Archive through February 18, 2012

[hydroharry]

Hey there Jerry B - good to see you pop in as well. Did you catch the whole story on the 149 that David James is looking at. He posted a few pics on the last thread (where your post is). I'm thinking a non-running 149 down your way in MO wouldn't hardly make a 3 figure price.

David James - based on your additional info I suspect you're gonna have to start looking elsewhere. I don't think a non-running 149 would be worth $800 even up north of the border where Don Tanner resides. All I can suggest is you ask her how she determined the value of the unit, and try to get her to understand that if the engine won't run it only has value as parts and you can't tell how anything else operates without the engine running. If she wanted to get a repair shop to look at it they are going to charge her $75 to come and pick it up, and probably $200-300 to diagnose and repair it, if it's something minor, and that's if the shop is familiar with these old tractors. And then when it's running, it may be worth $400-500, and that's if they get it running. It's just throwing good money after bad. I'd just suggest making her an offer you think is fair and tell her you'll stand with the offer for a week, after that you're buying another tractor. Good luck with it. If you do buy it and get it running yourself please expect you'll have to put money into it - and I'm not talking paint. You'll probably have to rebuild the carb, maybe the front PTO, I'd certainly decarbon the head and piston which requires a new head gasket, and points, plug, condensor, change the rearend hydro fluid and filter and some other things. You're likely going to have to put $300 into parts just so you know it's in good order ready to use - and all this is after fixing what ever the current starting problem is - assuming it will run. And after this you may needs some new belts which is another $60-70, maybe blades as well, you might need at least one front wheel spindle. This list could go on and on. I'm not trying to scare you away - there's alot of talk about these tractors being indestructible, but the truth is they do break, but they can be fixed generally for a reasonable cost if you're willing to put the time in to figure out the problem, study and learn a little, and do the repairs yourself. This site has a wealth of information, and some very very talented people to help you. There is a chance it's something minor and you'll get it started fairly easily, but you'll likely still need to do the things I mentioned to make sure it's in good running order.

By the way, I see a 129 forsale over in Lancaster and it comes with a tiller, which by itself is probably worth $200-$300.

Good luck to you. I hope you can work it out.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but sometimes they need some resuscitation).

 

[wheinsohn]

Just to clarify some things on this 149. The deck is actually the last version of the 42" deck made. The last version of the 38, 42, and 48" decks had the wide skid plates. All of the decks before that had the 1/2" rods and usually gauge wheels. I also agree with Dennis in that I like ag tires better for mowing grass than turfs. I used my 149 with 10.5 ags to mow for years and since I have hills and about 90 #'s of weights in each wheel, it does not tear up the lawn at all when turning or going around or up these hills. Unfortunately the governor went bad in it and have had to go back to my 106 to mow with turf tires. This year I may either get the 149 fixed or put the tires on the 106.

 

[trutherford]

i have just unloaded a kwik way loader off my dads truck tonight it is currently on a gravely could there be any possibility that it would fit a cub cadet?

 

[digger]

Troy R.
One good thing about all GT loaders is the fact that they are so simple to adapt to any other tractor.

 

[rbeem]

Troy,

Fit..like bolt on, no. Fit like you have project ahead of you yes.

You will have to build a sub frame and pump mount to get this to work. (I'm doing this myself right now)

Go to Xtreme Motor works link (Sponsor) above and look in his projects. This will give you an idea of what it will take.

 

[rbeem]

The crusty start to my project. Bolens 1050 with Johnson Work Horse loader.

The bucket was toast. Got a new one from Kwik-Way yesterday.

 

[digger]

Rick B.
And your going to put the loader on a Cub?

 

[rbeem]

I'm building a sub-frame to mount it on one of my wide frames. I'm not sure which one yet. Probably my 1650, as it's the only Hydro I own.

I have a "super-steer" axle and 3-turn steering set-up set back for the build also.

 

[dpbauer]

Evening folks!

Spent the day cleaning my 125 (painting frame), pulling the motor (governor fix), and looking at the logistics to replacing the front axle (axle pin hole is oblong and the spindles are bent).

SO I'm trying to figure out how to drive the pin out of the front axle mount.

Is there a pressing device or other ways to drive the mounting pin out? Hammering just ain't gonna do it!

