Archive through August 08, 2010

[hydroharry]

David G - I've never tried the 1/2in width belt on a wide frame with a 44" deck. I did discover that whether you have the large or smaller (speed up) center pulley on the 44" deck you're better off with Belt no. IH 59971C1, which is 78" long for the PTO to deck. If you're using 117465C1 it's a full inch longer at 79". I'd try the 78" belt to see if it resolves your adjustment problem, before going over to a 1/2 wide belt.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but things do get twisted up once in awhile)

 

[mbounds]

T Deese: I just tap the old ones out with a punch, wire brush inside the wheel, coat with a bit of anti-seize lube, line up the flat spot with the grease zerk, and tap the new ones in. Friction fit is a better description than "press fit" which implies some press machinery or something...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[bproctor]

Hello all!

I was tinkering with the 125 yesterday and disconnected some wires to remove the dash. I reconnected them while referring to the wiring diagram. The diagram shows an in harness ground wire (white wire) grounded at the engine and connected to the neg. bat. terminal. This wire is in place and grounded correctly but the PO connected the top end of the white wire to the selonoid screw and added a black ground wire from the negative battery terminal to the frame. Any ideas why he might have done this? Should I resist my temtation to follow the diagram and remove the extra wire?

 

[kide]

Matt:
Yup - bad eyes.......

Myron:
My dad (a machinist and a mechanic by trade) told me that if it didn't drop in it was a press fit, I guess it just depends on what you "press" with, but you are right, it doesn't take a lot of pressure...

Bob: If they're all just going to ground (I assume that you mean the solenoid MOUNTING screw), then unless you're build a museum piece, the more grounds, the better and the PO was probably chasing a ground issue..

 

[jhillegass]

David G.

I have a 44A deck that I run on a 149. I use a 1/2" belt that I got from NAPA. It stays on the narrow mule drive pulleys and is fine on the PTO and on the "speedup" center deck pulley. I'm on my third summer with this setup. Also works on my 129.

The adjusted length seems to be just right for my mule drive. I got my mule drive and deck from a late serial number "wrecked" 108.

This belt is a "green belt, made by Gates" as it says on the back of the label card and is very flexable.

my 2-cents

 

[jderstine]

I'm attempting to install the rear lift on my 125.

What's the best way to install item #3 on the lift handle ? Do I have to remove my mower deck? Hire a midget since I have large hands? ( wedding band tight size 12 )

Also, there is a spring bracket welded to my flat bar. ( I still need to get a spring ) Which way should the open end face? And on the inside or outside?
The bottom picture is facing forward and out. ( so I only have to put it in once

Thanks
Jeff

 

[fcurrier]

OK, Jeff. Go remove your mower deck and I'll go look at the 125 that I just took out and stored in the Qounset

and I'll be back in a few minutes.

 

[tillenden]

I am new to these old Cubs. I have found a 128 that looks clean and the price is right.

What are some things to consider looking at these? The motor does not have any smoking issues.

Is this considered a wide or narrow frame?

What snow blower would fit on it? From what I have found it would be the QA36A or QA42A.

Is there any hidden things to look for on these?

Thanks for any help. I still can't believe how much better these tractors are built than the stuff in the stores today.

 

[jderstine]

Todd
Welcome.

At the top of this page is a clickable link
"Frequently asked questions"
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/

Inside that link is "Question not answered here? Check out Charlie's FAQ at cubfaq.com"
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

A lot of questions are answered there.

The 128 is a wide frame ( I just looked it up )

