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IH Cub Cadet Forum * The Vault * Archive through March 20, 2009 < Previous Next >

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Allen Schumacher (Aschumacher) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 08:53 pm:

Tom H., besides the obvious places to look..check the back of the car seats ? Maybe for a 'safe place' its in your wallet?? Guess you'll have to take another ride tomorrow.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tom Hoffman (Thoffman) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 08:28 pm:

So my wife and I go out for ride on this nice spring day and stop by a garage sale with a nifty 102 all original with wheel weights and creeper in it. The guy says he's asking 400 for it but would take 350. Figuring that it might not sell I take his number down to check later today/tonight. Well I'll be dipped in ---- if I can't find the paper with the phone #! SOB!!!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy tim keefe (Tkeefe) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 08:27 pm:

Luckily this job requires lots of back and forth and not much steering. Got a call in to one of our fine sponsors.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Allen Schumacher (Aschumacher) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 08:08 pm:

Don T., maybe someone has an old bicycle handlebar they can lend him.
Isn't that kinda the way they make senior citizen travel carts?

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Brendan Brigham (Bbrigham) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 07:24 pm:

hehehe I would have been alright except the sleeving I put over the harness was a wee bit big. I have several zip ties around it now, when I yank the engine for the swap I will do a better job of getting it tucked in. Had to drag the crash cart across the yard to where the 73 quit today and looked it over, pretty sure the field wire is broke inside. Something about it doesn't look right.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 06:50 pm:

hello guys thanks for them comments and the frame and some other parts will be sprayed with new paint on monday(boss is home on weekends lol).

tim keefe (Tkeefe) I just noticed you sw on that 100. Must be hard to do much with out a wheel.But you will get the job done a 100 is a good Cub i like them. Later Don T


1 step forward 2 steps back always

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kirk Lorenz (Klorenz) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 06:40 pm:

Brendan,
I remember reading on here about someone's wiring harness getting wrapped around a driveshaft. Forgot it was yours. The last thing I did to my son's tractor was to bolt the clip on that holds the harness to the inside of the frame away from the driveshaft.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy John Underwood (Junderwood) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:57 pm:

Terry,

Take a long screw driver and put the end on the block and the other in your ear. This will work like a stethoscope and you should be able to tell whether the noise is coming from inside the engine. Move it around on the block and see which area is loudest if it is inside. Should give you an idea where to look.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Michael A. Miller (Mmiller) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:57 pm:

Keith,
About those wheel weights you posted on the 16th. I've got a pair just like 'um. Hank Will has a picture on pg. 25 of his new book Garden Tractors that shows a 1954 Bolens with these same weights on it.


It's NOT an addiction!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Brendan Brigham (Bbrigham) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:54 pm:

Kirk, Yes...very lucky son. Those KTM's are good bikes and very popular at hare scrambles. I was looking at Yamaha WR250 then went to an ATK dealer......sold. ATK's are also in the $8000-$10000 range but once you really look at what they are you get what you pay for. They are limited production pure bred race bikes with the best of everything. They have a web site atkusa.com Haven't seen the BMW yet but will be lookin this afternoon :-)

Before I get myself in trouble I did get a 301 closer to being ready for the 73. Our little one drove the 73 around the yard for most of the day but I doesn't want to charge for some reason, probably has something to do with harness getting sucked into the driveshaft Finally got the 1450 to fire also. Carb kit will help a ton then I can get the hydro linkages all adjusted.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy tim keefe (Tkeefe) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:37 pm:

Hey folks, the 100 is earning its keep lately been using it to cut grade out of the new cub condo. It's not fast but it sure is fun and it's FREE!!!
Bulldozing


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Terry Busch (Tcbusch) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:11 pm:

My newest 147 I got a few years ago is starting to clatter. At first I was thinking it was the front pulley, so I swapped it with another one I had. It could still be the pulley because of how it sounds. I am wondering if it might also be a wrist pin or something. Give this youtube video a listen and let me know what you think. I would rather not disassemble the whole engine unless I have to.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb6c7W4eDHc

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 04:01 pm:

Kirk, hmmm, KTM are my initials....

Don T., looking good!