Thanks for the advice, danWI

 

[digger]

Dan B.
Heat is one option. The other which sorry to say happens a lot, entails the use of a sawzall, which usually ends up being your best friend.

 

[jbliler]

Harry, It seems that most cubs here find their way into the puller market. Our 782 went that way. Hated to see my first red cub go but I could build an engine for my pickup for less money than a proper engine for the cub. Will be glad to have my 149 back running this season though. Not much good to say about a new in box engine around here!

 

[hydroharry]

Jerry B - what are you talking about: New in the box engine? For the 149?

Dan B - are you talking about the bushings welded to the frame that the pin slides thru, are oblong, or do you think the hole thru the axle has gone oblong? The service manuals talks about replacing the bushings welded on the outside of the axle channel. I don't know of anyone replacing them, but should be possible. With regard to getting the pin out - I might suggest flipping the frame upsidedown if possible. The wear on the pin is really on one side, and if you can reverse the weight on it you can probably still drive it out. Did you happen to grease the zerk fitting? If you do that it may help as well. I don't think heat will be much help but maybe if that pin is just really rusted in. If you flip the frame and still can't drive it out, my next effort would be to tac weld a nut to the front of the pin, then grease the zerk fitting again, and then try a wrench on that nut, and see if you can break the pin loose by rotating it back and forth, and then drive it out.

Good luck with it.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[dpbauer]

Harry-

AHHA! so you're saying there's a chance the BUSH is good and the PIN is worn oblong? This would be an AWESOME find! I have been thinking the bush is worn and that I need to drill the OD of the hole larger to insert a steel bush (OD size I drill, ID the size of the pin OD).

I also found the FAQ Front Axle Pivot Adjustment which suggests using washers to remove the slop in the front beam. So there are options.

The 125 is not in a good position to flip right now. Any thoughts on putting a jack under the frame to lift just enough to take the weight off the pin?

I don't see a grease zerk on this 125 front end. Maybe broke off? Will check again today. thanks for the leads everyone! danWI

 

[dpbauer]

Just another thought...

when uninstalling pistons, i use a piston pin tool that holds the piston steady and drives out the pin. So my thinking is there a tool to do the same with this axle pin? Something along the lines of a large C-clamp with a slightly smaller pin welded to one pad, and a large arm to turn the screw.... would reduce the number of jarring sledgehammer swings

 

[etyler]

Finally Got a GroundSaw! It called me from OH and said bring me home! A great guy brought it to NY where I drove to go get it. Runs and works, was being used to lay electric lines. Finally see a reason for a rear pto, that is how they are driven, a hydro motor drives the rear PTO via a chain and sprocket to move the tractor while trenching. Pretty neat invention by Mr. Inhoffer!

 

[dfrisk]

DAN - If your CC has a zerk on the frt axle pivot it will be on the back right side of the axle up by the pivot. I always jack the frt of the tractor up, turn the frt wheels to get the tierods out of the way and hold the right frt wheel down so I can get a straight shot at the zerk when greasing my tractors.

You'll find the pin worn I'm sure. The bushings welded to the channel & the axle bore should be O-K. The channel tends to widen from the years of use and either a big C-clamp or a large 1/2" or 5/8" bolt can be used to draw the sides together again so the axle casting fits tight. Several people have used a Grd 5 or 8 3/4" bolt to replace the pivot pin, a hex jam nut on the back side for oil pan sump clearance so they can tighten the nut occasionally to reduce the axle wobble. That's best accomplished after engine removal.

Wipe the old pin & bushing down good with solvent & a rag, seems like the pin is held in with a roll pin you have to remove before removing the pivot pin. Check the parts look-up above. If you jack the frt of the tractor up and if the pivot pin has ever been greased at all the pin should drive out with no much effort. If it's not coming out the worn parts of the pin are not lining up with the holes in the bushing & axle.

 

[kphill]

Dan, I have a 102 that the front axle was really loose on..I drove out the roll pin and knocked out the pin with an air chisel and then installed a 3/4" bolt with a castle nut and cotter pin..Then tightened the bolt to were I wanted it, marked it, took it out and drilled a hole for a cotter pin,and then put it back together again..That was ten years ago and it still works fine..

 

[rwalker]

Morning Everyone,
First off, thank you everyone for all the input you have been giving me. I just finished reading the last weeks posts. Very interesting information about ignition switches. I apologize for not posting sooner as I worked two jobs this week and very long hours.

