Archive through April 15, 2014

[hydroharry]

Brian E - one more thing. It's nice to have both the Kohler K series manuals but I myself would set them aside and use the IH CC Service Manual. You can get a copy by going back to near the top of this page, click on Topics, then scroll down to the thread for Manuals, then select the Tractor Service Manual link, then select 1x4/5 Service Manual. This is the IHCC Service Manual and section 1 is all about the specific Kohler engine in your 124. Here is a link that may be easier to get to: http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5%20Service%20Manual.pdf

I also just thought you might have a problem with your Governor. Might be worth checking the adjustment, which is also in the manual.

 

[bellwood]

@Harry: Thanks for the comments... I'll have to go one step at a time...

My neighbor was giving me his best judgement based on what he's seen in his day and offered to help me do the rebuild versus sending it to a shop...

I really have no experience with small engines so we'll be going step by step and I'm sure asking a lot of questions =)

I'll take a video this weekend

 

[hydroharry]

Steve S: Nicely done. Those 7 little horses seem to handle the tiller well.

 

[bellwood]

@Harry: Thanks for the direct link... I'll add that to my binder =)

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - ok, got a better understanding of your neighbor. He doesn't necessarily have a bad idea considering the engine is pushing 50+ years. But I still recommend trying to find and fix the problem before deciding to proceed with an overhaul. Have yourself some fun here taking each of these a step at a time. Good luck with it and keep us posted. The video might just help. I'm hoping you can get it to run long enough to make sure the timing is set correctly. There is a section on the IH CC Service Manual on setting the timing for your engine. That link does take a little time to download as well (sometimes alot of time).

 

[bellwood]

@Harry: It did take some time but I got it!

RE: Sparkplugs alternatives, can you make a suggestion?

 

[mfrade]

Brian E., F.A.Q.'s at the top, has this,

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/SparkPlugCrossReferenceChart.htm

 

[jgoodine]

Steve tks for sharing video, I just could not really enjoy it I was so nervous you were gonna chop that garden hose up.

That is a beautiful 73, the 8hp seems to work really well with tiller even with both extensions

 

[jmware]

Hey I need some advice/opinion on what to do to my 147. 13 years ago I put in a new engine and everything from the flywheel to the input shaft on the hydo. I got it back together and it all seemed fine till the pin in the drive hub sheered off after only 2 years of use. I managed to drill another hole in the drive shaft and inserted a bolt. That worked, but with the drive shaft shield removed, I could see the hub and drive shaft was wobbling out of round and that was why the pin only lasted 2 years. (about 150 hours of use) Since then I get about 2 years before the bolt wears out and I put in a new one. The drive shaft was getting very close to breaking from where the bolt was wearing on it and I decided to fix this. Splitting the tractor revealed that the back of the drive shaft and the rear coupler was damaged too. Flex disc looked fine. 13 years ago when I installed the new drive shaft coupler on the hydro input shaft, I used a bolt. I now know that was a mistake. The input shaft is a little worn but not nearly as bad as the coupler or the drive shaft. The hole in the input shaft is now worn and I am sure a 1/4" spring pin would not hold.
Back to the front of the drive shaft, I measured how much wobble/out of round it had, a little over .035. I have replaced the flywheel cup and the drive hub and the front is now pretty close to perfectly true. My question is, do I go back with the original hub/pin arrangement or do I get a front rag setup like a 1450 has? I would lean towards the rag setup but I don't know what to use in the back. The 1450 manual shows a drive shaft with the welded crossbar and 1 flex disc. It further states that on later models they will have 2 discs. When I look at partstree they show a different drive shaft (no welded crossbar) and a different rear coupler with a centering gizmo in it. So I don't know what to do in the front because I don't know what I would do in the back.
I also need to address the problem of the worn and elongated hole in the hydro input shaft. Based on 13 years (about 1000 hours) with a bolt and a drive shaft being spun .035 out of round, the wear is not that bad. I know I need a new coupling arm in the back but how do I attach it? I could use a bolt and I think it would go at least another 10 years, but by then the input shaft to the hydro would likely be ruined. I could drill a 5/16 hole and use a larger spring coil or I could drill another 1/4 hole in the input shaft and put a spring coil in and move the hole back a little to get the coupling arm a little more unworn shaft to ride on. If someone has a rag joint conversion that they have worked with and feel it will last, let me know as I would like to do that. If not, then I think the unpopular but proven hub and pin in the front might be the way to go. This is stressing me and its why I am asking for help.
I have owned this 147 since I helped the mechanic take it out of the shipping crate in May of 1971. We have mowed a 3.5 acre lawn that is mostly hillside for 42 years. I am the only one who has ever worked on it. I don't want to experiment, I want to know what will work this year and hopefully 10 years from now. Thanks for any input.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - I see Mike gave you a link to the Charlie's FAQ's. If you want to see them all look to the top of this page for a link in the dark red letters. That takes you to the Forum FAQ's. At the top of the page with the Forum FAQ's is a link to Charlie's FAQ's, which is where Mike got the Spark Plug cross references.
For what it's worth I only ever used the Champion H10C. I think most others on here probably now recommend the Autolite 216 plug.

John Ware - here is a BIG handshake welcome to the IH Cub Cadet Forum. We don't get to many if any, original Owners on here. This is certainly the place you'll get some help and answers to your questions.

I'm gonna somewhat shy away from recommendations on your drive shaft since it's not my area of forte. I do think the problem at the rear of the shaft would most easily be addressed by just drilling a larger input and using the next size spring roll pin.

However, to completely resolve your problem I think you'll also have to re-address the front, which sounds like the problem started. The slot in the coupler is a commonly known wear item, but the key to long life is going back to use of an original solid pin. I'm surprised you got about 2 years out of a bolt. You may be able to get by with your current coupler but you'll need a good drive shaft (I suppose new) with accurate size hole. But lets also see what others provide for recommendations.

I know several knowledgeable members have done the rag joint conversions but not sure it has been done on a Narrow Frame 147. You could check the FAQ's link (dark red letters) at the top of this page, and then go to Charlie's FAQ's. I think there is discussion of a U=joint type conversion but that to me is really involved and you don't have the removable access cover on the frame making it much harder to get at the rear. I believe any conversion you attempt is going to require good accuracy and hard to do without that access. I came back under edit to provide you the link - http://cubfaq.com/davek.html


I'll be checking back tomorrow for other responses. Good luck with your resolution here and make sure you come back often. We'd like to hear more of your original Owner experiences over the 42 years you've used your 147. And we'd certainly love to see some pictures of your 147.

Welcome again to the original and best IH Cub Cadet Forum on the internet.