Jason, depending on which style blade subframe you have you may be able to adapt the subframe to bolt onto your Original. THIS MAY HELP

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Ron R. Schmitt (Rrschmitt) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 01:55 pm:

Jamie O,

The digits after the "U" are the serial number. Recheck you serial number as you are missing a digit. The serial number range for 1X8/9 series Cub Cadet's starts at U400001 to U529811. Your 129 serial number would fall in this range.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jamie Oswald (Joswald) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 12:59 pm:

Sorry if i am doing this wrong but I am looking for help on getting my serial and model number so i can find the owners manual online. I just purchased a 129 and when I search for the manual it tells me the numbers I found are wrong. The number I found is 2050046U48311. Any help would be great. thanks.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kirk Lorenz (Klorenz) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 12:42 pm:

Brendan
The "multi breed" Cub Cadet was put together for my 15yr old son. The KTM 125SX is his also. I remind him very often about how lucky he is. The KTM is a very well built bike, but pricey when new. When you get in the power band, you better be hangin' on! Lotta power for a little 125. I ride a 1995 Honda XR250. Good "old fart" bike in very good condition. I only have $2400 invested in both bikes together. I treasure the time spent with my son both cubbin' and bikin'.

I've seen pictures of ATK's. Interesting bikes. Have you seen the BMW motocross/dirtbike yet? Priced at only $8000. Whew!!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Richard Palmer (Rpalmer) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 12:36 pm:

Don T.

Where do I get a number for the line to get mine painted?


Kohler engins, V-twins and beer. I think I love Wisconsin.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 11:48 am:

This is for those that need to see fresh paint.I primed and put on 1 coat so far. more later Don T


1 step forward 2 steps back always

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy timothy teague (Tteague) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 11:42 am:

Lonnie, What kinda tires are them and where did you get them. I have the original good years on mine and they are pretty dry rotted. But I'm not really sure of what kind of lug tire I really want to put on there. I've heard about the Firestones. Not sure thats what I want to go with. I would prefer something like what you have posted, thats perfect! Are they 4 ply? I bought some 10.5 x12 turf tires on the bay store, and when I got them home they had "cub cadet" molded into the rubber on the side, totally cool! But I do also need some good lugs for my 147. Im just not sure of what I want...Hmmm,I guess thats normal for me though

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Paul Bell (Pbell) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 09:25 am:

Lewis P
It is not as easy to shorten the driveshaft on an Original as it is the other models, because of the cross bar for the rag joint welded to the back end of the shaft. You can shorten the front of the shaft, but you will have to redrill the spirol pin holes for the clutch and main spring......butI don't know how much.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 09:19 am:

LONNIE - Good Year actually makes a large rear farm AG tire that looks about like that ATV tire. Can't remember that they call it, Dyna-Something. About four rows of bars around the things. I guess they pull good, but because of the short length lugs and soft GY rubber they don't wear as well as other brands. But I agree, those tires do look like they would hook up very well.
I think lug count has more to do with traction than lug depth for "normal" conditions. Look at the cut tires for pulling tractors. But on ground like We normally plow I don't think a lug taller than 3/4" would really offer an advantage. Another problem with REALLY tall lugs, like 1-1/2 to 2" would be they tend to bend over and break or cause tire casing failure. The R-2-0 cane & rice tires used on full size tractors have this problem on harder surfaces. When running knee-deep in mud or loose "Fluffy" dry dirt like peat ground they don't have that problem.
Only "BAD" thing I've ever heard anyone say about Firestone 23 Deg. tires is they don't hold near as well on side slip conditions. Good Friends of My Folk's had four Kids, The oldest Boy was 2 yrs older than I was, back in about '66 or '67 They got a new 4020-D NFE with 23 deg. Firestone's. One Saturday when the tractor was maybe a week old My Buddy ran the tractor over to a farm about 10 miles away to pull a large hog shade home on the snow-covered road, reduce wear on the skids. When My Buddy turned into the driveway at this other farm this 4020 proceeded to "Spin-out" slipping sideways for most of the length of the driveway. Kind of a scary thing to do on Your Dad's first new tractor in 10 years that MAYBE had two engine hours on it by that time, especially with the NFE.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy John Charles Lazar (Jclazar) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 08:08 am:

good morning folks! hows the paint turning out Don? is it cc yellow? going to get the 71 back out and haul some dirt around and what not. have a good day people!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy jason m burge (Jmburge) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 03:09 am:

Hi all, I just bought a 102 in great shape, It came with a snowblower and a snow plow. I would like to put the snowplow on my Original. Will it fit? If not what would I have to do to make it work?

