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danderson

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According to the Kohler Engines Measurement Guide there were styles A, B, C, D, and E pistons. Maybe the A stamp is piston style. Here’s the page.
3E163F1F-A953-45CF-8900-8E14755DBDFC.jpeg
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Well David - post #33 does NOT show a pic from the same position as the pic I posted with the circled area. The pic with the circled area is more to the right of the valve cover opening and views up a little so you can see the cooling fins above the opening.

Bernie - it sure would be nice to see a pic taken from the same position. The one you posted at #33 just obstructs the view of the area where the crack was appearing. I think alot of guys viewing this thread would like to see that area just like me. On the other hand, if you say there is no crack there well WE BELIEVE Ya.
 

bpientka

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I tried to reproduce the photo.

1st is similar
2nd zoomed in
3rd after wire brushing

06B97471-2461-48E9-9DAF-2FBAAA23A488.jpeg
901B368B-5096-45E6-84FD-5424F01AB07D.jpeg
C1483ACF-C5FD-4136-BCC6-8911FCB2BFD4.jpeg
 

bpientka

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Bernie Pientka
I also looked inside the engine in this area.

Couldn’t see any cracks on the inside.
 

hydroharry

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Bernie - WOW!!! You did it especially with the zoomed in pic. There is NO crack. That dang pic where I put the circle really had a confluence of shadows to make it look like a crack was there.
Thanks for posting the additional pics.
 

bpientka

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Bernie Pientka
No problem Harry!
Thanks for your help this is my first major engine overhaul so I am learning a lot and want it done right.
 

dschwandt

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Good idea to replace the governor and shaft bushing while you are at it.
Don't loose the little shim behind the governor when you remove it as well as the shim(s) on the cam through pin.

Your machine shop will tank the block, bead blast it and probably take a hair off the deck.
They will tell you which piston and rod size to order and whether or not you will need valves and guides. The valves come with some kits and the guides are only another $20 or so.
All they should need is the block, the crank and valves. Soon as you get the piston, rod, valves and what not, take them to the shop. They really should have the piston in hand before they do the work and of course they will need the valves as well.

You will need a torque wrench, foot and inch pounds as well.
An resurface the head too.
Make sure you get the gasket set with the "fire ring" around the combustion chamber.

Mine parts for the 301 I am doing showed up today and will be at the machinist1st thing Monday AM.

Good luck!
 

hydroharry

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Bernie - I almost hate to say this but I'd sure follow David S's advice. He knows what he's talking about.
 

dschwandt

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Another thing...
Clean the flywheel really well on the area where the S and T timing marks are and highlight them with a bit of white paint or silver magic marker so they will stand out and be easy to see when you set the timing through the sight hole on the shroud.
Static time the engine while on the bench to set the points.


Once this is done and the engine is back in the tractor w/fuel in the carb and ready to start.....
If all was done correctly it will be running almost before you can let go of the key or starter button whichever may be the case.
 

bpientka

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Bernie Pientka
My list of additional replacement parts is now growing! I am hoping to use one of the rebuild kits (Ultimate Engine Rebuild Kit Kohler K241 10HP ) for the primary parts.

We will see what the machine shop measures.

Trying to get the motor all figured out first then onto the tractor. The tractor does have some issues. The wiring harness is pretty rough with multiple previous owner adjustments. Will need some driveline work as well.

A long road ahead!
 

dschwandt

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Looks like you are getting a lot more parts that you will really need
Carb, coil and main bearings to name a few.
Be advised the carb will more than likely need some modification to work on your engine.

The kit I got was for a 301 but K241's are about the same price

141325270631 | eBay
 
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danderson

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Looks like you are getting a lot more parts that you will really need
Carb, coil and main bearings to name a few.
Be advised the carb will more than likely need some modification to work on your engine.

The kit I got was for a 301 but K241's are about the same price

141325270631 | eBay
I’ve bought from that guy many times.
 

bpientka

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Bernie Pientka
Thanks for the reminder on the governor shim! It was still in the block. So the governor I took out appears to be all metal. Looks like the new ones are plastic. Still better to replace them? Or is this one of those topics like should I use Hytran oil or the cheap stuff?
 

dschwandt

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Nothing cheap about the new plastic governors!
This is my 8th older K series engine overhaul and so far I have never seen an all metal gov.
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Looks like you are getting a lot more parts that you will really need
Carb, coil and main bearings to name a few.
Be advised the carb will more than likely need some modification to work on your engine.

The kit I got was for a 301 but K241's are about the same price

141325270631 | eBay

David S - just so it's clear, I believe what you were saying is the kit suggested by Bernie has alot more parts than he really needs - meaning he doesn't need the carb, coil or main bearings.

I fully agree. From what I've seen over time, the main bearings really last forever. The carb is subjective but I definitely prefer the original Kohler (Carter) carbs which almost always can be re-built. The coil either works or doesn't and I wouldn't replace unless it doesn't work.

Now, my question to you David is - the head gasket I see in the kit suggested by Bernie, doesn't appear to be the "fire ring" type. You might want to provide some info for David on why you believe it's really the best. I really prefer the original Kohler head gasket myself.
 

bpientka

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Bernie Pientka
Well here is a photo. The gears portion sticks to a magnet.
74FBCAB6-8494-4FD9-A657-68C30216794C.jpeg
 

mgonitzke

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I think the earlier engines had steel governor gears. I would definitely keep that as long as the flyweight pivots aren't worn or something.

Gasket with "fire ring":
12.JPG


Gasket without "fire ring":
11.JPG
 

bpientka

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Bernie Pientka
block and crank at machine shop! Waiting to hear measurements so I can order parts.
 

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