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Mike Hoover

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I am at a crossroads with my restoration of my 106 Cub. I replaced the clutch with the springs. When I started engine and pushed clutch in, the driveshaft moved backwards and springs came off or bent. Should the driveshaft move? I was told by someone familiar with cubs that there maybe something haywire near the rear end. I will have to unbolt rear fender/seat to get at it. I have the pics of the clutch
area and I think everything is in the right place.

Mike
 

digger

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I am at a crossroads with my restoration of my 106 Cub. I replaced the clutch with the springs. When I started engine and pushed clutch in, the driveshaft moved backwards and springs came off or bent. Should the driveshaft move? I was told by someone familiar with cubs that there maybe something haywire near the rear end. I will have to unbolt rear fender/seat to get at it. I have the pics of the clutch
area and I think everything is in the right place.

Mike
Post pics!
 

dfrisk

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MIKE - Would probably help US help YOU if you tell US what all you worked on and had apart.
If you didn't mess with the reduction gears, didn't have the stamped steel cover off the reduction housing all must be well in there. IF you forgot to install one of the two roll pins into the driveshaft coupler, the driveshaft would push backwards when you pushed the clutch in. If you securely block up the back wheels of your tractor you can easily see the driveshaft and roll pins in the coupler from underneath the tractor, can even work on it if you like. Lots of work removing the fenders especially if you work alone.

I forget what Plow Day it was, was at Blunier's, in the spring, only PD I took two tractors to, my #72 and the 982 for SON. Had extra wheel weights on the 72, and the normal 3 sets on 982, I ran over a pile of bean straw, land wheel spun till it dug down to solid ground and "SNAP", front roll pin in the driveshaft coupler broke. Steve and BIG STEVE let me use their shop and attenpt to repair the tractor so I could continue plowing, even gave me a selection of roll pins to chose from, power tools, light, think there was even a radio in the shop. Working from underneath made it pretty difficult, I eventually pulled the tractor back to the parking lot and pulled the 72 onto the trailer and I let SON plow a few more rounds. When I got home, I unloaded both tractors, returned the rented trailer, and started right in fixing it again when I got hole. I syphoned all the gas out of the tank, removed the battery, and lifted the front of the tractor with my loader till the tractor was vertical, half hour later I lowered the tractor, replaced the battery, added gas and ran the 72 around the yard a bit. MUCH easier sitting on a low stool working on something about knee height.
 

dschwandt

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The throw out bearing should slide on the driveshaft to compress the main spring.
Sounds like the rear spirol pin is missing or broken allowing the spring to just slide to the rear when the clutch is depressed.
Something must not be put together correctly either that or the main spring is broken maybe??
The driveshaft proper should not move fore and aft at all, period!
Are you 100% sure that is what is going on here??
Did you have the driveshaft completely out of the tractor?
 

Mike Hoover

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Well, I tell ya that I blew the clutch our and it was cracked. I was pulling a large rock with a chain when it let go. When I started tearing down, notice wiring was shot with the paper insulation. Replaced all that and it runs fine. Pounded out pins, replaced with new clutch and installed pin. shaft moves when I push clutch pedal in and causes to move the clutch back and the holding springs get bent. Also when clutch is pushed in, the driveshaft still turns. I am in the process of taking the rear fenders off to see if anything obvious from the rear end. I have attached several photos, hope I got the right angle.I have put alot of time and little money and I hate to see it scraped. If any backyard mechanics near Pittsburgh, Pa are known to anyone, let me know. Taking it to a dealer is out of site for me
Thanks everyone
Mike
 

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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Are you missing the teaser spring, part #4 in the drawing?
Is the clutch adjusted properly as per the manual with correct free play??
Did it work correctly before you had the issue with it?
Inspect the rear coupler for broken/sheared spirol pins.
Was the throw out bearing in good shape?
turns freely w/no issues?
Slides feely on the driveshaft?
Was the shaft itself in good shape, nice and smooth with no wear and grooving from the main spring?
Was the inner surface of the throw out lever smooth and even and lot worn lopsided?
Are the motor mount bolts in the pan all present, tight and not worn from being loose which would hog out the holes in the frame and allow the engine not to be in alignment with the rest of the drivetrain? i.e. too far forward, backward or cockeyed in the frame?
These parts all need to be in sync to operate correctly w/no issues.


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Neil Mullins

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I once had that teaser spring to fail, collapse, & basically lock the clutch engaged.
 

Mike Hoover

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Well gents, I have found everything I did to replace the clutch ok. When I push clutch in the driveshaft moves to the rear. I know the driveshaft is not to move. What I found out was something came loose, a bearing broke, whatever in the transmission. I put a putty knife in back of collar in front of transmission case to keep it from sliding backwards. The clutch works as it should and driveshaft doesn't move. I know it's southern engineering, but I was going to weld a bracket at the rear of the transmission case to keep driveshaft from moving.

What ya think

Mike
 

JPrattico

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I personally think, you should pull the transmission and remove the reduction drive, find the problem, and fix it the right way. But hey, that's just me, its your tractor, you do as you see fit.
 

Neil Mullins

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For me that would be a H*** NO! For me it’s always repair to OE at a minimum. A IH Cub Cadet is, as designed is as good as it gets in a lawn/garden “TRACTOR”
There is very little that can be improved.
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Mike - hmm, tranny problems are really really rare on these units. Maybe you have a broken roll pin (spirol) on that collar at the back. Those buggers can look like they are intact but are sometimes broke/cracked right thru. Could be what's allowing the driveshaft to slide.
 
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