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Thanks Terry! That shows me exactly what I need to know.

Greetings all, Below is a picture of the refurbished cam levers that apply the brakes at the calipers on my 126 under restoration. They had been badly worn on the corners indicated by the arrows. The previous owner had quite sloppily welded the corners, so I machined out that weld and had a...

Thanks Dennis. I’ve been taking advice from a guy who builds custom motorcycles, so he’s probably got me over-thinking this whole process. He’s instilled the clean thing into me as well. I’ve seen pictures of the CC assembly lines with the paint being applied to an assembled chassis, but I...

Hi all, My Cub Cadet 126 project is well underway. The tractor has been completely disassembled, including the transmission and differential. Most of the parts are back from the sandblaster, and are in primer. Sheet metal repair and bodywork is underway where needed. I’m looking forward to...

I posted a question back on the 22nd regarding the trouble I was having separating the ‘Clutch and brake pedal arm’ from the ‘Clutch and brake pedal assembly’ (shaft) on my 126 being torn down for the sand blaster. I wanted to thank Terry Davis for his response. I have another question. This...

Hi all, I have a question. I’ve been disassembling my 126 project tractor for the sand blaster, and I’m having difficulty getting the ‘Arm, clutch and brake pedal’ separated from the Pedal Assy, clutch and brake’ (I refer to the parts by their names in the Cub Cadet parts diagrams)...

Steve and Matt, Thank you for taking the time to explain that, as well as explaining the health risks. There is an awful lot to consider here. I’m getting a much better picture of what I need.

Jim and Charlie, Thanks for responding. Could you explain what is meant by a ‘slow thinner’, and how a slow thinner will give me better results vs. the opposite (fast thinner I presume)? I am new to all of these terms, so when I go shopping for supplies, I either want to be familiar with...

Steve, I’d seen that mentioned before, clocking the plug about 30 degrees from vertical… I figure this way, I can clock it vertically, and not make a mess when I fill and check fluid level. Plus if I vent the plug, it’s less likely to leak.

Greetings again, I have a question regarding paint. This is an area I have little knowledge in. I have a paint gun, and I’ve painted stuff with it before, just nothing like a car, or a tractor that I just want to look nice. I have done some searching here and on other forums, but would feel a...

Greetings all, Several weeks ago, I was here seeking advice whether or not to rebuild and use the electric lift that came on my 126 project tractor, or to come up with some other plan to operate the Cat 0 3-point lift I am installing. As a result of those discussions, I was able to get my...

Hi all, I recently purchased a hydraulic lift unit that I am going to use in place the electric lift on my 126. I am in the process of rebuilding the pump and cylinder. I was wondering if anybody who has done this before has any suggestions as to what to use for replacement O-rings. None of the...

Harry and Bill. I wasn’t planning to pick up a project tractor that had already been cleaned up, but after pricing some rusty old tractors that were less than complete, this one came along, complete with creeper gear and electric lift, and the price was right. I’m not sure just how much it was...

Thanks everybody for the input and guidance. I think I will go ahead and rebuild my electric lift actuator, and install a spring assist as well. I figure if the electric lift doesn’t have the grunt to lift the attachments after I rebuild it, I can always go to plan B, either an aftermarket...

Kraig, That illustration makes it a heck of a lot easier to understand how the spring assist is connected to the rockshaft. Thank you! Bruce, I have seen new replacement motor assemblies online, for around $190 (motor only). That is an option, but I’ll still need to weigh that and the cost...

Harry, Thanks for your input on the hydraulic lift. It looks like my options are back to either rebuilding the stock actuator, or installing a newer ballscrew drive actuator. The box blade I have under consideration weighs about 120 lbs., so it’s not all that heavy, as I know some can be. The...

Well, I have to admit, the purpose of this project is primarily to build a big, but useful toy. I have convinced myself (and my wife) that I can use the tractor to do the work around the yard that my 2130 can’t do all that well anymore, such as pulling a box blade, pulling the cart loaded with...

Melody, I would think that it would require at least the same amount of force to lift a plow, in an arc no less, with a Cub Cadet sleeve hitch as it would the relatively level lift of a 3-point hitch. Maybe my actuator is just tired, and needs a rebuild. I should probably check the battery...

Greetings All, I’m new to the forum, new to restoring old Cub Cadet tractors, and I’m starting on my first restoration project. My project is a recently purchased model 126 that is equipped with the optional electric lift. It does not have the Cub Cadet so called ‘three-point hitch’, and I...