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 12:17 am:

Lewis P.
I know the O drive shaft W/O a creeper is 21". but I can't for the life of me remember how much to cut off when you install a creeper.
And the installation manual doesn't tell either.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/dancocreeper.pdf

I'm sure someone will tell us both.
I know on a 70/100 you cut off 4 3/4", but that's not doin us any good is it!


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tom Hoffman (Thoffman) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 11:09 pm:

Kirk "L",
Sometine those "Orphans" are the best. I love my 120!!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Lonny Buttke (Lbuttke) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:06 pm:

I find these ATV tires to have a real good grip in dirt and snow.



Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, today is a gift, thats why its call the present.


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Richard Palmer (Rpalmer) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 09:59 pm:

Donald

I can't wait to see the finish on your finished 129.


Kohler engins, V-twins and beer. I think I love Wisconsin.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Brendan Brigham (Bbrigham) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 09:50 pm:

Daniel, yes..cloth covered.

John Allen, Hey buddy..you need to stop in a little more often. You could be showin us what that Arizona Cubbin is like, especially when it's 30° and raining here :-) Hopefully in a few days I'll be doing a heart transplant on my 73. Had to surface the head on a k301 for it today.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Lewis Palma (Lpalma) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 09:45 pm:

Anyone know the lenght of the driveshaft for a Original W/ a creeper? I am having one made up for ... Gratis!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Brendan Brigham (Bbrigham) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 09:05 pm:

Kirk, I have one built like that also. It's even named "FrankenCub" , been waiting on a friend of mine to do the graphics. May just airbrush it....though I haven't even touched my airbrush in 7 or 8 years. It started as a '62 Original. Now has a front axle from a 129, engine from a 1250, rear axles from a 129 so I can have steering brakes, hydraulics from a Bolens, F-Cub pto parts and air cleaner, sickle bar from a Bolens and a few other parts from different donor gt's. Was supposed to be done by now, hopefully by summer.

By the way, like the Katoom ! You scramble it ? I used to run scrambles with an ATK.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Daniel E Jones (Dejones) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 08:54 pm:

Can anyone tell me if the Original Cubs were equipted with cloth covered wire or if they used the vinyl covered type available today? Thanks.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Brendan Brigham (Bbrigham) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 08:46 pm:

Tom, I'll second the pto or drive clutches. The drive clutch on my 73 hammers so bad at times you would think there's gonna be a hole in the block soon.

Tristan, I like some of the atv tires too. I've lloked at a bunch. Some I don't like cause they balloon pretty good, I think some of that is from the ply rating but I could be wrong...again ;) I think I will be getting a pair of Swamp Witch tires. The atv tires do have a softer rubber compound than gt tires so you do loose some in life expectancy but I don't know how well they would do on ice, the last Banshee I had was worthless anywhere near ice. It also didn't weigh anywhere near what a gt does either which hurt it. I will stick with 6-12 turfs and chains for snow plowin.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jerry Bliler (Jbliler) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 07:18 pm:

Kraig--- you have to have a "high-speed" BFH. I have a very rare electric hammer out in the shed. Was a gift from a good friend. Everyone has to turn 40 once!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 04:14 pm:

Todd, it might be that I was using a cheap Coleman air hammer?? I tried and tried with the air hammer to no avail, two hits with a BFH and that special "tool" (5/8 fine thread nut and bolt) and the steering wheel popped right off. Who knows, maybe I loosened it up with the air hammer. I was so impressed with the results of the BFH method that I went out to one of my parts tractors and tried it and two hits and it was off as well. Now really impressed with my results I gave it a try on another, much to my surprise and disappointment no-go. Oh well, 2 out of 3 ain't bad. :-) I'll try again this spring after a week or so of PB Blaster treatment.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Nathan Smith (Nsmith) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 03:14 pm:

Tristan, I have been looking into the same think with my cub 1200. they are 25x8x12
Found these on ebay....
Tire

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Todd Markle (Farmallgray) (Tmarkle) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 03:05 pm:

Richard P,
I think that is the venturi (or maybe throttle bore) size in millimeters (MM).

The 26 was used on 10 and 12 hp (maybe some 14s?)
The 30 was used on 14 and 16 hp engines.


