• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through August 19, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jcarlton

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
82
displayname
jason carlton
Terry B.

Jet engine in a cub has already been done it made a exhibition pass at the NQS pull in Bloomington, IL about 4-5 years ago I think... cool to watch.....it had 1x8/1x9 sheet metal I believe...Don's probably seen it run. Called Jet Cadet simple enough....lol
 
Charlie,

I was talking to Chris E. on the phone tonight, explaining how I want to get the power steering on the loader tractor this winter when the 82 series influence from my collection took over......

64111.jpg



...this paint scheme may be hard to turn down, it's sure got me thinking about how far to go with paint when I add the PS, foot control, and heavy front axle!!!!
 
STEVE - Paint Her up like a 1066....I prefer the red/white as opposed to the later Black stripes.

I buried myself in the shop this weekend to stay out of the rain....everything needed an oil change, 72, 982, finally got the 10W-30 Rotella in Dad's '51 M I bought a year ago. Don't know what Dad had in the old girl but it needed changing BAD!
 
Steve B., nice job on the swing set play area! Oooo, an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> red 149, <font size="-2">(before someone informs me that the red strip means it's a 129, I already know that but Steve's Cub Cadet has had a 14hp transplant.)</font> go for it and post plenty of photos of the progress please!
thumbsup.gif


Charlie, back in the early to mid 80's when I was just out of high school I worked at the B&L liquor store in Houlton, WI and we sold lots of Blatz there.
beerchug.gif
Never cared for the stuff myself...
eww.gif
roflol.gif
 
Gas Tank Question - Should a metal gas tank have a ground ( - ) connection to the engine / frame, or should it be completely insulated? Or, does it matter?
 
Matt H., on the older Cubs it had metal to metal contact. There were "pads" between the tank and the supports but there were metal bands clamping it down and it had a metal fuel line.
 
One the 82 series tractors (582/682/782) will the 1250/1450/1650 metal diamondplate like footrest pads fit?
 
I have seen colored wiring diagrams from various tractors posted from time to time. I'm needing some wiring diagrams and wondered where people were finding these. Thanks in advance.
 
Jim, Roland B., created those colorized schematics. What model are you looking for, I have copies of Roland's special schematics.
 
Matt H. Not sure how all tanks are secured, but I generally liked the idea of a ground wire in case of static when fueling. Just my 2cents
 
Kraig / Allen -

Thanks for the info. Because of the odd way that other portions of this 123 were set-up, I did scratch my head a bit. There was paper / fiber material between the bands and the tank, and the metal fuel line was insulated with a rubber grommet at each end. Theoretically, the tank could have been fully insulated from ground, but probably wasn’t. I’ll make sure that the tank is fully grounded to help prevent the particular kind of excitement that sparks around gas vapor can cause.
 
Matt H., the O-rings are there as a seal not an insulator. The material between the tank and the support brackets should look somewhat like an oil lamp wick.
 
I bought a 3 pt. hitch for my 126. It does not have the round insert that goes in the top piece. I'm assuming that this is just a solid piece of round stock. My questions is: How long should this piece be, and how far from the end should the hole be drilled that actually lifts the U-shaped hitch?
 
Jim, I believe that originally the rod came with the implement and there were different lengths for different implements, though all the implements that used a sleeve hitch adapter would use the same rod as the rod would be spec. for use with the sleeve hitch adapter. (Think of the sleeve hitch adapter as an implement) The length of this rod would likely be wrong for your application as it is from an Original but it might give you a starting point to make one. And yes, it is a solid rod. Also note, only the Original had the welded on washer.

64113.jpg
 
Jim, I think the important thing is that the lift straps from the sleeve hitch adapter be straight up or perhaps leaning slightly toward the tractor.

64117.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top