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Archive through May 09, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Norm B:

I helped a friend re-power his 682 with a M-18. The ONLY issues we ran into was mounting the Oil Filter Bracket, of which we chose the Fire Wall. If Richard C is lurking, he has some good pic's of this. Richard also repowered his 782 more recently and also could shed some additional insight on this.
Also, we had some slight wiring modifications in the ignition switch area if I recall correctly. That was it. Dropped right in. He was a Happy Cubber. - LOL

Hope this helps,
 
Norm B. & Roland

When I purchased my 782 it had already been repowered by Jim Diederichs, he's the expert. I did do a complete tear down and restoration after I got it so I have a lot of pictures from the ground up if they will help in any way.

Also Steve B. just repowered a 782 with a Mag 18 and knowing him he has all the information and pictures.
 
My problem is not just installing an M18 in my 682, it's installing an M18 from a super garden tractor in my 682. I don't know if the spec # is different. Does anyone have the engine spec # on a model 1872 or 982?
I hope Jim D. or Steve B. is looking at my posts...

Thanks Roland & Richard
 
Norm,

There shouldn't be any difference at all.....the SGT's are same-same (except for the front axle) as the GT's from the dash forward.

You will need the remote oil filter, and you will need to switch the ignition circuit to the grounding type, not the hot wire type. This can be done with an 1811 ignition switch or with a relay. I used the relay and it works slick. Whatever you do, don't put 12v on the ignition module of the Mag 18, you may ruin it and they run about $80 new (my donor engine had a bad module, so I know the $$$$).

Might consider a new fuel pump as part of the deal, they seem to like to tear diaphragms after the 600-700 hour mark, filling the crankcase with fuel and creating a potentially fatal engine condition.

Might also want to stake the gov. shaft while you are at it.
 
Thanks, Steve B., that looks like good info., happy to hear they're the same. Somehow I thought the 982 was larger overall. I'm going to pick up this engine this week, decided to get it because my series I is getting tired. Still runs and that'll give me time to build up this one. I'll take your advice, might as well do the job right. I might be getting back to you on the details though.
If you, or anyone, thinks of anything else that may be in order, I'd appreciate hearing from you.

Thanks All
 
SGT's are about 5" longer and have a taller and wider stance due to larger tires all around and a different front axle/steering drag link set-up.

The front frame, engine plate, sheetmetal, etc. should all be the same.

BTW, I did the same thing to my 782, then when I pulled the old motor realized it was an early Series II. It will be getting rebuild soon and going in my new play toy...gear drive 682...
 
Gear drive 682? Didn't know that made those! How did you know the old motor was a series II?
 
Norm,

"They" didn't......but I am!!!!
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I pulled the sheetmetal and saw the oil pressure gauge port....that got me to scraping paint off of the spec. number tag and found it to be a series II.
 
So let me get this straight, if I put a mag18 in my 682, I'll just have to put in an 1811 ignition switch or a relay? Which would be cheaper? And if I decided to put in a relay would someone be kind enough to give me instructions, thanks.
 
Charlie,
What is this that Hugh did to a 582, I have a 582 that I need to rework the engine this fall, it has a 16HP twin cyl. Briggs in it, I may have to have it bored and put in an oversize piston and rings, but any one that has built one of thes engines, I sure could use some pointers. Thanks.
 
I have a 1250 that I would like to convert into a rear wheel steering tractor. Is it possible to make simple internal adjustments to the hydro so that the faster speed ,which is normally forward, becomes the reverse speed? If so, what adjustments need to be made to made? Any info would be appreciated.
 
Charlie- What I did to my 582 Modified is put a 782 hydro rear in it and the hyd lift rockshaft and had to couple the enginge to the hydro with the clutch assembly to get things into place. It is real handy when I'm blowing snow and starts real nice with the hydro disengaged.

All I've done to the engine is regular maintenance and I cann't wait for the Briggs and Scrappum to go south so I can possibly upgrade to a Honda engine or something of the like and add a few more ponies under the hood.


(Message edited by hsimon on May 09, 2005)
 
Can anyone tell me the size or part # of the correct main drive belt (off the motor-thru mule drive,) for a Cub Cadet 149 with a 48" mower deck? I read a IH # 489397R3 on the old belt, my dealer told me that # is discontinued, looking for the right replacement # or general size to match up a belt. Thanks, Jeff
 
Jeff, if your dealer searched for a part# 489397R3 it will not show up. The part number is IH-489397-R3. He could search for a 489397, IH-489397 or IH-489397-R3 and it should show up. Hope this helps.
 
Perhaps Apostle Ken will show up today and read from his latest scrolls on the belt number. Oh Ken.... :eek:)
 
How do I remove and incredibly rusty muffler that is so rusted it looks welded in place? Any ideas?
One more please, what is backfiring a sign of? It only happens when I turn it off, although it did do it once the other day and shut it self off...
thanks everyone.
Jeff
 
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