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Archive through March 20, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rbeem

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2006
Messages
786
Post once in a blue moon and the archive bug gets me.....
After somehow ending up with a herd of CCC built machines, I decided it was time to go back to my roots.
Picked a 4 digit "O" and a '62 for my next builds.
The plan is a bare bones '61 and a fully loaded '63 as parts accumulate.
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Good Cub day......

782 has had an issue with the mule drive frankenstien bolt on the right side for some time. Previous owner had replaced the bolt and in the process broke the spot welded nut off of the frame. Made for a real PITA to install implements.

Finally had enough after I took the snow thrower off today and pulled the engine to weld it up! 2 hours, start to finish, and that included an oil and filter change!!!!! Pulled the engine in about 25 min., cleaned up the nut/frame, welded them back up solid, and then back together with a fresh charge of oil for summer mowing (my son claims this one as his mowing tractor).

Not necessarily a record time, but I was happy with my 2 hours worth of effort!

AND......no more farting around with that busted pin when installing implements!


AND...I spent the hour before that fertilizing the yard with the turbo diesel (yes I know it was a little over kill for a spreader, but the whistle sounded great tooling along at 1/2 throttle!!!!!!!)
 
Kevin, Charlie, in back around 1999 when I refurbished the QA42 that my parents bought new in 1969 I replaced those needle bearings. I used a socket as a die to drive the old ones out and I pressed the new ones in with the same socket and a C clamp. Anyway one of the original zerks would never take grease, turns out the bearing from the factory never had the hole drilled into it. The two new ones I put in lined up perfectly and accept grease nicely.
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Rick, nice project.
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Steve, sounds like a nice productive day.
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Show and tell Monday!!

Got this done for the 126 yesterday.
Used rattle can bed liner to get the texture and will apply the decal today. I made a small test panel and used an eraser to smooth the decal sample (from one of the headlight openings) and the texture showed through. The chrome on the bezels is a lot better than what the picture shows. Sprayed the inner part w/flat black

The unit I bought was missing the part #19. Thanks to Harry for the loan of his so I could make a jig patterned from his part to produce some.

Also scored a nice grill for it, still need a decent hood though. Getting excited about finishing it up now. Still waiting on the shaft seals for the hydraulic pump, hope they will show up today.


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Austin-

There is a relief valve handle on the right side of the console/tunnel cover. It needs to be pulled up which pushes two buttons on top of the hydro pump. This opens the relief valves. If it pulls up and over you'll need to remove the cover and make sure the buttons are in manually. The flapper that pushes the buttons is some times broken. If that's the case then I'd suggest going to CC Specialties (top of page) and getting a replacement from Charlie. He has a beefier aftermarket flapper. It attaches by way of a small roll pin which you'll see once the cover is removed. I think he even includes a new roll pin with the purchase (don't hold me to that).

Anyway, the tractor should roll with the buttons depressed.

.
 
A very busy weekend, no cub time.
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With having this Friday off I hope for some time to unload the shed and pull things out. My 1450 is leaking at the rear cover again. Sigh. I've used new original gasket each time I pulled the cover off and used green rtv this last time. It held most of winter until sometime in last month. I have a puddle again. To note I finally got it to stop leaking with the green rtv and gasket.
 

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Earl-

Next time you have that back cover off check it for flatness. Sometimes the bolt holes get pulled in a little from constant torquing which can interfere with good, even sealing.

My .02 worth on the matter.

.
 
David, looking good!
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Wayne, that's more like $10.00 worth.
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Thank you Charlie for the picture and the advise about stuffing a rag inside the bearing. I wouldn't have thought of that.

Thank you Craig for the removal and installation advice using a socket. Do they come out and go in pretty easily or am I looking at a difficult task?
 
David,

Don't you need to turn those head lights (bulbs) 90 degrees?
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I am in the process of putting the creeper back into my 108 and one of the Spirol Pins in the coupler to the drive shaft is bad. The parts book says these are heavy duty. Can I get these at a local hardware store or are these special to take the load on the drive shaft?
 
Carson H.
As long as you get a spirol pin,
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and NOT a roll pin,
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You can get them at any parts or hardware store.
 

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Charlie:
Thanks for the nice pictures showing the difference in the pins. Now I know what to look for at the hardware store.
 
With how many times I've done this now you think I'd have checked that! Thanks Wayne! Would the easiest way to flatten it be a press then? Or could I hammer it careful like? Using sacrificial material so no hammer marks are left on cover? I don't have ready access to a press.
 
Earl - I've flattened a couple on a foot square piece of 3/4 inch steel plate, with the inside facing up. I'm not sure how you'll do it without damaging the paint and I would not do it on anything soft - too much risk of warping the cover. I just hit the bulge and flatten it back - it doesn't have to be perfect..
 
I trust sponsors up top, but has anyone used the replacement rear cover from extreme motorworks? Specifically the dual plug model. It will probably be better for me to get that instead of trying to flatten mine. I didn't have this problem with my 1200, but I put gear oil in it. After all the talk, I'll put hytran back in this year, and probably have similar situation, so I may just get covers for all 3
 
Thanks Gerry, I'll try that first, I have access to an anvil st work
 

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