Archive through January 15, 2015

[dschwandt]

We are doing the "Jacked up Rear 1st gear idle rear wheel nut/bolt roulette/boogie" on a buddy's cruddy gas tank here.

How would that stuff be to clean out the insides of a rusty/nasty, varnish coated gas tank??

BTW It's from a rusty 104 that has sat for years outside. About 2 hours, new points, carb kit/cleaning, static timing and a new starter switch and it LIVES!!!

 

[dfrisk]

David - It's a total waste of time trying to clean a rusty dirty gas tank like that. That tank is made from three sections correct? The one section just has tiny little slits between the larger section of the tank and the end section. One third of the tank will always remain dirty, rusty.

If you took the tank apart you'd quickly see.

If you used some sort of liquid, like an acid or other caustic liquid to clean the tank it would flow into that part of the tank. Been almost 15 years since I had a tank apart but if I remember correctly, a B-B is about the biggest thing that can get through the slits.

 

[digger]

3 minutes of shaking with Muriatic Acid will make it look like new.
Then spray the inside with PB blaster(seals the steel), let set over night, shaking once and a while, drain,install, fill with gas and your good to go.
BTDT way to many times to count.

 

[kmcconaughey]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Monday, January 19, 2015 - 10:30 am:

Then spray the inside with PB blaster(seals the steel)<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">I did not know this. Thanks, I will have to go spray one I have that is setting empty.</font>

 

[digger]

Kraig,
I didn't either until I cleaned one once, rinsed it with gas and set it aside.
3 weeks later I looked, and it had started to rust again.
So I did the PB blaster thing, set it aside for 3 months. Checked it and it was still perfectly clean inside.

So I put it on the tractor, ran 4 or 5 tanks of gas through it. Drained it, left the cap off for another month or so. Checked it and it was still clean. So I just figured between the PB blaster and the gas, it had done a good enough job of sealing the steel, That's my story and I'm stickin to it!

 

[kmcconaughey]

The one I have setting empty is not entirely empty, it has a little bit of light oil in it that I rolled around inside to, hopefully, coat the bare steel. I will have to check if it is at all rusty. If so I'll have to re-clean it with acid and try the PB Blaster.

 

[dlbarnett]

Good morning all cubbers. I know harry has been waiting on this all weekend. The square u bolt that I made on Friday fit. I had to suck it down using the nuts as it was a tight fit. Plus I had to tweak the threaded parts down about five degrees to get it to clear the pto bolt

The next project of the weekend was to put seat springs on a 123. I wanted it to able to tilt to keep the rain off and not sit too high and be adjustable

First I modified the stock seat mount by cutting the sides off

The seat I used was not a Cub Cadet seat, I had to drill the springs to match the bolt pattern. I tied them together using some tubing and added rubber bumpers

Last on the list was more weight. I had this bracket that I had made for the 106/loader back in the day. The cast iron weights that it was made for are now in the Mt1800 weight box. But I had some old weight lifting machine weights stacked up out back so I modified it to use
those.

 

[sblunier]

Doug,

Did you at least paint the springs while you were at it?

 

[dlbarnett]

Steve B. the springs you sent me? Not yet I still need to bead blast them. The seat springs did get a shot of paint but not great

 

[kmcconaughey]

Doug, I like that seat mod! And I have a couple of spare seat bases and a set of seat springs...