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Tecumseh Hydro 705-002

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fcurrier

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Jul 5, 2004
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Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Is the engine a Tecumseh and the machine a Honda?
 
I got this far:
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From PartsTree.com Tecumseh 705-705-002
 
I know this isn't a tractor but I have a 10hp Tecumseh, model: 05527-0. Its of the S-5020 F series. I bought this engine at a garage sale a few summers back for $10, what a steal! When I first got it home I bolted on a spare tank I had, put in a bit of gas and it fired right up.

I did a bit of research not long after I got it and found out that this model of 10hp were used on 5000W generators and snowblowers, mine was a generator engine as on the side of the cowl there is a decal showing the gen stats.

Now to the problem at hand. Right now I have it mounted onto a wood base that I build for it, so that I can fire it up once in awhile. Right now I'm trying to get the carb tuned right. The air mix seems to be alright but I'm not sure on where the air mix, and fuel should be set at. Currently I have the fuel set to 1 3/4 turns as that's as lean as I can set it to without it hunting. What I'm worried about is that the exhaust is glowing red hot and I think it's the mixes, yes I know exhausts get hot but I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be glowing hot, I only noticed it cause of the fact that it was getting dark when I was running it. Any help would be great.
 
Christopher, I'm no expert on setting carbs but it sounds to me like you have it set too lean which will cause it to run hot.
 
I figured as much, where do you think I should set the carb to then? 2 maybe 2 3/4 turns?
 
Christopher, most directions I have seen for tuning carbs tell you to do it only after the mechanics are known to be good and especially after verifying that the timing is right. I'm going to assume that the engine is in good shape mechanically and that it is fired by a magneto which means there isn't any timing to worry about.

The next step is to turn the idle speed screw in so that the engine is starting to run off the main jets, not just the idle circuit. For a lawnmower engine, we're probably talking 1200 RPM or so, that is, a "fast" idle or slow "run" condition. Then, turn the mixture adjusting screw out until the engine starts to miss, or bog down, or the RPM drops even a little bit. Note the position of the screw, that is, turned straight up at 12:00 & 6:00 or horizontal at 3:00 & 9:00 or somewhere inbetween. Then start turning the screw in 1/2 revolution (from 12:00 to 6:00 etc.) at a time, pausing just a bit at each 1/2 turn to let the carburetor settle out a bit. You can also rev it up a bit to clear it out as you move the screw in. Keep turning the screw in until you again detect a miss, some stumbling, or any loss of RPM. Then back the screw out half the distance you screwed it in. You can repeat the process until you are satisfied you have found the "happy medium."

You can also start by turning the screw in until it stumbles and then back it out until it drops RPM and then screw it back in half the way to the "happy medium."

Some carburetors and engines are easier to tune than others. Most folks feel that a little rich is better than a little lean, so they will run 1/4 or 1/2 turn rich from the "happy medium." I used to try running a little lean, which it sounds you like to do, but fixing burnt valves and warped heads cured me; now I like to run just a tad rich.
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Thanks for the help, the engine in question is a 10hp Tecumseh, model: 05527-0. Its of the S-5020 F series. It runs at 3600RPM at idle I do believe. It was originally a generator engine and with its gen, could put out 5000 watts, or at least that's what it says for the Generator stats on the side of the shroud.
 
Most generator engines run at 3600rpm to keep the output of the generator at 60 hertz (cycles) and the governor is set to hold that RPM/voltage under various loads. Since the gov is set for high rpm, I'm not sure how easy it is to get the engine at a lower speed.
 
I'll just have to play around with the idle I suppose.
 
Christopher L. I'd still check with Outdoor Distributors. The FARMALL Regular tractor at first had a set governor instead of variable. It was designed for idle or full throttle. You may just need a kit to make your engine change over to a regular use engine instead of special useage. Keep us posted.
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I'll give them a call when I can and I'll keep you guys posted for sure as I plan on putting this 10hp of mine in ether a nice tractor or I'll use it for something else. The only thing (other then the throttle and such) that is a pain is that it has a tapered shaft on it.
 
Christopher L. You should be able to get a regular shaft for and and then greedbay the tapered shaft.
 
well I could also get a tapered pulley but they are pricey, and greedbay?
 
Christopher L. Greedbay is one of the nicknames for *bay. Also nicknamed evilpay, etc. I would call Outdoor Distributors and ask what the part number is for a regular shaft and how much it would be to buy one from them. Get all new seals and whatever else is needed and then sell your tapered shaft.
 
Alright, makes sense. I obviously need to learn up on my nicknames and such like that, so I'm pretty much putting in an entire new crank into it?
 
Christopher L. It is either that or buy the expensive tapered pulley.
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I think I just might go with the pulley, and hopefully its the style that is tightened down with grub screw as there is no key slot on the shaft.
 

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