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2284 runs on one cylinder

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cbarnes

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Charles Barnes
MY 1995, Kohler V twin CH22S, 60" deck. Has new plugs, fresh 93 octane in tank, I cleaned carb. jets. Tried different gasolines, no difference. At WOT under load the engine misses one cylinder. When this happens I'll pull on the choke, RPM will drop, the engine will give a few mild backfires, I'll push choke off the engine will RPM back up and run fine for maybe a minute then start the miss all over again. The fuel pump works. Help will be greatly appreciated. Best, CB
 
Charles,

That CH22S used an analog "Smart Spark" ignition unit and modules. The typical failure would be a weakening module, or coil as some call them. Your dealer has a special test using an 18kv tester on the plug wires for these engines. It'll find the weak coil in a few minutes.

He can also bench test the Smart Spark box itself, that's the rectangular black box mounted on the flywheel cover, RH side. However based upon your symptoms, it seems to indicate the ignition module/coil is the problem.

How do you get to it? That's the fun part, they mount next to the flywheel so that cover must be removed, in a 2284 you'd likely need to move the engine forward to access it.

I had lots of problems with my 2284 ignition, to be honest with you. A kind soul sent me 2 new modules and a flywheel to eliminate the Smart Spark system (which is a spark retard device for variable timing)on mine, it was night and day's difference! The 18 20 and 23 HP Commands are fixed timing engines, which eliminates the Smart Spark problems.

You want an 18 degree flywheel and (2) 18/20 HP modules. Maybe give the Engine Service guys at Kohler a call????? If they will help you with parts that'd be great!
 
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On a CC3225 with Kohler CH22S engine, I just replaced 2 coils, Smart Spark Box and a breather filter with new gasket. Now the low oil pressure light will not shut off even when the oil sensor is unplugged. Any suggestions?
 
I didn't look up the wiring diagram for the CC3225, but if the oil switch is wired like most every other one I've seen, the only way the oil light can come on is if the wire going to the oil switch is grounded. So, if you unplug the wire to the oil switch, the light should go out. If it doesn't, the wire to the oil switch is receiving a ground from somewhere else. Maybe the wire rubbed through the insulation on something. Try to follow that wire from the oil switch to the light. See if maybe a wire got pinched while you were replacing all those other parts.
 
John is right, recheck the harness etc for a short to ground, it had to have happened somewhere. No way the oil sensor wire is isolated from ground if you have it unplugged. sorry for typo's just got back home and it is late!
 
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