Is there a better one of the IH Cadets?

[mgonitzke]

The axle flange is a weak (relatively) spot on the earlier models. At some point they changed the design to where there is a much smoother transition from hub to axle shaft.

There is also a very ugly slight diameter/surface finish transition at about half the length of the axle, which unfortunately is where the bending loads are highest, so they can break there with wide offset wheels or duals and a lot of weight on the chassis.

 

[jdrong]

Has anyone here ever broken an axle using any CC for its factory intended use? What I am asking is, have you broken an axle yourself or only read about it?

 

[mgonitzke]

There have been several posted here over the years. It is not common, but happens. Mostly on over-weighted loader tractors with duals.

Haven't broken one myself...I don't abuse my equipment or try to do jobs better suited to a larger machine.

 

[mgwin]

My 100 still has the spindles it was born with. Nothing has been modified. Fixed it up mostly to show, but is fully functional.
With normal use and maintenance, these tractors will outlast us!

 

[jlord]

Yeah, I have. I've got a 1976 CC 1650 with a #14 Work Horse front-end loader on it. Got loaded AG tires and about 300lb of counter weight on the back. Added that because when I try to lift a bucket full of 3/4 minus, it would almost lift the rear tires off the ground and I couldn't backup, just spin the tires.

I twisted the spline stub off the right rear axle at the spider gear in the diff. I was trying to excavate undisturbed hillside earth (about 3 feet deep) behind my shop because ground water was going thru the block wall during winter rains. There was never any sealant or water barrier installed by the builder 60 years ago. Tried to do this during the summer in Oregon, ground is as hard as concrete. That was a mistake.

I was trying to peel-off 3 or 4 inches at a pass, but couldn't get enough traction with an added 100# (400lb total) in the weight box. I was kind of getting a running start of 3 or 4 feet and that's when it happened. I guess I got enough traction then! A true testament for the power of these hydrostatic transmissions.

In short, the axle didn't fail/break because of the weight, it was from the shock load I was putting on it from "ramming" the bucket into "hard-pan" soil with maximum torque being applied to the axles thru the drive-train. When the bucket would hit, I would only get 6 or 8 inches of progress, I was asking too much and abused it, my bad.

 

[jdrong]

Yeah, I have. I've got a 1976 CC 1650 with a #14 Work Horse front-end loader on it. Got loaded AG tires and about 300lb of counter weight on the back. Added that because when I try to lift a bucket full of 3/4 minus, it would almost lift the rear tires off the ground and I couldn't backup, just spin the tires.

I twisted the spline stub off the right rear axle at the spider gear in the diff. I was trying to excavate undisturbed hillside earth (about 3 feet deep) behind my shop because ground water was going thru the block wall during winter rains. There was never any sealant or water barrier installed by the builder 60 years ago. Tried to do this during the summer in Oregon, ground is as hard as concrete. That was a mistake.

I was trying to peel-off 3 or 4 inches at a pass, but couldn't get enough traction with an added 100# (400lb total) in the weight box. I was kind of getting a running start of 3 or 4 feet and that's when it happened. I guess I got enough traction then! A true testament for the power of these hydrostatic transmissions.

In short, the axle didn't fail/break because of the weight, it was from the shock load I was putting on it from "ramming" the bucket into "hard-pan" soil with maximum torque being applied to the axles thru the drive-train. When the bucket would hit, I would only get 6 or 8 inches of progress, I was asking too much and abused it, my bad.

Whatever your theory for breaking an axle is, you were pushing your CC far beyond its intended use. The number splines on your axle had nothing to do with the failure. I'm surprised the front spindles and axle haven't failed.... Yet.

 

[jlord]

Whatever your theory for breaking an axle is, you were pushing your CC far beyond its intended use. The number splines on your axle had nothing to do with the failure. I'm surprised the front spindles and axle haven't failed.... Yet.

I never said the splines on the axle had anything to do with the failure. The splines did NOT fail. I twisted the end of the axle off were the splines stop and the smooth portion of the axle begins.

I figured the failure resulted from good traction, the high torque output of the hydrostatic trans and an excessive shock load caused by me trying to ram the cutting edge of the bucket into virgin "hard-pan" earth.

As far as the front axle goes, it was replaced with a job rated one that I custom fabricated of 2x4, 1/4" wall thickness structural box steel, pivoting on an upgraded sized 3/4" dia. grade 8 bolt. Thru sleeved it with 1/2" wall thickness high pressure hydraulic pipe, pressed in bronze bushings with zerk's for greasing and reinforced that frame area of the CC. Custom fabricated steering knuckles with 1" spindles and 5 lug hubs. Wheels, tires (E rating) and bearings will easily handle 1500lb down weight.

At some point in the future, I plan on getting either a Case, Cat or JCB 4WD front-end loader/ backhoe with the 4in1 bucket to do the heavy work around my 5 acres of forest land.

In the meantime, I won't be asking the CC1650 to do anything other than smoothing the 500 foot driveway with the Gannon “Earthcavator", moving around 3/4 minus rock for said driveway patching, loading mulch and turning over the compost pile.

 

[jdrong]

I never said the splines on the axle had anything to do with the failure. The splines did NOT fail. I twisted the end of the axle off were the splines stop and the smooth portion of the axle begins.

Ok, But I didn't ask how to break an axle. I asked if anyone had an axle failure with normal factory intended use.

 

[jamarks]

My favorite out of my collection is my 128. It was, at some point before I got it, repowered with a 14 hp. I beefed up the clutch with a red spring and added 10.50 ag tires, and I haven't run across much it wouldn't handle since then.

What is a “RED SPRING” for the clutch?

 

[jlord]

jdrong said ~ "Ok, But I didn't ask how to break an axle. I asked if anyone had an axle failure with normal factory intended use."

You're right, good point. Considering what it took for me to break mine, I can't imagine one breaking from "normal" use, large or small spline.

 

[mgwin]

Red spring is a stiffer spring. Should allow for more strength pulling, before the clutch starts slipping. Under normal use, the standard spring should work fine.