2086 Starter Problem

[tbengal]

In the past year I have experienced the same problem with 3 different starters. On an intermittent basis, I can turn the key and the starter will not crank. I then will turn the key off & on a few more times, then it starts. There have been times when I would then check the wire going to the solenoid for voltage, and I always have 12 volts when I turn the key. This is a 20HP Kawasaki, 1997 model year.

I have owned the tractor for 4 years, and this problem has been around for the last 3. The previous owner had disabled the seat switch and reverse switch.
Looking for suggestions!

 

[lbuttke]

Tim

Do you need to step on the break lever to start this tractor?

My 3235 needs to have the break down in order to crank over, and the switch there can be troublesom.

 

[bbranstetter]

Tim,

Here is a thread that I started with my Father in Laws Cub. http://tinyurl.com/5c9bfz He complained for two seasons how the thing wouldn't start right and after a few trips to the cub store, replacing the same key switch twice, he finally brought it to me. The cub shop failed to really trouble shoot the problem. Make sure that all you connections are clean, tight and if need be get a good electrical meter to check them all. Good luck!

 

[tbengal]

Lonny, I always step on the brake, but I think that safety switch has also been disabled.

Brian, Nice pics. What seems odd is that if I have 12 volts at the solenoid, then the starter should be cranking, shouldn't it!?

Do not know if there is a connection to my starter problem and this recent problem, After about 30 minutes of mowing, the electric PTO disengages. The PTO is only 2 years old. I just turn the PTO switch off, then on and it re-engages. A few years back I replaced this switch also. Would it be because the lawn is too bumpy?

 

[bbranstetter]

Tim,

Not neccissarly. I too had 12v at the end of the solenoid wire but after hooking the wire back up and sliding my meter probe on to the terminal while trying to start it I would only have 7.5v. I assume this is due to draw down from a solenid that is getting a little weak and needed some extra current to engage. The solenoid wire was 18 or 20 gage and was not capable of carrying the 10 to 12 amps that I measured inline when I found the problem. This is not to say that this is your specific problem, just some thing that I found.

Hope this helps
Brian

 

[tbengal]

Brian, if I should see a drop in voltage like you did, should I install a larger wire, or look at replacing the starter again?

 

[bbranstetter]

If you install a larger wire you'll just put the current load on the key switch, which isn't going to do ya any good because you'll be buying key switches. I just bought a decent 30amp automotive relay and eliminated the problem, or at least till the solenoid gets so bad that it burns that out to. In my opinion there should be a relay there any way, just to save the key switch but there again that's only my opinion.

Under edit
(Three staters, I missed that..sorry)

This just screams ground issues, you may also want to remove the starter and make sure the mounting points are clean and shiny so as to promote a good ground at the base of the starter. Good grounding is critical to having a low current draw which is the saving grace to switches. I don't know that particualr model to a T but there should be a ground strap or two going to the engine block, you may want to check and make sure those are intact and clean as well before you take any course of action. Grounding on the new Cubs is as critical as it was on the old ones. Don't be afraid to take a little emery cloth and make them bright and don't forget to add a little dielectric grease before putting back any electrical connection, it'll save you some work down the road.

Hope this helps

Good Luck.

 

[tbengal]

Brian, if I was to install a relay, would the existing wire that goes to the solenoid, now run to the relay? Then a larger wire from the relay is attached to the solenoid from the relay? Where is the power coming from that supplies the relay?

 

[tbengal]

Brian, I have discovered my multi-year intermittant problem! As I was looking closer at the green wire that goes to the PTO (it was chafed, so there was my intermittant PTO off problem), I proceeded to unwrap all the black tape (about 18") that held the green ground wires for the PTO, starter relay and the engine block ground. I was shocked to see all the ground wires were bare with no insulation, inside the tape! One of the wires had 6" of nothing in the tape, all corroded, gone! Some wires were soldered or butt-jointed to these bare ground wires. I can not believe it came from the factory like this! I have owned it for 4 years, unless the previous owner did all this?