has anyone built a custom driveshaft for a hydro? I'm having trouble finding suitable u-joints to mate up to the 5/8" input shaft of the pump. I'm contemplating using aftermarket billet steering u-joints like those from Flaming River. There not rated for such use of course, but they do have sealed needle bearings and I can get one with a 5/8" smooth I.d. so all I would have to do is drill the hole for the pin. any thoughts?
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Archive through March 02, 2008
- Thread starter sarcher
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Steve A.
Did ya by chance check the FAQ pages?
Did ya by chance check the FAQ pages?
Steve - I bet those joints are 'pensive though. I'd like to see the ordering info and price to have incase I need some in the future for some reason.
Have you tried McMaster Carr ?
Brendan - PVC would make a good guard for it, maybe held on with rubber tie straps. I used a piece of air hose slid down my hand saw to protect it when it was banging around in my tool box when I was a carpenter.
Have you tried McMaster Carr ?
Brendan - PVC would make a good guard for it, maybe held on with rubber tie straps. I used a piece of air hose slid down my hand saw to protect it when it was banging around in my tool box when I was a carpenter.
bbrigham
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Ken, I thought that the round of pvc would be easier on the body, or kids for that matter, if ya banged up against it than the folded sheet metal style thats usually on them. A little Krylon Fusion red and should be good to go.
Brendan - Just remember when you fold the bar up or down the knives do their work back and forth ... keep fingers clear of the guards !
It'll be a pain cutting the slot out of the PVC unless you have a good table saw. That could be tricky too. We don't want to call you 9 finger Brendan.
It'll be a pain cutting the slot out of the PVC unless you have a good table saw. That could be tricky too. We don't want to call you 9 finger Brendan.
bbrigham
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I think I would have to screw a 2x2 lengthwise to the pvc to stop it from rolling while I cut the 1/2" slot out of it. 2 1/2" pvc should cover most of the teeth so ya can't get any fingers between the teeth, if not I'll go to 3". I would just as soon have a fat cover over those teeth than anyone get hurt on it. I will even put a cap on the top end so it doesn't slide itself down the bar when in transport position.
bbrigham
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Here's a better shot of how it's getting set up. Need to slide the whole unit forward on the pipe to get it closer to the rear and move the pulley shaft to the right to center it. The pulley closest to the tractor will be replaced with a pto drive shaft and the rear 2 will be changed out to figure the speed out.
Boy this 100kb is a pain in the butt
Boy this 100kb is a pain in the butt
bbrigham
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Haven't made the guard yet, just got it home. It will have a link from the back to the top of the tranny to stop the rear from dropping. The front will bolt to the hitch. I will either have a ram or linear actuator to raise and lower the bar. Of course the pipe sticking out the rear will be cut off also. A couple of the pieces are not in the pic, still in my truck.
Brendan - You're not getting my meaning of knife guards. There's none on it , they are what makes the knives cut. They also keep big objects like rocks or sapplings out of the knives. I've got one for a haybine out in the shop I may have to take a pic of so you'll get the meaning. Of course it wont be anything like yours.
Bryan - Ya still got that pic of a guard you sent me some years back so Brendan will know what type of critter I'm talking about ?
Timothy - I don't know nuttin' 'bout blades or tillers but the only difference to keep something from fitting a WF or NF is the subframe or mount. But neither one of those has anything to do with an Original as it's kinda in a leauge of it's own.
Bryan - Ya still got that pic of a guard you sent me some years back so Brendan will know what type of critter I'm talking about ?
Timothy - I don't know nuttin' 'bout blades or tillers but the only difference to keep something from fitting a WF or NF is the subframe or mount. But neither one of those has anything to do with an Original as it's kinda in a leauge of it's own.
Brendan
Here are a few pictures of my Dad's has a rear mounted Haban.
Dad uses the tiller drive to run Haban.
Here are a few pictures of my Dad's has a rear mounted Haban.
Dad uses the tiller drive to run Haban.
For Steve Archer-
I looked into some u-joints for my 1450 but the RPM ratings weren't high enough. Remember the driveshaft is turning at crankshaft speed. I ended up using the rag joints but made custom ends for the shaft and used better quality "eyeball" bearings at each end.The ends I made are similar to the stock ends but machined from bar stock. I also modified the one for the hydro so it fits the shaft tighter and has a longer bore to go farther on the shaft. I don't have much time on this setup, just finished putting it together, but it runs real true and no vibration.
I looked into some u-joints for my 1450 but the RPM ratings weren't high enough. Remember the driveshaft is turning at crankshaft speed. I ended up using the rag joints but made custom ends for the shaft and used better quality "eyeball" bearings at each end.The ends I made are similar to the stock ends but machined from bar stock. I also modified the one for the hydro so it fits the shaft tighter and has a longer bore to go farther on the shaft. I don't have much time on this setup, just finished putting it together, but it runs real true and no vibration.