Kraig,
The air hammer method has never failed me. I tore apart a 104 last year that looked like it sat outside for 20 yrs with no steering wheel cap. The nut and the shaft looked like a solid blob of rust. I had to use an air impact wrench to get the nut off. A couple short bursts with the air hammer while lifting up on the wheel with my knees brought it right off.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tristan Stewart (Tstewart) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 02:59 pm:

Dennis - I keep forget about clearence with the mower deck with the larger tires... I guess maybe I'll just have to get another cub so I can have a seperate mower and garden tractor! I was thinking the larger tires would help too if I get a cultivator and run it through the garden as the plants start to grow for weed control - the higher I can get the tractor the longer I can weed it with the cultivator. Of course were only taking like 1.5" of actual clearance between 23" and 26", that might be the difference of 1 week for plants I guess.

I do like the look of the ag tires just as well but just exploring my options... I tend to do things a little different folks usually say.

I found out another pair I'm looking into the Interco Vampire EDL and ASX.

The EDL is extra deep lug:

43/32" tread for the 25" and 26" sizes (the 28x10x12 actually has a full 2" of tread!) 4ply

The ASX has lugs that wrap around the sidewalls:

ASX appears to only be available in 26x9.50x12 and 26x13x12 (7"/10"rims), 4 ply. And the 13" is 1" tread depth but the 9.5" is only 26/32".

I dunno maybe I'll go for the firestones but my local dealer wants $100 ea which seems kind of pricey.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 01:59 pm:

TOM - There's a LOT of rotating parts slowing down at uneven rates when You shut a Cub Cadet engine off. You didn't mention a model but Your profile says You have a 105 Hydro. Most likely culprit is the PTO clutch, there's anti-rattle clips that are supposed to reduce the rattle but My drive cone is so worn I can't keep them in so I let the PTO rattle. You may have a loose driveshaft coupling also. Plus the inner workings of the hydro make different noises when they run slower.
Smoke at start-up is not a good sign, but engine performance & oil consumption is a better measure of engine condition. Best test I've used is the "U-tube Manometer Test" in the Kohler engine manual. The test results really aren't stated because results "Depend" on several factors.
I'd try to wedge Your PTO drive disc solidly into the drive cone, cardboard shims would probably work. Check other parts for looseness. See if You can pin point the source of the "clucking". Remember engines are just air pumps, and when they inhale & exhale they do make noise. Your problem could be as simple as a rusted out muffler.
If You decide to rebuild Your K241 I would definitely replace the conn. rod, exh. valve, piston & rings if You bore the engine out, or just the rings if You don't bore the engine. The rod bearing is just a surface coating on the die cast conn. rod. Available in std size (1.500") and .010" Undersize, 1.490". You will have to have a machine shop grind Your crankshaft to eliminate taper and out-of-round on the rod throw. Measure the rod & crankshaft before buying any parts.
The only "Bearings" in a K241 are the ball bearing main bearings, and the rod bearing. Everything else is a bushing. Your K241 won;t have the balance gears. I've been around Cub Cadets and Kohler engines close to 50 yrs and I've NEVER heard of a ball bearing main bearing going bad. I've heard of a few people replacing them but they just don't wear out!

If You have more questions ask away..... I have a K241 engine torn apart on the engine stand now waiting for $$$$$ for parts.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Keith LeJeune (Klejeune) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 01:55 pm:

Tom,
What kind of PTO do you have on the front? It may be the clutch disc rattling as it runs down.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tom Roberts (Teroberts) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 01:07 pm:

When I shut my 10 horse down it makes rhythmic clucking sounds as the engine goes through its final revolutions. I was thinking this may be a sign that some of the bearings are less than tight. She smokes on start up too.
I assume it would be better to do an exploratory tear down. My question is which bearings should I check and how, or would it be just as well to replace everything as long as the motor is out.
I would rather fix things before the connecting rod goes through the crankcase.
thanks
tom

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 12:18 pm:

Hello guys. well i opened the can of paint i bought for the 129. This is going to look good. so i need only the time to spray the cub. i have 99% of the parts primed and ready. just thought i`d show what I`am about to use. Have a great day .. later Don T

What you all think of the Paint


1 step forward 2 steps back always

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 11:53 am:

