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Archive through June 05, 2008
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kendall,
10:00 x 22's, and yepper it's a single axle for right now. It won't be long after I get it home.
10:00 x 22's, and yepper it's a single axle for right now. It won't be long after I get it home.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Charlie, I bet the cost to keep your 'office' airconditioned is gonna be a back breaker !
But then again you can go around a say "Look at all my Cool Cubs" !
But then again you can go around a say "Look at all my Cool Cubs" !
Todd,
Yep, that's what my bud's coworkers (he's a machinist) kept saying on the late 80s GM trucks' fuel pumps. He never drove over a few days without being stuck somewhere, and the guy that bought it (after the third pump change) never has had trouble with it.
Dennis,
I couldn't remember if the oil thing was a contention or not (and was afraid I was fanning a potential fire). But, I did remember finding that as a "thing to try." Again, I can't nail down whether it's the direct cause. But, I've drunk the kool-aid, apparently, as I've not had trouble with the 129 since, and I'm adding Marvell to my later-model 25hp off-topic yellow and white yard tractor that I bought last fall.
Yep, that's what my bud's coworkers (he's a machinist) kept saying on the late 80s GM trucks' fuel pumps. He never drove over a few days without being stuck somewhere, and the guy that bought it (after the third pump change) never has had trouble with it.
Dennis,
I couldn't remember if the oil thing was a contention or not (and was afraid I was fanning a potential fire). But, I did remember finding that as a "thing to try." Again, I can't nail down whether it's the direct cause. But, I've drunk the kool-aid, apparently, as I've not had trouble with the 129 since, and I'm adding Marvell to my later-model 25hp off-topic yellow and white yard tractor that I bought last fall.
Most of these engines would have been designed to run on leaded fuel and the lead was a lubricant. Is this why MMO is being added to the fuel? I read these posts, so when I put fuel in the 1250, I looked around the garage and found some Lucas Fuel Treatment, which also claims to clean and lubricate, and added it.
Are any of these types of products OK, or are there other reasons to use MMO, or SeaFoam?
Sorry if I am beating a dead horse.
Are any of these types of products OK, or are there other reasons to use MMO, or SeaFoam?
Sorry if I am beating a dead horse.
Back to my mower deck (48") and subframe issues.
I know that I have a "humpback" subframe for the "A" decks. But someone posted that it should also have an angled mule drive. On the 48" deck the drive pulley is under the center of the mower and subframe. On the "A" decks the center pulley is located a few inches left of tractor center.
What would I be looking for to confirm that I have the proper mule drive for a 44A or 50A deck? Just like the subframe, I cannot see any difference in the parts diagrams.
All help is appreciated.
I know that I have a "humpback" subframe for the "A" decks. But someone posted that it should also have an angled mule drive. On the 48" deck the drive pulley is under the center of the mower and subframe. On the "A" decks the center pulley is located a few inches left of tractor center.
What would I be looking for to confirm that I have the proper mule drive for a 44A or 50A deck? Just like the subframe, I cannot see any difference in the parts diagrams.
All help is appreciated.
Ken,
I'm more of a reader than a poster of the forum here (but, I doubt if I've skipped 10% of the days postings in several years -- man, this is a great site/forum).... so, I'm probably the wrong person to have brought this up, or to be terribly knowledgeable about this... that said, my understanding of the argument about MMO is that it acts as a detergent in the gas to break down the deposits that are notorious about forming around the valve and valve-guide areas in particular (and particularly with some types of engine oils -- allegedly multi-grade and synthetic, versus straight grade non-synth). I suspect that I've probably brought up a re-occurring theme of debate, and didn't mean to (I'm about half-Amish in that regard). But, like I said, I'm sold on the stuff (no matter how unprepared I am to back up my actions). LOL.
I'm more of a reader than a poster of the forum here (but, I doubt if I've skipped 10% of the days postings in several years -- man, this is a great site/forum).... so, I'm probably the wrong person to have brought this up, or to be terribly knowledgeable about this... that said, my understanding of the argument about MMO is that it acts as a detergent in the gas to break down the deposits that are notorious about forming around the valve and valve-guide areas in particular (and particularly with some types of engine oils -- allegedly multi-grade and synthetic, versus straight grade non-synth). I suspect that I've probably brought up a re-occurring theme of debate, and didn't mean to (I'm about half-Amish in that regard). But, like I said, I'm sold on the stuff (no matter how unprepared I am to back up my actions). LOL.
