Larry S., here's some photos of the hydraulic blade angle.
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Archive through September 03, 2008
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Gerry M,
Standing behind your Cub Cadet and facing forward, which side is the lever down by the seat you are asking about on? The only lever I can think of in that area is the hydro dump valve release lever that allows you to move you Cubby around after the engine is turned off, but those are typically on the right side.
Standing behind your Cub Cadet and facing forward, which side is the lever down by the seat you are asking about on? The only lever I can think of in that area is the hydro dump valve release lever that allows you to move you Cubby around after the engine is turned off, but those are typically on the right side.
jsilliman3
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- Jim Silliman III
This post will attest to my novice abilities but I'm posting anyway - Recently I had trouble getting drain plug out of creeper to change oil ('64 CC 100). Nothing worked so someone suggested torching/heating to get it out. My neighbor obliged and helped by trying that and also welding a hex nut to the end of the plug to try to get it out since it was rounded out. So my question is, this was all done while the creeper was still on the tractor. My neighbor was careful not to damage the gasket between the creeper and transmission but what is the likelyhood that some other o-ring or oil seal was damaged by my efforts (i.e. the heat)? I have a bad habit of plunging into these things then worrying after the fact.
I hate to keep posting this question, but I've been struggling with this issue all season.
I have a 1650.
I will be mowing for 30 - 45 minutes, and then the tractor will just stall. I wait 30 minutes or so, and it runs again.
In the past 12 months, I have replaced the points, plug, wire, battery, use the miracle oil, made sure the air flow is not blocked, etc...
Anyone have any ideas for this? It is so aggravating. I have 2 hours to mow, and have to stop and wait for things to cool down 1/3 of the way through. Thanks in advance for any help....
Ed
I have a 1650.
I will be mowing for 30 - 45 minutes, and then the tractor will just stall. I wait 30 minutes or so, and it runs again.
In the past 12 months, I have replaced the points, plug, wire, battery, use the miracle oil, made sure the air flow is not blocked, etc...
Anyone have any ideas for this? It is so aggravating. I have 2 hours to mow, and have to stop and wait for things to cool down 1/3 of the way through. Thanks in advance for any help....
Ed
Ed, I bet it's the condenser, one of my 125s did the exact same thing, replaced the condenser problem solved. Although not as likely, it could also be a plugged fuel tank vent, check the cap.
<font face="arial,helvetica"><font size="+1">
Kraig, Thanks for the pictures and information. It looks like it will be everything I will need to make the brackets and mount the cylinder on my blade.
Thanks again, very helpful.
Larry</font></font>
Kraig, Thanks for the pictures and information. It looks like it will be everything I will need to make the brackets and mount the cylinder on my blade.
Thanks again, very helpful.
Larry</font></font>
Gerry,
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Edward T:
I agree with Kraig as to the most likely culprits, but if ALL else checks ok, check the valve clearances - I've had a couple of flat heads that would run till everything expanded and then the valves couldn't seat as they were at almost zero clearance when cold.
I agree with Kraig as to the most likely culprits, but if ALL else checks ok, check the valve clearances - I've had a couple of flat heads that would run till everything expanded and then the valves couldn't seat as they were at almost zero clearance when cold.
I suppose it could be the coil and yes the condenser could be bad again. Any chance you have a spare Cub to borrow parts off of?
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- Allen Schumacher
Ed T. I had the same problem last summer. I messed up and ran out of gas but didnt shut off the ignition, guess points were closed, cooked coil. I could see a small amount of oil inside the tower for the sparkplug wire. As Kraig said, try a new cap first. Coils are around $40-$50!
Afternoon guys, I just got my $100 129 running today, runs pretty well puffs a bit of smoke when you throttle it up and does seem to miss a bit, valves maybe. I'll let it go for now till I get some good fuel with MMO through it and maybe it will clear up. I got an explosion of what looks like it was a mouse nest many years ago when it came to life. Shut it down and pulled most of the sheet metal off of the engine and ran it again for 5 minutes to get all the junk blown out from down there then cleaned cooling fins out. I'm pretty happy considering I only have maybe $130 in the whole thing.
I am concerned with one thing though, I think there is a flow problem with the hydro unit. I'm totally new to hydros but it will only go at a crawl in reverse and a slow walk forward. A friend has a 1250 that I rode on once and that thing was crazy fast if you pushed the drive lever all the way forward. So I think something needs attention here. I did notice that it looks to have a Fram filter on it, quite possibly an oil filter and not Hydro filter. I checked the fluid when I was going over it when I first got it and it was just below the plug on the rear cover so that should be fine. So where do I go from here?
New filter and fluid first? Now that I think of it anyone have the numbers for a wix brand filter (or Napa, same thing I think) for this if they make them or another top quality filter? Thanks guys. Mike.
Mike Reed, Yes the first thing would be a new filter and Hy-Tran. Here's a link to the FAQ entry on hydro filters:
HYDRO FILTERS
Mike M., yep same hood ornament as the 71 and as the 104.
HYDRO FILTERS
Mike M., yep same hood ornament as the 71 and as the 104.
Here's a link to the forum post where I posted the photos and info on the various filters that Travis cut apart. When you the page loads, scroll way down the page.
FILTER COMPARE
FILTER COMPARE
Edward,
I have another possibly fix for your problem.
The Exhaust Valve may be sticking open.
When the motor gets hot the valve may stick open, sticking to the valve guide. This will cause a loss of compression/no compression and the motor will shut down. You can try to restart the motor right away and it would turn over very easily, hense no compression.
This valve will close after the motor cools off, then you can run it again for 45 minutes, whatever, and it may happen again. If you are in a place where it is quiet you could hear the click of the valve closing after the motor cools off.
To fix this problem you will need to remove the valves, then run a 5/16" Valve Guide Reamer into the valve guide to clean it/remove the carbon build up. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you use a Valve Guide Reamer - Nothing else.
I have another possibly fix for your problem.
The Exhaust Valve may be sticking open.
When the motor gets hot the valve may stick open, sticking to the valve guide. This will cause a loss of compression/no compression and the motor will shut down. You can try to restart the motor right away and it would turn over very easily, hense no compression.
This valve will close after the motor cools off, then you can run it again for 45 minutes, whatever, and it may happen again. If you are in a place where it is quiet you could hear the click of the valve closing after the motor cools off.
To fix this problem you will need to remove the valves, then run a 5/16" Valve Guide Reamer into the valve guide to clean it/remove the carbon build up. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you use a Valve Guide Reamer - Nothing else.
