Archive through August 19, 2013

[stanner]

Does anyone have an inkling as to what brand this clutch is?

I am using it on the 149, and want to adjust the air gap properly. The full story is in the refurbish thread below

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?lm=1376920110&file=/219673/261538.html

Thx!

Scott T

 

[bjamison]

I use the 2 (maybe 2-1/2) gallon Eagle metal gas cans. These are the old style gas cans that are round, flat on the bottom and dome shaped. They are GREAT! NEVER tip over going down life's highway in the truck or trailer, easy to handle vs a 5 gallon gas can.

The same lid (which Charlie sells) on the IHCC metal gas tanks fit the old Eagle cans perfectly too. I buy these old Eagle gas cans for a couple of $'s at yard sales.

I found one a few years ago that was branded McCulloch (anyone remember that chainsaw brand?).

I paint my cans for the application. Red for gas as my other color tractors and tiller are red. I guess if I find an IH 582 (Cub Cadet content in post...

), the red cans will be applicable to them. Green for lawnboy and orange for Stihl. This way, it's harder to straight gas a 2 cycle engine by the rest of the crew...

Under edit:

1650 update: Shinned up the connections for from the battery to the switch to the solenoid to the starting motor. Also put-in a new 420CCA battery with a full charge. Worked over the wire terminals to the switch so they are clean and hold tight. Turn the switch - nothing.

Not exactly nothing. The solenoid clicks, but no starter turning. I did get a little smoke from something trying to fry. I think I need to pull the gas tank so I can get into the wiring for a better look-see.

 

[mfrade]

My Harley, like my Cub Cadet doesn't leak!

It's just oozing with personality!

 

[fcurrier]

The gang wanted to come out for a photo op today:

Andy is pulling wood splitter duty and the 149 Tiller Tractor refused to start because it doesn't get used enough to keep the battery charged and is psdoff.
They thought they'd get a day in the sun. They all got showers.

Got a chance to paint with a brush instead of a rattle can:

And then we raked in and rolled over some old clover seed:

I'm so busy I don't get anything done!

 

[jhillegass]

Dennis F. and others.

About three weeks ago, I asked for ideas about why my 149 was loosing rpm and "rattling" on an uphill run while mowing.

I looked everything over for any loose items in the motor and PTO area. Didn't find any thing to tighten.

I did turn the carb needle about 3/16 of a turn CC to richen the fuel. So twice now, I did not notice any rpm slow down or the noise while mowing on the hill. For now this may have been the fix.

Thanks...........

I did notice that I may soon need a new starter/generator belt. Does any one have a good NAPA or Gates belt to replace the CC belt?

 

[jboelens]

Jerry - I can still get the original Cub Cadet / IH starter belt from my work (Case IH dealership)

 

[balbrecht]

Dennis F,
I have found that if you look a little, you'll find some of the plastic caps on the new safety cans swap right onto the older cans. I managed to save one of my beloved non-safety spout cans last week when the same plastic cap you mentioned broke by canibilizing a new can for the cap.

 

[lhinds]

Bill have you checked the solenoid mounting bolts? They ground the solenoid.

 

[sblunier]

Scott T.

Most of those clutches run in the .010-.015" range......I bet you'd be really close to spec at .010-.012"....that's where I would set it if it were mine.

 

[kostendorf]

My electric pto stops working if I shut it off after cutting grass for about an hour and then try turning it back on. I have to wait for it to cool down. Does this mean the field coil is going bad or could it just need readjusted. I bought another complete pto with field coil. Can I just use the coil I bought if needed or change the whole assembly. I have no idea how to diagnose this problem. Can I use a ohm meter to check the coil and what would the correct setting be?

 

[stanner]

Thanks Steve!! Is it normal for it to drag a little?

Another ?? about the hoses to the hydraulic cylinder. What shape are they in after 40 years of hard use? Should I replace? Visually they look good, no cracks, etc...

 

[sblunier]

Scott,

They have about 650psi on them max and they are "shielded" by sheetmetal should they fail. I'd run them. I saw one fail once, Keith E. at a PD, and it was a "non-event".....messy, but not really dangerous.

It it were a loader at 1500 psi and right there in your face, I'd replace.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - I have one of those 2-1/2 gal Eadle gas cans I bought to mix 2-stroke gas for my old Harley Rapido enduro bike. Bought it in about 1970. Not sure how many times the cap on the spout was taken off, THOUSANDS of times for sure, and the threads are deformed just enough to not tighten anymore to be leak-free when pouring, so it's "retired". I liked the can too, just can't stand dribbling gas cans.

