- Feb 2, 2013
- Central Virginia
- David Ware
From another forum (IH8MUD.com)
"Hobart and Miller share parentage now. The Hobarts are more of a "consumer" product and uses some cost saving pieces to make the lower price. Lot's of people say that they "love" their Hobarts even while it's in the shop being fixed."
It used to be I would have recommended acetylene torches as the first purchase, since you could weld, cut, braze, and just heat . It also gave you good torch handling and puddle manipulation skills that translated into other types of welding..(for me, TIG welds that don't look like a stack of dimes....). Now days, a good MIG "glue gun" is probably the best choice, but I'd stay with a good brand, as nothing is more frustrating than a poor running wire welder. I would go with the model that supports a wire gun for aluminum, you can add it later and it's the easiest way to join AL..
As far as auto-darkening hoods, I'd stay with a name brand (I've got a first generation Speedglas that my wife bought for me in '87 and a Miller Elite). If you do much welding, I'd be leery of the inexpensive ones (I know this is not a popular opinion, but I've "flashed" my eyes and the burn hurts - beside, anyone checked on the price of an eye transplant??). BTW - if I had my choice I'd have the Miller hood, but with Jackson head gear, the miller doesn't fit my fat head too well when the nice foam pad is on the band..
Hi Dennis!! Good reading your reminisces.. you too Ken.
When I started welding I used an American Optical gold lens , still have one . I remember when they still welded boiler tubes with oxy - acetylene .I bought my first auto darkening I tested all and Jackson lens was the clearest but the hood was a non functional piece of junk . Welded boiler tubes with it for years . Later picked up a Miller in a steal deal for a Miller Maxstar 150 with gas tank and flow meter. If I weld today it is with the Miller and a Miller welder. You get what you pay for .