Ken F.
That's why it's always a good idea to get manuals when you buy somethin new.
At least they give ya a starting point, sometimes they help, sometimes they make things worse.
That's why it's always a good idea to get manuals when you buy somethin new.
At least they give ya a starting point, sometimes they help, sometimes they make things worse.
Ken F,
Look at the arms that support your two idler pulleys on your mule drive. There should be a about an approximate 5-10 degree twist in them which angles the pulleys towards the left of the Cubby (standing behind the tractor of course).
Look at the arms that support your two idler pulleys on your mule drive. There should be a about an approximate 5-10 degree twist in them which angles the pulleys towards the left of the Cubby (standing behind the tractor of course).
Charlie,
I know you love your cubs, but keeping them air conditioned so they are comfortable on those hot Minnesota days? I hope you don't knit them sweaters for the winter, or we might need to get you some help.
I know you love your cubs, but keeping them air conditioned so they are comfortable on those hot Minnesota days? I hope you don't knit them sweaters for the winter, or we might need to get you some help.
Tornadoes in Calvert County, who knew? LOL
Freaking news choppers kept me up all night, buzzin all round the damage areas, tells you how interesting things round here really are
On another note, the ol 149 is almost done, gotta put the engine back together startin tomorrow, and paint and thats it.
Freaking news choppers kept me up all night, buzzin all round the damage areas, tells you how interesting things round here really are
On another note, the ol 149 is almost done, gotta put the engine back together startin tomorrow, and paint and thats it.
kwingerson
Active member
- Joined
- May 19, 2007
- Messages
- 30
- displayname
- Kent Wingerson
Russell,
Thanks for the story of your experience. I still need to get going with an gas additive - just didn't seem to be an issue in the past.
I'm still trying to figure out a sleeve or bushing to go on the carb choke shaft to snug it up. A Cub parts shop told me about $100 to replace the carb.
Kent
Thanks for the story of your experience. I still need to get going with an gas additive - just didn't seem to be an issue in the past.
I'm still trying to figure out a sleeve or bushing to go on the carb choke shaft to snug it up. A Cub parts shop told me about $100 to replace the carb.
Kent
bbrigham
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
- Messages
- 1,000
- displayname
- Brendan Brigham
Charlie...$700..COOL, I've seen most of them around here for at least $1500 for one's that has been deemed not road worthy. Good buy.
Had a good Cub day, got my air filter adapter made, hydro filter mounted, cylinder mounted...don't like the rear mount though will re-do that, the valve and hoses are not mounted yet though. Hmmm...was somethin else but can't seem to remember
Had a good Cub day, got my air filter adapter made, hydro filter mounted, cylinder mounted...don't like the rear mount though will re-do that, the valve and hoses are not mounted yet though. Hmmm...was somethin else but can't seem to remember
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Since we're talking about <font color="ff0000">MMO</font>, here is a little warning for you. I was in a hurry and grabbed a bottle of <font color="ff0000">MMO</font> at a local gas station last fall.
This past weekend as I almosted used up the remainder of it, I noticed that it wasn't traditional <font color="ff0000">MMO</font> but was some sort of a <font color="ff0000">MMO</font>-branded fuel treatment.
The bottle looks exactly like a bottle of "normal" MMO, except for the words "Super Gas Treatment" on the lower front label.
I'm betting it's not bad for the engine, but I think it's more of a cleaner than a lubricator like the standard <font color="ff0000">MMO</font>. Just something to keep an eye out for...
Brendan-
Neat air-filter-thingie!
Charlie-
You know what they say about a guy with small tires on his tractor trailer rig.....
This past weekend as I almosted used up the remainder of it, I noticed that it wasn't traditional <font color="ff0000">MMO</font> but was some sort of a <font color="ff0000">MMO</font>-branded fuel treatment.
The bottle looks exactly like a bottle of "normal" MMO, except for the words "Super Gas Treatment" on the lower front label.
I'm betting it's not bad for the engine, but I think it's more of a cleaner than a lubricator like the standard <font color="ff0000">MMO</font>. Just something to keep an eye out for...
Brendan-
Neat air-filter-thingie!
Charlie-
You know what they say about a guy with small tires on his tractor trailer rig.....
