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Archive through May 23, 2008

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Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Brad C...
I've used NAPA on occasion, including a new muffler for the 149, points, condenser, air cleaner elements, headlights, etc. I work very close to the regional distribution store, so availability is good... BUT, you guys do not have parts for a K241 10hp kohler... (Rods, Piston, etc) One of the sponsors bailed me out, as usual, though... HTH
 
Guys,
Thanks for the compliments.

It seems to work pretty well, but may need some more refinment eventually. I'm thinking about adding a damper like the newer 2000 and 3000 series use. I'll have to see what I can do on the video. We have a digital (mini DVD) camcorder but I haven't tried putting the videos on the computer yet.

Art,
I have the spindles all figured out but I haven't started working on them yet. I'm working on the pump and valve mounting and plumbing now.
I want to get the loader done before I do the spindles. My dad has a set of wide tri ribs on standard 1" wheels and I'd like to bolt them on and see how they work once I get the loader up and running.
 
What kind of bearing does a 128 front wheel take? Id like to order one today while im at work...
 
Dustin, not sure of an after market P/N but CC Specialties has them P/N: IH-384881-R93 or IH-384881-R94, for $13 a set.
 
Brad C:
Went to NAPA twice looking for a small engine parts catalogue and was told that they should be in after the beginning of the year. The third time that I went in I was told that they wouldn't get me one and that the only copy that they had was theirs. I emailed NAPA asking about one and never got a response.
 
We don't have any NAPA's around Springfield, MO (home of O'Reilly Auto Parts) We have them and Auto Zone, neither of which carry any good L&G parts.
 
I bought a 1200 with a 16 hp kohler in it. The engine drive plate was shreaded. I bought a solid drive plate with stationary bushing. What I am thinking of doing is, have the solid drive plate bushing center machined out to the same id as the flex plate was. That will facilitate the floating pilot bearing. Has anyone tried this? If so, did it vibrate very much?
mike
 
planning on taking the motor off my 100 this weekend. wondering how to get the roll pins out of the driveshaft so i dont mess them up. want to fix my clutch and pto problems. kinda wanna fix problems rather than create them
 
Michael R.
Do a search for roll pin punch or just punch and see what you come up with that's been posted by others in the last month.
 
Michael M.
Why would anyone even want to is beyond me. It's hard to redesign something that's already a good setup.
Why not just replace everything with what works and not worry if it vibrates to much?
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Hello Charlie
It came with a 12 hp kohler. The 16 shreaded the flex engine plate. Just thought it might need a little extra hump. Did'nt know if anyone had changed engines before and had a problem. Don't want to spend $120 everytime it gets in a pull.
 
besides theese special punches is there any other alternative
 
The only other alternative is the use of a Pin tool that Kentucky Ken made. There were not many of them made and I kinda doubt that the 6 or so of them out there will surface again, anytime soon.
87005.jpg
 
I just installed my completely rebuilt K301 in a 1250. I also just pulled it back out because I thought the new motor was locking up. Well...something is locking up...not while running but after it is warmed up and I shut it off and try to restart it will not turn over.

It is not the starter - I can take it off and it still won't turn. If I put big channel locks on driveshaft and grunt I can get it "bumped loose" and then I hit the key and she starts fine. It has not happened after every run but never when cold and about four times of this I pulled the motor - not wanting any chance of ruining a $750 engine. The oil drain looked to me like a little alum was in there but later machine shop pointed out that it was just moly engine lube. They checked engine out and said it still looked new and nothing is wrong and it must be caused by something attached like the hydro. Mower shop and phone call to hydro shop verbally told me that they would still suspect the engine and machining or assembly error (both by machine shop).

I don't know what to think - I saw the rod and piston and don't see how they could be seizing. I know nothing about hydros but I wish I had removed driveshaft while problem was present...hindsight I guess - that moly lube in the oil scared me silly. Also - for what it is worth, the starter thud and channelock feel led me to think it was locked up on the motor side and not hydro. I am just scared to even bench run this thing right now.

Here is why this is such a long story...and sorry about that - I have two 1250s - my first one I decided to get the motor rebuilt over the winter. I then ran across this other non-running 1250 and bought it...you guys know how that goes...my wife reminds me all the time how senseless this all seems. I wanted to put my new motor on this second 1250 as it is a nice clean unit with hydraulic lift and hitch. I know little about this 1250 except it was a trade-in, smoked worse than anything, supposedly had lots spent on hydro (hmmm???)...I bought it for the snow blower and many extras but since it was cleaner unit I decided to fix it.
Any ideas - could this be hydro?
 
Joel Did you drive the 1250 when you had the engine installed? Did the hydraulic lift work?

It could be something in the hydro. You would need to disconnect the drive shaft to make sure.

Did you remove the PTO when you had the engine out? If you did how did you adjust it? Something on the PTO could also lock it up.
 
Michael Marion- If you are wanting to get away from the rag-joint/flex plate you could check out Midwestsupercub.net They have an alternative that will hold up. I used their complete clutch in my 14hp 1200 plowing tractor with great luck.
 
Why is there such a mystery behind these special pin punches? I'm used to finding these about anywhere. I bought mine many years back, can't remember if it was at Farm & Fleet or NAPA, or just where.
87007.jpg


If you can't find them locally, they're dirt cheap on the net: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/may25007.html
 
I've got a busted UD-6 Creeper that I need to disassemble. Does anyone know how they come apart? Don't want to start prying or beating on it without a little insight.
 
scott t., Looking in my catalog, I see plenty of listings for the K241(piston, rings, intake and exhaust valves, rods, muffler, and a full array of gaskets). email me next time you need a number.i have sierra and kohler numbers available.
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Thanks Richard - Yes, I drove it and the hydro drive and lift seemed to work. I know little about this yet but the lift seemed to have little range. The PTO was removed and I am not sure that the machine shop adjusted it, and I did not check it - probably dumb on my part. The pulley on PTO would spin and did not seem to be getting hot but I will adjust. I suppose I will bench run it, re-install, and if it happens again then disconnect driveshaft at the hydro and pull it.
 

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