I let others answer on what to look for as I own two narrow frames myself.

~~~~~~~~~

Frank,
I'll take the mower off now.

BRB

Jeff

 

[mgwin]

Jeff,
The spring bracket should point toward the rear and toward the inside of the tractor.

 

[fcurrier]

Wow, Jeff -- that's not a job you're going to want to tackle if there's any kids around that you don't want to hear some bad language!! Looks to me like you're going to want to take the whole seat/fender assembly off and go in from the top AND bottom. There's no deck or undercarriage on the one out back and still hard to see or feel up in there from underneath.
Aren't the holes on the flat bar different sizes? That would give you an indication of which way the spring bracket opening goes, but I'm betting forward. That spring assist pulls back on the bar to help lift whatever you're lifting (front blade, in my case). It's quite an experience the first time you release the lift handle with nothing attached and have to push it forward! Good luck!!
Todd: Welcome!

The 128 will make you a fine machine -- for a gear drive. Take some time to read some of the postings here and you'll get a better idea of what you're thinking of getting into. Start with a keyword SEARCH (by the magnifying glass, above) for 128. Good Luck to you, too!

 

[mgwin]

Todd,
Welcome to the forum!
Look for the same thing you would look for in any cub cadet: any fluid leaks?, clutch operation smooth?, gear stick seem snug (not flopping around) when changing gears? No unusual noises when driving?
Fix it up nice, and you've got a fine garden tractor! My 128 looked like this last year. I have added head lights since then.

 

[jderstine]

Frank,
Thanks for looking. I already started with liberal use of <font color="ff0000"> "the universal adjective"</font>

No kids here but maybe the neighbors will learn some new phrases.

Thanks Marty for the correct directions.

Well, I'll be out with the 125
Jeff

 

[kide]

Jeff:
Another reason to add a WIDE frame (I'd go for a 1x8, 1x9 as the best looking of 'em all) to your herd..more room to work inside of the frame

 

[mgwin]

Jeff,
Here is a pic of what a Brinly spring assist looks like (minus the dirt):

Todd,
BTW, a front blade can be a lot of fun in the snow!

 

[jderstine]

I have it on now. Wasn't quite as bad as I imagined but hope I don't have to do this too often.

Gerry,
I only have a 12 x 20 shed for my cubs. Between the 125 and the 122 ( plus the 1A tiller, the QA42 snow thrower, the 42" blade , the Trac Vac system, a chipper and assorted other home owner "stuff", there's not a whole lot of room. I'm glad to have two cubs

Marty,
Thanks for the pic. I need to get one of those.

Jeff

 

[fcurrier]

WoW! Jeff, tell us how ya did it!?

 

[wshytle]

Here's what followed me home this morning. I got this 129 from southern Virginia and it was only an hour away. I might should have posted in the "cool" section but that stack is short lived. It also came with the stock muffler. The engine has a lot of compression and the po said it never smoked. I couldn't have bought a good engine for what I paid for the whole package which also included a nice 42" deck. The seat has no marks or cracks either. Even the battery box has square sides instead of the usual rusted away sides under the battery.

The po was trying some paint technique on the hood. Also, can I assume this coil has no internal resistor?

It's the coil the po had just put on to get it running. The coil wasn't attached, just wired and hanging.

 

[jderstine]

Installing a rear lift

Remove mower deck and raise front of tractor on jack stands

Then assemble the bracket which attaches to the handle onto the rod. ( or install it twice

) The threaded holes go forward of the pivot point. I also cleaned the threaded holes with a 5/16-18NC tap. Secure with cotter pin. Then put this assembly in from the rear. You will probably find grass clipping up in the tunnel.

Now comes the fun part

Now take a 5/16-18 NC by 7/8" long bolt with lock washer and thread into a hole in the plate. What worked for me was one finger from each hand on each side of the bar to turn in the bolt. Patience is the key here. I moved the plate back and forth with another finger to get the threaded hole lined up with the slot in the handle. Repeat for the other hole.

The manual says it should be at the bottom of the slot but I moved it up a bit after the picture so I could reattach my mower deck.

Now attach the bar at the cast piece in the back. ( my threaded rod will be replaced with a cotter pinned smooth rod before use )

I will also be using my gas powered blower to clean out the tunnel now that I have the rear covers off.

Jeff

 

[wshytle]

Yesterday a friend of mine came over with his two boys and he took them for a "tractor ride". They rode (1250) for about 30 minutes then he parked it. Later when I went to put it in the barn I only got a click when I turned the key. The ammeter needle will swing far left when the key is turned and I haven't had a chance to look at it. I'm just wondering if there's something I should look at first and nip this crap in the bud. I just finished putting a solenoid in the 124 yesterday and that wasn't fun at all. Those narrow frames are a bear at times to work on as everyone knows (still great tractors though). I have this 129 I want to deal with so I'm trying to find out any quick fixes for the 1250.

Thanks in advance....Wayne