Voltage Regulator and continuing carb issues

[acocconi]

I'm working two issues on my 107. First, is the carb. The float still seems stuck, and it appears the spring on the main adjustment needle isn't providing much "spring". The engine runs, but if I shut it off, fuel will pour out the carb intake until I shut off the fuel tank valve. When it does run, it's too lean. But when I attempt to back off the mixture adjustment, the needle won't stay put. Let's put this one aside for the moment.

The other issue is the voltage regulator. I went to take the cover off so I could clean the points inside. (the insides are pretty clean actually). The problem is that - probably due to being 50 years old - the rubber shock mounts broke. So do I attempt to fabricate new rubber shock mounts, or spring for a new regulator? I found a 12 volt regulator on Yesterday's Tractors website for 18 bucks. Don't know if it will fit, because it is listed for Farmalls. Sent them a note so we'll see how they respond.

Any ideas? Fix or replace? Here's a photo, too. Comments on the carb are welcome, too!

 

[dschwandt]

That's an easy fix.
Use a section cut from a bungie cord.
Sounds like the carb needs a rebuild.
I'd try stretching the spring a little or adding a small washer under it.

 

[hydroharry]

Allen - about your main adjustment needle screw (vertical screw on top of carb), is it possible someone switched the spring from the idle fuel needle (screw at 45degree angle)? The spring on the idle fuel needle is about 1/2 the length of the main needle screw. And just in case you're not using a Kohler or IHCC manual the preliminary settings are 2 turns from full closed (lightly bottomed) on the main needle, and 2 1/2 turns from full closed (lightly bottomed) on the idle fuel needle.
And about the float, I fully agree with David that your carb needs a rebuild kit. However, sometimes you can tap very lightly on the sides of the float bowl with a screwdriver handle and get the float to release. No guarantee it will not stick again tho.
Charlie at CC Specialties has the Kohler carb rebuild kit Part No. KH 25-757-01 or KH 25-757-01S (the S is just for service part).
Also, all the above info assumes you have an original Kohler carb (not a Walbro replacement or other).

 

[eweiss]

go to your hardware store and buy rubber grommets to fix your regulator

 

[acocconi]

Here's my update. I checked out re-build kits for the K241 carb and found that for an extra 10 bucks I could get a whole new carburetor. So I did. Maybe that was a good idea; maybe not. Time will tell. Nevertheless, I thought it made sense for the money. It arrived a day or two ago and I had time to work on things today.

I got the voltage regulator back together yesterday. I made new shock mountings from a piece of radiator hose. It worked out pretty well. Photo attached. I also cleaned up the points inside, hoping that would solve the discharge condition. It didn't. So, while I have nice new mountings, my voltage regulator is no better off than it was before. We'll have to revisit that soon.

The carb was not an exact replacement. Not that I expected it to be, but nevertheless, it took a little work. The 90 degree fitting for the fuel line was problematic in that the old part didn't really want to thread into the new carb. I took a hard look at the threads on the "new" 90 degree fitting and the "old" 90 degree fitting and they looked the same. A little sanding on the threads of the old part and cleaning up on everything and I was able to get the old fitting installed. The issue was that the new 90 degree fitting had a barb connection for a rubber/plastic fuel line. The existing connection is a brass tube. I'd have to change a whole bunch of parts (not on hand, by the way) in order to use the new fitting. But... the old fitting is on, the fuel line is connected and life is (reasonably) good.

On to the governor/throttle connection. The old carb has a connection that is fastened to the throttle on the carb by a stud with a 3/8" nut. The new carb has a connection that does not come off. So, I had to take the connection off the governor so I could thread the new piece on to the governor itself. Not that big of a deal, but still a pain in the neck.

Last issue: choke. The new carb has a different way to actuate the choke. In fact, it is the opposite of the old carb. So, when connecting the cable to the new choke, "out" is open, and "in" is full choke. I know this, but would someone else? Doesn't matter, does it!

After all the connections were complete, I opened up the gas and attempted to fire it up. No go. OK, now what? Check the gas tank and..... oops! It's pretty much empty! Add gas and voila! It runs better than it has in a very long time. Let's hope that it keeps going for this season!

I kept the old piece and may rebuild it yet. Depends on how I do on all my other projects!

 

[RayF]

I also recently bought a repop carb... I swapped my old carb choke plate and shaft into the new carb... and everything fit like it was supposed to.
You have to be careful getting the old carb's choke plate screws out... If you don't grind the exposed threads off, you will likely break the (brass) screws off, before they will back out. I broke one of mine...
You should replace those screws with new ones anyway. I used RED Locktite on the new screws as well.