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Randy, buy a cheapy size light oak stain and try it on a scrap piece before poly..I think it will make the grain jump a little more....just a suggestion...
thanks gary, i might do that next time. the issue is, i hate finishing anything, sanding, painting, staining, etc. i would rather just build it and let someone else do that. but over the years, i have made several pieces from just oiled or poly finishes. i made 2 really nice walnut jewelry boxes that i ended up giving away to previous girl friends. i do have my walnut cedar lined chest and a pair of end table lamps. several wall display units.
 
Randy, that's kinda funny..I'm just the opposite..I want to see the finish so often I may skip an inlay or 2 just to put on final finish...I try to be patient but sometimes give in ..It's all about wood grain to me...
 
Gary I was at an Elk banquet last week. Sat with a guy that did Muzzleloaders. He was Real good at building them. His one gun had that spalted maple. Man what I sight to see
 
Not something I would do for a variety of reasons...
Gary, I needed a new carving mallet so I took a trick from your playback! Walnut oak and maple, I think it turned out pretty OK! Now I gotta carve flutes into the molinillo I'm making for my best friends wife. They are both first generation Americans, so I did some digging to find authentic Mexican cooking items. I found this molinillo and decided that was the one to try!
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Here is the molinillo, I gotta carve flutes into it yet, but to give you an idea of what it looks like. It's used to froth Mexican hot chocolate. I'm just using maple heart wood. I kinda like it so far.
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Jay,love it!!I'm most pleased someone could use the info...thanks for sharing...I've had 50/60 weather deg so it's back to wrenching in garage.Repaired and painted a Craftsman rider and fixed a friends troybuilt roto....but cold is not over yet I'm sure...Picked up a 106 that runs and drives and tomorrow supposed to pick up an "old cub",that's all I know about it... How's your skating rink holding up? too much snow...
 
Jay,love it!!I'm most pleased someone could use the info...thanks for sharing...I've had 50/60 weather deg so it's back to wrenching in garage.Repaired and painted a Craftsman rider and fixed a friends troybuilt roto....but cold is not over yet I'm sure...Picked up a 106 that runs and drives and tomorrow supposed to pick up an "old cub",that's all I know about it... How's your skating rink holding up? too much snow...
The skating rink is holding up beautifully! However it's about a 1/3 smaller than it was, the snowbanks are getting huge! The weather is still well into winter patterns here, but it's getting daylight around 0730, so it should start warming up by the end of the month. You better post some pics of that "old cub!"
 
Jay,Most pleased the rink is still entertaining!!...I see you have one of the old workbench styles with clamps on the side...I bought one yrs ago at auction but it's now covered with tools instead of wood working stuff but hey it's still being used.....frothing chocolate,never heard of that being done by hand...interesting.....don't forget to make some candle holders with combo wood....pics of cubs when it is here...... it's back to 30 deg. darn...
 
The bench is a sjoberg, I bought it about twenty years ago, and it's been moved all over the country, 13 times in total, and is still rock solid, and the best money I've spent. The vice pictured is the face vice on the left end (as you're facing it), it also has a tail vice on the right side, and numerous holes for bench dogs. I added dog holes to the vices for clamping smaller odd shaped objects. This bench has become absolutely essential in my work.
 
Jay. picked up 2 free cubs ..1 is a 1045..common/cheap model....2 is a ags 2130 .12hp ko. ,shaft drive,made from 94-99...never saw one before it is a 6 speed mechanical but driven by clutch pedals that look exactly like a hydro set up..talk about confused...I spent 30 mins trying to find hydro release only to find it rolls in neutral...it will be unique to learn....no pic looks like any 2000 series....
 
Jay. picked up 2 free cubs ..1 is a 1045..common/cheap model....2 is a ags 2130 .12hp ko. ,shaft drive,made from 94-99...never saw one before it is a 6 speed mechanical but driven by clutch pedals that look exactly like a hydro set up..talk about confused...I spent 30 mins trying to find hydro release only to find it rolls in neutral...it will be unique to learn....no pic looks like any 2000 series....
I never heard of a 2130 either... I gave it a Google, looks like a decent machine. Do you put it in gear, and then the "hydro" pedals are forward and reverse? I think crapsman had a set up similar to that when they were dark green machines. I'm not sure though. What are your plans with it?
 
I never heard of a 2130 either... I gave it a Google, looks like a decent machine. Do you put it in gear, and then the "hydro" pedals are forward and reverse? I think crapsman had a set up similar to that when they were dark green machines. I'm not sure though. What are your plans with it?
Jay, I'll get back to ya' on the 2130....????
 
Does anyone have any experience cutting live-edge wood slices from logs, and then preserving them to prevent cracking? My one sister had a grove of walnut trees cut down, and my other sister asked for a plate sized slice about 2" thick, and a few 4-6" diameter slices of various thicknesses. I have found a few techniques on the interweb for preserving the slices, but I trust you guys a bit more. Don't tell my sisters, but I may sneak a slice or two of Bradford Pear in on them to see if they notice the difference.
 
Does anyone have any experience cutting live-edge wood slices from logs, and then preserving them to prevent cracking? My one sister had a grove of walnut trees cut down, and my other sister asked for a plate sized slice about 2" thick, and a few 4-6" diameter slices of various thicknesses. I have found a few techniques on the interweb for preserving the slices, but I trust you guys a bit more. Don't tell my sisters, but I may sneak a slice or two of Bradford Pear in on them to see if they notice the difference.
I personally don't, but the hardwood dealer I buy from said to dip the end of the board in about four inches of wax. This will drastically slow the drying process and prevent a majority of the splitting. He said stacking the lumber properly to dry is the most critical part of keeping the lumber flat. A rule of thumb, according to him, is to allow the lumber to dry for 1 year per inch of thickness. 1 inch thick, dry for 1 year, 2 inch and so on, before you work the lumber for a finished product. He said some people paint the end of the board, but it doesn't work nearly as well as wax, and that how they sell all there boards, with each end dipped in wax.
 
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