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Wrong size frame?

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wgray

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Willie Gray
So I acquired a blade today, I planned on putting it on the 126.......... this is where I am at. So I am guessing this is a wide frame bracket or something, or is that left side of the bracket bent and needs a little persuasion?
 

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kmcconaughey

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Yes, that is a wide frame blade subframe. Here's what a narrow frame subframe looks like:

NF BSF_01.jpg


NF BSF_02.jpg


NF BSF_03.jpg
 

wgray

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Willie Gray
:bash: greaaaaaaaaaaat, back to searching.
 

mgwin

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Willie,
Where are you located? I am not sure, but I may have one. I would have to look.
 

wgray

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Maryland, I believe I found one, I am going to pick it up in the morning. It’s about a 2 hour drive........stay tuned.
 

dschwandt

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That one is probably for a pre QA Cub and will need to be bolted on.
 

kmcconaughey

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Yep, pre QA narrow frame. Please note that you can mix and match the blade and sub frames. So if the blade you acquired yesterday is in better condition than the one you just picked up today then swap out the sub frames. You have to pry the subframe apart where it pivots and pop it out and then pop it back in on the other subframe. You'll probably want to swap the lift bracket from them as well, as the wide frame one should stick out a bit farther then the narrow frame bracket. Don't quote me on this but it might be possible to use a 1/2" rod through one set of holes to make that snap into the QA hooks. I'm seem to recall someone doing that in the past. Otherwise it should work fine as a bolt on.
 

wgray

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Willie Gray
Ahhh, that makes more sense now. The thought of putting a rod in their crossed my mind as well might try that out we will see. Yes, I know they can be interchanged. I think this one may be in a little bit better shape I may switch them out later. I don’t know yet I guess we will see how boating on goes this afternoon and take it from there.
 

wgray

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Willie Gray
Next stupid question of the day...... Where does it actually bolt too? It seems too tight to go actually over the frame if you look at the pictures it’s pretty snug where it is now it doesn’t want to go up anymore.
 

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kmcconaughey

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Will the top holes line up with the QA hooks? If not you'll have to fab up some extensions like are shown in the manual that David linked.
 

hydroharry

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David - I sure wish that manual you linked wasn't missing a couple pages. I thought I had an original copy of it but can't find it now. The missing pages will show Note B which corresponds to the frame extenders, item 19 in the diagram below. I wouldn't have to type the following dissertation if we just had all the pages (but heck, I kinda like long posts :)

Kraig - you're right. If Willie had a QA latch he could use a rod thru the top holes and it would mount in the QA latch. I've done it below but never really liked it. There is actually another method to mount the blade using the non-QA mule drive assembly. I think it may have been shown on the pages missing from the Manual that David linked. Don't know for certain if that is where I saw it before, but I never liked it anyway since the little non-QA mule drive is somewhat lighter steel and seems like it could possibly twist up.

Willie - the sub-frame you have is Item 15 in the Parts diagram below. It's for a non-QA latch tractor (70/100 and 71,102,122,123 built 1963-67). You are missing the frame extenders (you need 2 of them) shown as Item 19 on the parts diagram below. About 40 years ago I actually purchased a pair of the frame extenders since I didn't know what they were. Can't remember the cost but boy was I surprised when they came in. First, they were painted IH red. 2nd, all they were was flat stock steel (same as the ears on the sub-frame you have) with 3 holes drilled in them. 2 of the holes lined up with the 2 holes in the ears so you can bolt them together. The 3rd hole was where you bolted it to the frame. Wish I could remember how long they were so you could make a couple. All I recall is the space between the top hole (for mounting to the frame) and the middle hole, was a little more than the space between the middle hole and the bottom hole. I'm sure you could figure it out if you want to make these. My WAG would be if there is 1 1/2" between the holes on the ears you currently have, then the top hole and middle hole are probably 2" apart, center to center.

By the way, the sub-frame in the 3 pics that Kraig posted above is Item 22 in the Parts diagram below. Although 22 looks about the same as 15 in the drawings it is NOT. The hanger ears on the front of 22 are alot longer and have 2 pins.

1612992951732.png
 
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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Keep thi point in mind here....
The sub frame has to hang low enough under the tractor so the tie rod does not hit the axle when it pivots.
 

hydroharry

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Keep thi point in mind here....
The sub frame has to hang low enough under the tractor so the tie rod does not hit the axle when it pivots.
Yes, good point Dave.

Now, if someone just had those frame extenders (Item #19) and could provide the dimensions it would help. I know there they are 3/8" flat stock steel, same width as the ears on the sub-frame. Off hand I'd say they are probably 1-1/2" or 2"W x 5" maybe 5-1/2"long.

I just realized they Parts diagram shows the holes in Item #19. I don't think the top hole has that much space above the center hole.
 
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wgray

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Willie Gray
:greenthumb: I think I can probably make something happen with the ol oxy-acetylen torch, and fit it for the 71, in the mean time ill keep searching for the "right" frame for the 126.
 

Ken Black

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not that i have a clue here.. just tossing it out there..
mount the back to the rock shaft i think it goes?
if the top hole sline up with the latch mount. use rod stock or cut some pins and weld them into the plow.
that area is for up and down force. not much. all force is to the rear ?
 

wgray

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Willie Gray
Here are the measurements, and a picture of them, but that will not make it fit on your 1x6 1x7 though..
So with those it still wont work on the 126, i got that. It will fit on the 71 with those though right?
 

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