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hdshine

Active member
Joined
Oct 13, 2004
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Dave Shine
All, Got another issue with my 126 that I hope y’all can help me with.

I'm using electrolysis to derust my gas tank. Things seem to be going well. However, I realized that the tank has a baffle so I’m a bit worried that (1.) the rust junk released by the electrolysis will be trapped behind it and (2) there will be no derusting behind the baffle since the effect is line of sight from the electrode dropped down from the filler hole.

Any of you have any experience with this procedure? Any ideas?
 
Dave S.
Sounds like you got lucky on the block, I had to go .030 over on the 102 project due to a broken ring which is why I emphasized making sure the ring gap was adequate.

I can't really help you with the derusting of the gas tank by electrolysis, an alternate method is as a previous poster suggested was to fill the tank with a mixture of Muriatic Acid and Water, but the acid can be nasty stuff. You can always throw a handful of nuts and bolts or gravel into the tank and shake it up real good to remove the loosened rust, but make sure you retrieve it all.

Speaking of my 102 project, while I'm waiting on the decals, I went ahead and ordered new tires, and decided to go with Ag treads all the way around. Since its primary use will be for pushing snow and dirt around, and putting around tractor shows, it should give the tractor a unique look yet be practical. Received the front tires from Tucker Tire last week, and decided to order the rears from them as well. Pictures as soon as they're mounted.

Even though today is my day off, the outside thermometer says 95, so I'm hiding out in my airconditioned office today.
 
David, which bearings are you referring to? The bearings on each end of the auger? If so they should be readily available at Fleet Farm or farm supply store and probably even at auto parts stores. Or try one of the forum sponsors at the top of the page many of them should have them in stock, CC Specialties has them listed.
 
ok i need some help i took appart the starter/generator that went bad on my 71, upon first inspection, everything is covered in a fine gold powder, when it was on the tractor it squeeled so loud i thought it was the throw-out bearing, now im not sure what to do, i read the S/G manual in the cub FAQs but im lost, (i hate electrical stuff!)
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also it there a bearing on the rear of the shaft or a bushing, if it was a bearing its completely gone now!
 
Matt,
You may have plowed up one of the bags of gold buried in your yard that then got ingested into the starter/generator.
Carefully gather the offending dust and proceed to your favorite Cub parts supplier.

That wasn't much help.....I hate electical too!
 
Hmmmm.
Let me see, gold, <font color="ff6000">bushing</font> colored powder .... could it be.......naw must be pixy dust...
 
so it was a bushing, not a bearing? so how do i clean the armatures and all the other stuff, i remember there bring debate about the methods not too long ago but couldnt find it, can you tell by looking at the pic if those brushes garbage?
 
Well, I see a bushing in there and not a bearing, so it's not a bearing. You need a new bushing. We'd need a closer pic of the brushes to tell...that pic is way too small on my screen. The commutator looks clean from here, but I would undercut the mica. The service manual explains that. Aside from the bushing dust, that's cleaner than just about every one I've taken apart. I wonder if somebody was in there doing something and didn't lube the bushing. Make sure the front bushing or bearing isn't bad. If that's loose, the armature could hit the pieces of metal that hold the field and start windings in, and you don't want that.
 
well i got whats left of that bushing out, and got a better pic of the brushes, as for the front bearing it has some wobble (if thats how you spell it?) to it i think it maybe bad, anyone know how much a rebuild kit for one of these costs?
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Hello All,

An update on the rim I posted an image of and cleaned up a short while ago. Have the new turfs mounted now and the bead shoulder and valve holes are holding air just fine. I had longer valve stems in and thought they'd grow on me but they didn't so I replaced 'em with shorter stems and I like 'em much better. Thought there for awhile I'd have ta replace the one rim since it looked so bad on the outset but looks to be okay and should be for years to come if I have my way about it.

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The two images below are of what was the nasty rim.
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Shorter valve stems are much nicer lookin' not to mention more practical.
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Kenneth
 
Matt-

Those brushes aren't real bad, but they aren't real expensive either...there is no "rebuild kit". You've got to get the parts piece by piece. I'd get brushes and new bushings. The armature and the coils aren't cheap...hopefully you don't need those.
 
I just brought home an Original, serial #6378. I found it by accident and couldn't resist the price of $50. It is complete but not in running condition. It also came with the carb/oil bath filter and the complete mower deck. I just started buying cubs about 6 months ago and never thought I would own one. I just thought I would share my good luck with all of you. I will try to post some pics soon.
 
My 125 is acting up again. I stud it up to do some cleaning underneath. some trains fluid liked from the filter on top of the trans.
It was milky so I darned it and the fluid looked good.

Also it seems to roll rely easy. will easier than before. does this sound familiar. One more what type of fluid do i put in my gear drive. Thanks again Mike
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My 782 starts fine run it for a while turn it off it will not start. Let it cool and it will start. I have put on new condenser. That did not solve the problem. Should I put on new coil? Wiring problem? what do you guy think. thanks lee
 
gary lee turney,

If it were a car I'd say it was the starter. Heat makes the armature swell. When it cools it starts and runs until next time.

But since it's not a car and a 782... I don't know. One of the pros will be along to help ya.
 
its not the starter it will crank over all day long put not start
 
Matt, You first need to check the condition of the shaft that ran in the bushing. The shaft is most likely badly worn and may not be reusable. It must be very smooth or a new bushing will not last. On the end frame below the bushing, the round part is an oil reservoir and a little wick that extended upward through a slot in the side of the bushing, the wick is most surely destroyed. Some end frames are made for a ball bearing instead of a bushing,a much better idea. In the photo it looks like the the armature was rubbing on the fields and got very hot,it may be damaged electrically. It might be time to consider a replacement,preferrably with a ball bearing in the rear. You can tell the ball bearing end frame because the round center area is much larger in diameter.
 
Gary...Is it getting fuel when it won't start ? Maybe getting vapor locked as the carb absorbs heat while setting till it cools enough ?
 

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