seen are the usual 80W-90.

Just curious.....

Oh, and let's not forget this:

 

[rchristensen]

Stephen M.

Normally the weld breaks on the shifters (part #3) like this.

You need to get a good one or weld the one you have. To repair it you need to take the bottom off part # 11 I think. Kraig will probably post the procedure to remove the bottom tomorrow.

 

[bbranstetter]

Wonder what the wear factor would be on the internal brake between using conventional oil verses hytran. I was under the impressoin that brake wear would not be as good with the 30wt but that's just a thought though, not real sure on that.

 

[jbliler]

Brian, cannot speak for any other cub but the 100 here has had 90wt in the tranny for most all of it's life. Brake was fine last time it was ran. It has been under a very long term rebuild and has not ran in 6 years. Kind of a shame.

 

[klejeune]

Jerry B,
Is the 100 any further along than the last time I saw it?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Stephen M., Richard C., From the archives:

SHIFT REPAIR Scroll down it's near the bottom of the page.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I made some good progress on K4K last night. I left work a little early, it was nice out so I rolled K4K outside so I had more room to work around it. The steering wheel is just loosely placed on it for steering. I'll bolt it on after I get the dash decal on.

In case anyone is wondering what K4K's serial number is.

I mentioned yesterday that I needed a new choke cable. I got thinking (yeah I know, dangerous thing to have happen) that I might just have a choke cable kicking around somewhere. Then I remembered that I had bought one many years ago for my #1 125 that I never used. I quick trip to the garage and there it was hanging behind the spool of string trimmer line covered in dust. I'll trim the cable to length once the engine is installed.

I forgot to drill the hole for the light switch BEFORE I painted the pedestal.

Oh well, it was easy to drill it after.

I had a partial container of Fleet Farm Universal Hydraulic Transmission Fluid left over from 1993 when I changed the filter and fluid in my then new to me #2 125.

Hey, that was before this forum and before I knew to use actual Hy-Tran. Anyway I had just enough to fill up the transmission in K4K, well actually to slightly overfill it as the little bit extra ran out on the ground before I noticed.

I mopped that up as best I could. I may have to dig up a little soil there and burn it in the fire pit to clean it up.

 

[rchristensen]

Kraig Thanks for posting the information. I think I save stuff like that and then when I go to find it, somehow its lost.

Charlie probably has that info in a FAQ somewhere but I didn't have time to go look.

 

[aaytay]

Guys-
I could be wrong here, but I think the Original shifters are different than those which were in the later cubs, so that "broken weld" fix really doesn't apply here. If you look back at the parts-breakdown Bruce N posted last night, you'll see that the part is slightly different.

Kraig-
Not to sound like a broken record, but "LOOKIN GOOD"!

<font size="-2">(Maybe "broken ipod" is a better phrase these days?)</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

The weather was nice for painting yesterday so I decided to paint some more parts. I started with the upper cast bracket for the 3 point. I also painted the rod/insert for the 3 point, I painted that white but forgot to take a photo.

Then I painted the lift bar for the 3 point and the fender support rod.

I was having so much fun painting that I decided to paint/repaint the fenders. Last week I had painted one of the fenders but the humidity was too high and the paint came out flat. They are both nice and shiny now.

Wow I still had daylight so I decided to install the fender support and seat spring.

Well it only takes one bolt to hold the pan seat on so.... I only put the nut on finger tight, I'll take the seat back off before I install the fenders.

Selah was guarding the shed and supervising my work.

And YES, I did set on it for a while and relax before I rolled K4K back into the shed.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Oops, I forgot to mention that I also installed the shift knob.