I have a 1862 that the pto clutch has been acting up on,spoke to friend and he told me to check the ignition switch, i did that and found lots of rust/corosion.I atempted to clean the spades on the switch with little success,all the diagrams that i have seen on here show the switch with 5 spades but mine has 6 and don't seem to be finding any 6 spaded switches any help would be great.
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1862 ignition switch
- Thread starter sgrenier
- Start date
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Scotty G.
The 1862 came from the factory with a 5 spade switch.
That being said, you never know what the previous owner put in.
So the question is, Do you have a connector that connects to the switch that has 6 holes or 5?
The 1862 came from the factory with a 5 spade switch.
That being said, you never know what the previous owner put in.
So the question is, Do you have a connector that connects to the switch that has 6 holes or 5?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Somebody's been in there before you. From the factory they would have been in a plastic connector, no heat shrink tubing.
this old jewell has been sitting for about 7 years that i know of and this is the only problem i have found so far. after i cleaned the switch up the best i could i reassembled and i could get the clutch to run under no load but it would pop the fuse.
thanks to all for the help i just joined yesterday and have found alot of usefull info,but this one has me stumped
thanks to all for the help i just joined yesterday and have found alot of usefull info,but this one has me stumped
mgonitzke
Well-known member
If you're blowing the fuse, you have a short somewhere. This series is notorious for wiring issues.
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- Allen Schumacher
Scotty...I hope others will help out here, but I remember that the electric clutches sometimes had the potting material that holds the wire coil in place fall apart. If that coil shorts out in its housing, I guess you might get a delayed fuse blow out. <font size="-2">Just a thought...</font>
mgonitzke
Well-known member
The PTO clutch should be 4-6 ohms with an ohmmeter.
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- Allen Schumacher
I've never worked with a electric clutch, but there have been pictures here with them apart showing loose coils. Dont know what it takes to get front off to look at the coil.
Check the ohms as Matt said, if they look improper then maybe try to look inside.
Check the ohms as Matt said, if they look improper then maybe try to look inside.
every thing i have checked so far seems to be up to par other than the wireing, i've taken all the loom and tape off the harness and have been tracing wires.
the one thing that i have noticed on the 6th spade on my ignition switch is a green wire that seems to be a ground wire,it appears that it grounds through the switch(housing) but where the switch is mounted in the dash is plastic. my other thing is the black wire that feeds 12v to the switch has a fuse, when i engauge the pto this fuse blows. shouldn't this kill all power to the tractor? It does not it kills power to the pto but nothing else that i can tell. could i have bad ground somewhere causeing 12v to backfeed and keep power to the tractor
jchamberlin
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Scotty, the ground at the switch kills the motor by grounding out the magneto. The fuse is on the line from the Battery to the Ignition switch, so if its blowing, then there is a short somewhere downstream of the ignition. I would try disconnecting things until you find the circuit with the short. For instance, disconnect the PTO and see if the fuse blows. Another common culprit are light bulbs, they can short out to the frame and cause other odd things to happen.
A cheaper way to do the same thing (fuses cost money) is disconnect the battery and work the switch with an ohm meter connected to see which contact grounds out.
If you feel comfortable removing contacts from the ignition switch connector, or using jumper wires, you can quickly isolate the circuit with the short in it. If the contact at the "R" terminal is shorted, the alternator or alternator wire, has burned out to ground; if the contact at the "L" terminal is grounded, one of the lamps, or lamp wires, is shorted to ground; if the contact at the "M" terminal is grounded, then there is a short at the Magneto, etc. etc.
Just some thoughts.
Good luck
A cheaper way to do the same thing (fuses cost money) is disconnect the battery and work the switch with an ohm meter connected to see which contact grounds out.
If you feel comfortable removing contacts from the ignition switch connector, or using jumper wires, you can quickly isolate the circuit with the short in it. If the contact at the "R" terminal is shorted, the alternator or alternator wire, has burned out to ground; if the contact at the "L" terminal is grounded, one of the lamps, or lamp wires, is shorted to ground; if the contact at the "M" terminal is grounded, then there is a short at the Magneto, etc. etc.
Just some thoughts.
Good luck
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