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jclazar
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I got it! The folks next door got a new car, while the guy across the street got a new 1961 IH Cub Cadet! Everyone was more interested in the Cub Cadet!!!!
Archive through February 26, 2017
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jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
I wish I had a model holding these parts in her hands, I would be more likely to get a response.
The safety switch in the starting circuit of my 149, and that is actuated by the manual PTO lever, came apart during our recent cold snap. [Cold snap being a relative term: anything below 50 degrees at night is considered a cold snap around here (sorry Charlie).] The trouble is, the switch doesn't work right if assembled with the parts shown; there is nothing pushing the button out, so that if it were mounted with the tip pointed up, it could slide back and short the terminals, until the next bump, that is. The switch is mounted tip down in the tractor, but I am pretty sure there is supposed to be a spring pressing the button out, away from the contacts. The spring shown, that I pulled out of the switch, only serves to press against the fiber -board to which the terminals are mounted; that is, the spring only served to eventually eject the only part I care about, the one that allows me to start my tractor with a key.
Any help would be appreciated, and yes, a new replacement switch P/N 925-3038 is available from Cub Cadet, CC Specialties lists it for $38.00. I reassembled the "other" neutral starting switch, at the brake pedal, and it is doing just fine, four years on. I'm just looking for guidance on what to look for under the tractor and around the shed before I drop some hard-earned money on a replacement part.
Thanks in advance.
The safety switch in the starting circuit of my 149, and that is actuated by the manual PTO lever, came apart during our recent cold snap. [Cold snap being a relative term: anything below 50 degrees at night is considered a cold snap around here (sorry Charlie).] The trouble is, the switch doesn't work right if assembled with the parts shown; there is nothing pushing the button out, so that if it were mounted with the tip pointed up, it could slide back and short the terminals, until the next bump, that is. The switch is mounted tip down in the tractor, but I am pretty sure there is supposed to be a spring pressing the button out, away from the contacts. The spring shown, that I pulled out of the switch, only serves to press against the fiber -board to which the terminals are mounted; that is, the spring only served to eventually eject the only part I care about, the one that allows me to start my tractor with a key.
Any help would be appreciated, and yes, a new replacement switch P/N 925-3038 is available from Cub Cadet, CC Specialties lists it for $38.00. I reassembled the "other" neutral starting switch, at the brake pedal, and it is doing just fine, four years on. I'm just looking for guidance on what to look for under the tractor and around the shed before I drop some hard-earned money on a replacement part.
Thanks in advance.
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Jeremiah- This is just a guess but I think there would be a metal disc between the spring and the plunger. Assembled it would push the plunger out. Push it in the metal disc would contact the two contacts to make a circuit.
Nate
Nate
You are missing the little rubber boot that goes around the plunger end. That helps push the plunger out also. The small end of the boot goes in the groove at the very end on the plunger. Look at the picture on the CCS site for that part.
I'd buy a new one and be done w/it.
I'd buy a new one and be done w/it.
Jeremiah,
Go to your local Case-IH dealer and you should be able to get a new one that's made for a 154 Lo-Boy for around $11.00.
Go to your local Case-IH dealer and you should be able to get a new one that's made for a 154 Lo-Boy for around $11.00.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Thanks, Digger, I'll give that a shot.
Nate: I remember a disk or cup from my previous disassembly of the brake-activated switch.
Dave: The rubber boot is long-gone; but I still think there must be a spring missing.
All, I suppose the disk (or inverted cup) could have been between the spring shown and the actuating rod, but it certainly seems to be a stiff spring for the purpose, it is still takes more force than I think necessary to compress it, but maybe they built things tougher in the old days.
Edit: Charlie: The package labels are identical, but the contents certainly aren't.
Nate: I remember a disk or cup from my previous disassembly of the brake-activated switch.
Dave: The rubber boot is long-gone; but I still think there must be a spring missing.
All, I suppose the disk (or inverted cup) could have been between the spring shown and the actuating rod, but it certainly seems to be a stiff spring for the purpose, it is still takes more force than I think necessary to compress it, but maybe they built things tougher in the old days.
Edit: Charlie: The package labels are identical, but the contents certainly aren't.
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I purchased a 682 at the Florida Flywheelers last week. It had a 16HP Briggs M#303447. Drive shaft was jury rigged off center causing major vibe at engine. I know this came with a Kohler KT17 which I have a good one. Does anyone know what Cub used the Briggs. It says Cub Cadet on air cleaner. I know how to reconfigure drive shaft for the Kohler. Don't know what adapter looked like for Briggs to Driveshaft coupler.