I was able to get some time in yesterday working on the starting problem. I also had a conversation with my uncle (very knowledgeable about engines and such) last week who suggested I run a jumper lead from the battery positive to the coil positive and after / if it starts then remove the jumper. I connected the jumper and turned the key and the tractor started. Disconnected the jumper and let the tractor run. After letting it run for the required time to be able to re-torque the head I then shut it down.

While it was cooling I took the ignition switch out of the tractor to look at it. I cleaned all of the contact terminals. I then connected my multimeter to it placing one connection on the battery (B) terminal and moving to the other terminals to test the connection during run mode and start mode. Below are the results.

B to R Continuity in run mode - Continuity in Start mode

B to S No continuity in run mode - Continuity in Start mode

B to A Continuity in run mode - No continuity in Start mode

I believe all of the above are correct in the way the switch is functioning. When testing with the multimeter the readings went down to almost 0 which I believe means there is a good connection.

What is confusing me is I put the switch back in the tractor and when I tried to start it again I had to use the jumper to get it to start.

I still plan on getting a new ignition switch.

Thank for all your help. Rich W.

 

[wshytle]

Dan-

I've had a cub or two with a lot of axle slop. The pins didn't want to come out either. After removing both front wheels, the roll pin holding the axle pin, and with the engine out I pushed up on the axle and the pin came right out. The wear had made a shoulder on the pin and the shoulder was "locking" the pin in place as long as there was weight on it. You'll need to replace the pin in this case but you might get by just turning it 180*. If the bushings are oblong the only way I know to fix it right is grind off the old and replace with some new bushings welded in place. The front bushing will require a hole for the roll pin retainer. Also, you might want to carefully squeeze the channel back to a good fit on the axle while the axle is out. I use a 3/4" fine thread bolt, nut, and heavy washers. You need to be careful not to over squeeze or you'll have to work backwards spreading the channel a tad. Just squeeze a little and check the fit over and over until it fits good. The engine does need to be removed and it's best/easiest if you can flip the frame.

I've been lucky and never had a axle pin that was rusted in tight. They all have moved with minimal hammer work as long as everything was aligned.

Good luck!

 

[hydroharry]

Dan B - I assumed you had removed the roll pin from the front bushing. (if you didn't that axle pin isn't going anywhere). Hopefully you have the engine removed. Your dished oil pan is in the way if it's not removed. If the grill casting isn't removed you can only drive that roll pin (in the bushing) in the upward direction. You have about 8" between the end of the roll pin and the floor making it really difficult to hammer on the pin. It's just not worth trying to remove the axle pin unless the grill and engine are both removed. Once the engine and grill are removed then yes, you can jack the frame up ever so slightly just to get some of the weight off the front tires BUT not lift the front tires off the surface. The tires need to be touching and actually have a slight amount of weight on them. What you're doing here is actually taking the weight off the pin, allowing the pin to drop down and hopefully center itself in the channel. As Dennis F mentioned, make sure you find that grease zerk on the back side of the axle. You'll have to stick your fingers in on the right back side and clear all the crud out, and then you should feel it, and you'll even see it if you shine a light there. 95 of out 100 tractors will still have the zerk there. Once you find it, load it up with grease - you'll see the grease come out on both sides of the channel. I didn't look back at the FAQ to see the suggestion of using washers, but I wouldn't go that route. You definitely want to squeeze the channel back together so the axle is snug in it and can't flop backwards and forwards.
Once you have the pin out I think you'll find the bushings are not really worn that bad. Once you get a new pin and squeeze the channel back together I think you'll find it to have a good enough fit to return to service.

Richard W - I don't have the details on which switch contact is which so I just don't know if the switch is good and correct or not, but it does sound like it's working correctly. You obviously need to make sure the wire to the switch contact is the correct wire for that contact (not moved around in the plug like I had done before). Hopefully you have the wiring schematic from the service manual which is a definite must to resolve your problem. I think your next step should be to check conntinuity of the wire from the plug to the other end. Based on your info, I lean in the direction of a bad/broken wire in the harness (or it could the the connector inside the plug is broken). But it could still be the wires going into the plug are in the wrong location for their switch contacts. Good luck with it and let us know what you do finally find. Glad to hear the engine runs and you were going to retorqued the head. Hopefully it runs and sounds good.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes get their wires crossed)