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The steps on replacing the wiring harness on a 107.

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Joined
Oct 24, 2022
Messages
14
Location
Marietta Ohio
I have a 107 that runs fine. It will start right up idle and run for about 30 to 40 minutes then it dies I have checked and I am not getting voltage to the battery I believe part of the problem is the original wiring it’s very brittle I can obviously see corroded exposed wires so I have purchased a brand new wiring harness and a brand new voltage regulator my questions it is this seems to be a pretty straight forward process but are there any suggestions, shortcuts or anything I need to be aware of during a wiring harness replacement additionally I’ve seen several posts and videos on how I should touch a positive wire to the voltage regulator and do this and that. I do have the manual but I don’t know that I’ve seen anywhere about once I replace voltage regulator battery and wiring harness that I need to do anything beyond that any suggestions or help will be greatly appreciated thank you
 
Back in the "OLD DAYS" the voltage regulator had to be polarized. But that is no longer needed. Once you turn the key on the first time, it will be polarized, (hint - double check / verify each wire is properly connected before connecting the battery. And clean grounds, make sure there is no paint, rust, debris or dirt between wire connector and metal connections.
 
Back in the "OLD DAYS" the voltage regulator had to be polarized. But that is no longer needed. Once you turn the key on the first time, it will be polarized, (hint - double check / verify each wire is properly connected before connecting the battery. And clean grounds, make sure there is no paint, rust, debris or dirt between wire connector and metal connections.
Thank you for the help
 
It's not "back in the old days"...it's because it is a starter/generator. A plain generator would still need to be polarized.
 
I have a 107 that runs fine. It will start right up idle and run for about 30 to 40 minutes then it dies I have checked and I am not getting voltage to the battery I believe part of the problem is the original wiring it’s very brittle I can obviously see corroded exposed wires so I have purchased a brand new wiring harness and a brand new voltage regulator my questions it is this seems to be a pretty straight forward process but are there any suggestions, shortcuts or anything I need to be aware of during a wiring harness replacement additionally I’ve seen several posts and videos on how I should touch a positive wire to the voltage regulator and do this and that. I do have the manual but I don’t know that I’ve seen anywhere about once I replace voltage regulator battery and wiring harness that I need to do anything beyond that any suggestions or help will be greatly appreciated thank you
Hey, has it been solved? It would be nice to know how you fixed it.
 
Hey, has it been solved? It would be nice to know how you fixed it.
It has not I don’t have a garage so I work outside and the temperature dropped down to the 30s not that I can’t work out in that weather I just don’t want to it’s gonna be in the 40s and 50s this weekend hopefully with no rain so I’m gonna start the wiring swap process hopefully Saturday
 
just make sure all connection points are clean, the harness is not going to hit any hot or spinny stuff and most important, hook the battery up last. i hook everything up except for the battery ground to frame and that i temporarily connect with a pair of vise grips for quick disconnect in case of smoke, etc. i learned this lesson the hard way and melted a harness before i could get it all disconnected. other than that its easy. worst part is trying to get the wrenches to work inside of the dash. not much room in there. i use the gear wrench wrenches for tight stuff like that.
 
just make sure all connection points are clean, the harness is not going to hit any hot or spinny stuff and most important, hook the battery up last. i hook everything up except for the battery ground to frame and that i temporarily connect with a pair of vise grips for quick disconnect in case of smoke, etc. i learned this lesson the hard way and melted a harness before i could get it all disconnected. other than that its easy. worst part is trying to get the wrenches to work inside of the dash. not much room in there. i use the gear wrench wrenches for tight stuff like that.
Thank you will use your advic. I looked at the dash and was thinking it was going to be a tight fit and any nuts or bolts that were going to be rusted we’re going to be under there lol
 
another thing i use is the telescoping magnet things that look like a car antenna. harbor freight sell’s them for 5 or so bucks. not only are they great for picking up dropped stuff in tight spots, you can also use them to magnetize the heads of bolts while you are fiddling with washers and nuts on the other side. mine paid for itself the first day. great for working alone
 
Wondering if you had a chance to finish the rewiring and how it went - any lessons learned you can share? Will be doing the same in a few weeks. Thanks
 
Jim,I've rewired a 106 and 108 in the last yr..Suggestion: take pics and label every wire with a tag.The hard to get to is under the dash so take the time to remove switch,sol. safety switch(if it has one) and clean very well all posts and female plugs also reg posts and ground.....There 's not much fun in getting harness out of frame fasteners but pay attention to the curved areas,they don't go back easy..I made up my own harness one wire at a time by using crimp type ends .It was much easier for me to run single wire at a time then mount and tape together every few inches...If batt cables are old also suggest replacing them as well..I got a hard lesson on a ground cable recently when the end broke inside of the insulation....I'm not great at elec. but if I can do it most anybody can...good luck
 
Funny, I'm rewiring my 107 now! Here's a few pics that might be helpful. A few things I recommend are..
Use heat shrink on crimped terminals.
Use the OEM plug for the key switch, but replace the terminals with new 6.3mm locking ones. Don't splice new wires to old ones!
I ordered an assortment pack of terminals from the place everyone orders from online that starts with "A". I haven't finished mine yet, everyone has dentists appointments 😒
 

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More pics.
 

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Those terminals and connector shells are Packard 56 series. That is the key phrase to finding them. A special crimper is required, but this is the best and most correct way to rebuild a harness if one is doing it themselves.
 
Those terminals and connector shells are Packard 56 series. That is the key phrase to finding them. A special crimper is required, but this is the best and most correct way to rebuild a harness if one is doing it themselves.
Appreciate the input
 
Those terminals and connector shells are Packard 56 series. That is the key phrase to finding them. A special crimper is required, but this is the best and most correct way to rebuild a harness if one is doing it themselves.
I've purchased the connectors from both of these two sites. You can purchase crimpers with replaceable anvils so you can use it for multiple types of connectors.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Packard-56-Series-Electrical-Connectors/p_9108http://terminalsupplyco.com/Connectors.aspx
 
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