BRIAN A. My local Farm & Fleet sells the new safety spouts, that's where I got mine from. They don't sell anything to fit an old steel can but they fit my old plastic cans just fine. I do have two small cans, a 1 and a 1-1/2 gal can I use for 2-stroke premix and they don;t sell spouts small enough for those cans, but I still have one good spout for both cans.

JERRY H. - Glad I could help! On the S/G belt, I'd try your local CC or C/IH dealer, or one of the sponsors above, CC Specialties has them, 401960R1 for $12, same belt fits the CCO to 169, in effect ALL CC's that need them.

 

[bjamison]

Luther H - Yes the solenoid connection is good. I'm getting a nice "click" with the solenoid, whereas before, there was nothing. Solenoid is new and doing it's job. My problem is downstream I think...

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - if your solenoid is working good (big click) but you're not getting any starter movement then sounds to me like your starter is froze up (or the engine is, but lets hope not after you had it opened). The starter should have a tag on it that says "Do NOT Hammer or Damage will result" - so don't do it!!!! It's easy enough to unbolt the starter and have a look at the bendix to see if it's sliding. Could be stuck in position. If it is have a look at the Kohler service manual for details on cleaning and oiling. And if that doesn't work, well start looking for another starter.

Jeremiah - Jeremiah - Jeremiah - sorry I didn't post the additional dimensions for the heat baffle last nite. The shield itself does measure up to be 1/8" thick steel (or just very slightly under this - I don't know steel gauges).

Now, the flat section over the head is 3 and 11/16" (which is quite a bit more than your expected 3 and 1/4"). Since the overall length is still the same, I think this means my approx angles are off but I'll let you tell me. I don't have a protractor to measure (but I do have a pro-tractor model 169).

Also, I placed a flat edge on the underside of the flat section over the head (yes there is some exposed so I could do this) and ran the flat edge all the way to the front of the shield. That front bend does not come down to touch the flat edge. The bottom of the front curve is about 1/4" off the flat edge.

OK - I believe I've given you enough of the dimensions for you to determine the angle degrees of X and Y. (I know they are close to my estimates). This is a quiz and you have 24hours to determine the correct answers. And no, I don't have a protractor to verify.


Keith O - your field coil could be going bad or it could be worn out of adjustment. I don't know how to use a meter on the coil to determine if it's good or bad. I don't recall if it's in the service manual - but the service manual does provide the details on checking and adjusting the gap for the clutch. Your symptoms certainly sound like it's over heating during use so I just don't know if adjusting the gap will change this. Also, even tho you got the complete spare clutch, you could just use the field coil from it in your current clutch (assuming they are both the same). You still have to completely dis-assemble yours to replace the coil, and while you're at it you can check the bearing on the clutch pulley.

Frank - nice job on your brush paint work. If you have some red you should paint those eaves at the ends - looks to me like someone could easily walk into them and do some damage to their eye, nose, head, etc - just saying.

 

[kostendorf]

Thanks Harry, I'll be taking it apart and hopefully I can see the problem. If not I'll put the looks new used one I bought on and try it.

 

[hydroharry]

Keith O - before you go removing and replacing a working electric PTO I'd certainly just check the gap and adjust it per the service manual. It's not hard to do. All you need is a feeler gauge and a socket wrench for the 4 nuts holding the tension springs in place. I don't remember the gap off hand but it's pretty simple process to check and adjust. It's worth trying before you go replacing the field coil.

 

[tbdavis]

Frank - nice lookin crapper! Looks like a single holler with room to really stretch out while takin care of business. Keep any good reading material handy like Cub Connection? Kinda envious. Take care and enjoy!

 

[kostendorf]

I'm going to check and adjust first. I'm reading the manual a couple times and copying the page to take out to the garage. Can't work on it till the weekend which sounds strange for a retired guy but life is busy right now. Thanks again Harry. I will take pictures as I'm working on it.

 

[bwittman]

Keith, et el:

It is okay not to have time to get things done on a Cub Cadet, or anything else. Retirement is hard work.

Good luck with that clutch. Mine has done the same thing, the two times that it has been used. I'll be watching for your results.