TRISTAN - There's been several people here use ATV tires with very good results. From mowing, pushing snow, plowing. With a little rear weight You probably wouldn't need to run chains in winter moving snow. The rubber in the tread of ATV tires must be much softer than either the turf or ag tires for these little tractors.
Your rear rims are 7" wide, either the 8" or 9" should fit on the wheels but about the only advice I can give on the diameter is "Try It!" The 26-12.00-12 Firestones on the OEM rims measure smaller than 26" dia, Mine on the 982 measure 26" in dia. but only 24" to the top of the tread bars from the ground.
The added dia. does help eliminate one of the problems plowing with a CC, the rearend dragging with the left wheel/tire in the furrow. I really find it hard to believe an ATV tire would be a full eight ply tire, they normally have very flexible sidewalls but they could just have very thin plys.
I'd try them, either the 25-8x12's or the 26-9X12's. If they are too close to Your fenders a Dollar's worth of 3/8" flatwashers will space Your fenders up enough to clear them, You just need them under all four of the rear mounting bolts and the back two on each footrest. The only problem could be when trying to run the center mounted mowing deck. SGT's that used the larger dia. rear tires also had longer wheelbases to clear the mower decks. Your 129 may not be able to clear the gauge wheels on Your deck with the 26" tires, maybe even the 25's.
I personally like the look of real AG tires on Cubbies. I have 23-8.50's on My 72 and the 26-12.00's on My 982. The 8.50's are 2-ply rating and the big tires are 4-ply. I only have to run 6-8 psi air pressure in the 8.50's and 4-5 psi in the 12.00's they're so stiff.

As far as what Charlie & Keith are talking about I have NO IDEA!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Keith LeJeune (Klejeune) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 11:10 am:

Or, you could use the scripting code that is an option box above the posting box down below. It's a globe with a chain link. Click that and paste your link in there. Then the script comes up in the posting box. Discus Formatting Help Page

When you click the above link, scroll down to the Hyperlink help section. I've never used the tinyurl thing and the forum software has the above option built in and works. Plus the link opens in a new tab or window instead of the same one you're in like some links do.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tristan Stewart (Tstewart) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:57 am:

Sorry Charlie, this forums code is quite different than what I am used to so I'm not sure off hand how to substitute the actual link with smaller text. And that link you provided I am get a site blocked warning unfortunately.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:51 am:

Tristan S.
I think we need to use Tiny Url so the screen doesn't go wide on us.
http://tinyurl.com/c82zvj


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tristan Stewart (Tstewart) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:38 am:

I was wondering what your all thoughts would be on these tires. I only have some old turf tires and need some new rubber for plowing in the garden. Plus the turfs had a tough time on the grass on the hilly spots and turning. I could get ag tires but thought about ATV tires too and these seem like a good all around tire that might even work well in the snow without messing with chains. I currently only have one set of rims with 8.5's and I want as much clearence as possible so I found these 25"x8"x12 tires. I know I may have to space up the fenders on my 129 if they rub, but looking at the 23's on there now seems like plenty of room.

So what do you all think?

http://tinyurl.com/c82zvj



Greenball Dirt Commander
25x8x12 8-ply rated (probably overkill, but...)

They also have 26x9x12, assuming I can fit them vertically, would the 9" width fit ok on my rims (mine have the 23x8.5 tires on now)?
p.s. I have found them for about $20-30 cheaper on specialtytiresusa.com

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Myron Bounds (Mbounds) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 09:54 am:

Kevin P: Go to your nearest hardware store (I use my local ACE Hdw) that carries the Hillman brand hardware stuff...The "washers" are actually called thrust bushings. They are Hillman part # 58087-A (1/4 ID x 7/16 OD) Thrust Bushings and will be found listed in the Hillman Refillable Assortments Catalog (abt page 97 or so). If your store doesn't stock 'em and doesn't want to stock 'em , you may have to buy the 10 pack @ about .85-.90 cents or so each.

By the way, I went to AutoZone and purchased a 6mm Great Neck deep socket. This is a perfect fit to fit over the shaft and tamp those thrust bushings down into that recess. The Great Neck brand has a deep enough shoulder for this. Some other brands do not.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jerry Bliler (Jbliler) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 09:47 am:

Kind of like the heinz 57 name from here. Or as Jonny sang, I got it one piece at a time. Didn't cost me a dime. Gonna ride around in style. Dot the only one there is around!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 09:43 am:

Adam, the top button, item # 9, should unscrew from the rod, item # 5.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 09:40 am:

Ryan, John, Matt, yes the top photo does depict a 102 dash. I couldn't verify which dash a 71 had so I ran with what the Operator's Manual had.

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