• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Upgrade

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Found the time today to degrease & clean up the sheet metal & external parts to finish assembling the 12 HP. The cylinder head had a pretty good head gasket “fire ring” groove wore into it. So out comes my set of hand stones that I use to keep milling machine tables flat & true. Took about an hour but achieved a surface within .0005” using a precision straight edge & feeler gauge. Then I realized I didn’t have any sort of gasket sealer for oil pan, valve cover box, etc. So stalled out there. Pics later
 
4E143388-5A73-4A8C-84F3-EBC0796775F1.jpeg

Had to repair a bolt hole in upper heat shield. The broken part was missing, so I had to improvise. Patch is from 1/4” steel. It is all I had to work with.
C3D3F1AF-3D72-4D24-85EE-84E515D70787.jpeg
 
Shouldn't the plate be solid with no notch, and only the round holes? Like the ones on the 1x8/1x9 series.
 
Now to find a helper & a day to Swap the 12HP 301 into the tractor . as I said i9n the beginning somewhere wanting to swap engine & install a creeper drive at same time.
 
Neil - You mentioned not having gasket sealant or dressing. I've used HYLOMAR Universal BLUE gasket dressing on my last 2 Kohlers, and it's been used on a 302 & 351 Ford, and an IH 7.3L PSD, haven't used any on a FARMALL yet but that day is coming.
If you check Hylomar's website they list the companies that use and recommend Hylomar for sealing gaskets. I used to use Permatex in several different flavors, but I kept having vacuum leaks on 1/10th and 1/5th cubic inch 2-stroke glow plug engines burning alcohol & Nitro-Methane fuel with a few percent different types of oil, including castor bean oil. The Hylomar Blue sealed them up forever, Permatex about 2-3 weekends of racing, they were 1/10 and 1/8th scale RC race cars & trucks. My Kohlers don't leak either.
I used to be able to buy it at Blain's Farm & Fleet when Permatex packaged it for Hylomar, but I have to buy it on-line now. The thin shim gaskets in a Kohler engine, a thin swipe on both sides keeps those gaskets sealing and the die casting will be easy to remove, Hylomar doesn't harden. And the gaskets in the valve spring compartment, same deal, ditto the oil pan.
 
I used a product from Fel-pro that is designed to seal metal to metal fits like the area between engine block & rear main bearing cap. On the side cover & shim gaskets. For everything else I used brush on Permatex aviation. I didn’t put anything on the valve spring cover/breather box gaskets. Figured I’d check valve adjustment after break in
 
After a long break from working on this project I finally broke the tractor down to install the creeper drive & re-maned 12 HP engine.

Tear down went along pretty good. Clean up inside frame rails, the usual caked in dirt, grass etc.

Creeper unit bolted in. Started looking at driveshaft/clutch assembly… I had forgotten all about building a new driveshaft 10+ years ago. I apparently didn’t have 5/8” CRR on hand so I had turned 3/4” on both ends to make it work back then. Not a big problem, other than I didn’t bother to place the spiral pin hole needed for the shorter creeper driveshaft length. “I’ll never need that”. RIGHT!! LOL. I had also turned the pilot end of driveshaft to a smaller diameter & have replaced the bronze pilot bushing with a double row sealed ball bearing. Which has worked out great.
 
After a long break from working on this project I finally broke the tractor down to install the creeper drive & re-maned 12 HP engine.

Tear down went along pretty good. Clean up inside frame rails, the usual caked in dirt, grass etc.

Creeper unit bolted in. Started looking at driveshaft/clutch assembly… I had forgotten all about building a new driveshaft 10+ years ago. I apparently didn’t have 5/8” CRR on hand so I had turned 3/4” on both ends to make it work back then. Not a big problem, other than I didn’t bother to place the spiral pin hole needed for the shorter creeper driveshaft length. “I’ll never need that”. RIGHT!! LOL. I had also turned the pilot end of driveshaft to a smaller diameter & have replaced the bronze pilot bushing with a double row sealed ball bearing. Which has worked out great.
BE0D9DD9-71EB-4705-B1D5-806276BA2B20.gif
 
Now to make a spring back up washer .060 thicker than original to make up for the material faced off of these plates. Hopefully that will keep clutch spring tension near OE.
 
Back
Top