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Archive through August 08, 2010

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Jeff,
I've installed two rear lifts in recent weeks. One on my 123 and one on a 104. The gear drives are easier to install one on as you have more room to get that top bolt in through the lift lever arm. On a hydro there are linkage there.
 
hello
could use some help here on a cc 106.
im looking to purchase a snow plow for 106.
could you explain to me what all i need to install it. the 106 has a 42" mower on it now. do i use that mule to hook up blade to. im confused because some plows i looked at have long frames and others are short frames.
thanks
allen
 
I have a 42" blade I use on my 125.


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Notice in the middle picture it uses the quick attach mounts.

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You'll also need that bracket which attaches to the lift handle and a rod ( you'll need one of those too ) to move the blade up and down.

Jeff
 
ok guys

i have a cub 100 that is now stuck in reverse. i can put it another gear but it doesnt do anything. it will not go into the reverse position at all.

i assume i need to split the tractor and take the top cover off to start with.

before this happened it would pop out of reverse. any ideas?

i was going to a small show ( and actually going to pick up my 2nd original )

i will have to post pictures of the new one just purchased but the serial number is 7 from the other original i have that to me is pretty cool
 
Need help, my 102 has started eating generators, it will burn out the charging windings. I am wondering what usually goes wrong with the charging system to cause this?
 
chris rolke

The shifter cup is welded in place and that weld will let go and your shifter will not work properly. usually you will have a lot of slop in the shifter and it could jump out of gear. you will have to take the shifter out and have a look . I think there is some info in the fac that will help you. Not a big problem
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Chris R.-

Sounds like you had a bent shift fork that has now broken. It's time to split it and take the shifter off and see what's going on.
 
Tim Belue

overcharging because of a bad regulator could over work the starter generator to the point that it would destroy the windings. You will have to get another starter gen and check the voltage . Hope someone else can tell you what or where to check the regulator.
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Harry and Matt, I got the hydro handle loose. I took out the battery and on the right hand side of the steering colunm, there is just enough room to get a drift punch on the edge of the friction disc, a couple good taps, I use that word loosely, lots of deep creep and also if you take off the deck, you can slip a modified 7/8 wrench, 15/16 is too big, you can get on the arm that goes to the hydro and grunt on that, it moves now, I`ll keep lubing it and moving it back and forth, should be AOK, thanks for the advice.........Lyle
 
Here is a story of why to check your driveline parts. I JUST got done installing power steering in my 782 loader and decided to give it a test. Being I had to bring a motor and tranny up to the shop, I figured why not. It only weights about 550 lbs and the new spindles and heavy duty tie rods should hold up just fine. As i was proceeding up the drive, all of a sudden a tremendous clanking came from under the tunnel and i instantly shut her down. I knew instantly what it was. I pulled the cover off and couldnt belive my eyes how the drive shaft wrapped that steel line right around it. The pucks were ripped right in half and broke one of the ears off on the shaft connector. Good thing for spare parts. So out came the recovery vehicle! Enjoy. By the way, the new power steering and reinforced front end parts worked great.

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Aaron - Ouch! Thanks for the reminder on maintenance.

Charlie, how's your loader (with the extra-large bucket) coming along? Have you checked your driveline parts lately?

I don't have a loader, but I think it's time to check my driveline parts, especially since I don't have a "recovery vehicle" like Aaron has.
 
My bad cub this week was my 128 while mowing it ate up its throw out bearing. So after installing the used drive line from the 108 parts unit it was back on its way.

Until the next morning when the starter solenoid deciced to fail so back to the 108. now up and running for at least another day.
 
Wayne S - that's a decent looking 129 that followed you home. Nice to have the lights. Glad that pipe is being changed quick.

On the 1250, not sure if there is a quick fix. You didn't mention if the amp needle is staying towards discharge even with the key off. If so, then something like the lights being on (if you have them) or the PTO switch engaged, could have sucked the juice out of the battery. I'm no electrical expert, but I'd start by making sure the lights and PTO are off, and then install another battery to see what happens. If you still get 1 click I'd try jumping around the solenoid to see if it starts (go from the battery direct to the starter with the key in the on position). If it starts then it's probably the solenoid. If it doesn't turn over then I'd try a couple taps on the starter (even tho it has a decal telling you not to) just soft taps to see if the bendix might be stuck. If none of this works, well, lets hope someone else begins to pick up on the problem, but I'm thinking your starter might be locked up or failed.

Lyle B - glad to hear it's breaking loose. Not sure if you'll get it completely free using this method but worth the effort. Keep on trying.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (they do occasionally develop a tuff start problem related to old parts or wires)
 
Harry-

I was wondering if anyone had read my question. It's a pita when you go to the trouble to post and upload then get ignored. Anyway, I haven't had or taken the time to fool with the 1250. I just rolled it in the barn for now. As far as that exhaust stack goes I have real problems now. I actually broke some of the block where it screws in. Too much lateral pressure. I took a couple of pics and will post them later. I haven't even had my coffee yet this morning.

Jeff-

Aren't parts tractors great? They're such a time saver.
 
Here's what happened when I tried to get that rediculous stack off of the 129. The chips are less than 1/4" thick so I didn't remove much "meat"; they're more like large flakes. Now, has anyone experienced this? I have lost the flat surface for the locking ring. I don't know that there's much I can do at this point other than screw the exhaust nipple in, attach the muffler, and hope for the best. Any and all input will be greatly appreciated. This is a tight engine.

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Here are the "flakes".

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It didn't take much pressure at all so everyone be careful when working on these old machines. It's really heartbreaking to mess up like this.
 
Good morning, Wayne, and all. That pic looks like a good place to start a discussion about using those 2 3/8" threaded holes to attach the exhaust elbow. Someone here must've done that?
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as promised here is my version of look what followed me home

1961 cub original 7 digits away form my other original

missing the tank and the motor will not do a full revolution but i do hear some compression and wrong hood

notice anything on the back?
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I painted my home-made hitch adapter and I also turned the bracket on the box blade right side up. Sorry for the poor paint job on the adapter, but, as you can see, I'm no painter.

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I need to run to the hardware store and get another 1/2 inch pin for the top portion of the adapter where it attaches to the 3 point lift rod.
 
Lucas,
I probably would buy the correct hitch if I had the money. But I wanted to see if I could build my own, so I did. CC Specialties sells them for $155 currently with their new, reduced price. If you had the material and knew how to weld or had a welder available, you can build one for less. But if you had to buy the materials, pay someone to weld it, etc., you be better off buying one from CC Specialties or an used one. Here's a link to my plans:

http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=447
 

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