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Archive through May 23, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I just bought a 149 that is in decent shape but I have some questions. First, will this engine fit a 1650? I have a 1650 that I like better but it needs an engine. Next, the 149 ran great for the test drive but when we went to load it it wouldn't start. The guy took jumper cables and hooked them to his car and then put each end straight to the S/G terminals to turn it over. It wouldn't start and that is where we found there was no spark from the plug. I put in a new plug today and it starts good with a jump and runs good. Once the jumper cables are removed it shuts off. Can the battery be that dead or could the starter been damaged and not charging?
On another topic, the hydro on this seems a bit slow. Much slower than the 1650 especially in reverse. Forward is fast enough to mow with but it doesn't scream like the 1650. Is this normal for the 149?
 
Disregard the statement about the hydro speed on the 149. The handle was not moving as far as it should. It is fixed now and it will fly, just like the 1650! Not that I mow that fast but I knew it should be faster.
 
Another roll pin removal tool taht works GREAT is a turned down (to proper size) air chisel bit. Works every time
 
Lots of spare parts headed to Nova Scotia:
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Damn, I love this job!
And I sure agree with Tom on the air chisel idea!
 
Joel, the first Kohler I built years ago would seize after it got good and warm. It would cool a bit and free up. Took it apart and saw no damage. Turned out the main bearings had no end play. The addition of a few spacer gaskets and all was fine. Before you or they reassemble your engine, make sure the mains have the proper clearance.
 
Update on the 149. I charged a battery and was able to mow, I used it for an hour or more. It ran fine but it did not charge the battery. I have found the post here on how to check the S/G. Where exactly are the brushes? Can you access them on the outside of the S/G without taking it off?
 
Chris T., you can replace brushes with the S/G mounted. Remove the bolts from the rear of the S/G(two bolts, 7/16 head size). You may have to use a flat blade screwdriver, with some light tapping with a hammer to remove the rear cover plate. After the rear plate is removed, you will have good view of the brushes. Hope this helps!

I picked up a solid 50A deck for my 682 today, and blew the dust off of the 128. Man, I need some cub work time!!!
 
Chris T, I forgot a step, after removing the two long S/G bolts you will need to remove the rear mounting bolt(S/G to engine mount). I have never replaced brushes, but just took a parts S/G apart to see the inside, out of curiousity.

Michael J., pliers,screwdriver,prybar, air hammer or BFH. Whatever you can use to get the job done without breaking parts. Go with it!
 
I got my roll pin punch from Snap-On, they are out there and not too difficult to find.....
 
I just got my copy of "A Corporate Tragedy" in the mail the other day.....not exactly a picture filled page turner, but from the first 2 chapters I can see it will be a complete history of the company....the details of the early mergers are very interesting.
 
Made WHERE??
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Steve: There's a thread started on the Sandbox on the Corporate Tragedy. Have you got to the part about mandantory overtime, yet? Surprised me!
 
Here is my $.02 on those roll pin punches;
I bought a set of them many years ago when I was working on these machines for a living. I thought they would be the cat's meow for those spirol pins. The problem I found was that the "hole" in the spirol pins isn't centered. If you put that small pilot in the hole, the punch wouldn't be centered in the pin and the punch would catch on the edge of the coupler or whatever the pin was in. If the pin was sticking part way out, the punch would mushroom the pin. If you tried to center the punch on the pin, it would find that non-centered hole anyway and still be off center.
So I really wasn't at all impressed with them. My solution was to grind the little pilot off the 1/4" punch and just use it normally. It sounds like some of you guys have better luck with them, but that is my experience. They work fine for normal roll pins (which aren't that hard to remove anyway), but not for spirol pins.

I keep threatening to make a punch for the air hammer as Tom suggested, but I haven't got around to it yet.
 
Todd M: You and I totally disagree about those spirol pin punches. If you are hanging up on the side, perhaps because of the non-centered hole, then you are probably just using one that's one size too big....However, you are correct that if they protrude, they have to be tapped in flush or ground off flush to prevent mushrooming.

I have had great success using them, and with my bone yard, I wouldn't be without them....Just my experience over the years.

Myron B
 
Hello all. the trip to Maine was great. i now have lots to repair and i know Charlie will love the orders that will come his way!
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the 107
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the 147
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The 125
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the O
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The fever is stong here in Nova Scotia lol
 
Myron B,
Am I wrong in thinking I should use the 1/4" punch for a 1/4" pin? I suppose if you used the next size smaller, it may work, but it will be easier to bend the punch. I usually drive them to flush with a larger tapered punch first so it doesn't get bent. This also helps break it loose so it will drive easier with the 1/4" straight punch.
 
Chris T
Try jiggling the key in the switch as it is running and see what happens with the ampmeter (learned a long time ago on my 1250). Might be time for a new switch.
 
Don,

Nice haul! Do you have to pay customs on those?
 
Christopher Cote (Ccote) , No i didn`t have to pay any tax because I was in the USA 4 days and i had noting much except the cubs to declare . It will take some time to get them back in good shape and running right. later Don T
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Planted a tree today. First I removed the bucket and added the front hoe. Then I dug the hole and planted.
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