iam from albany ny area.. i know what ur sayin lol .. theres one or two spots up here like that lol
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
It sounds like a common problem . One thing that come to reading and responding to many posts is that these are kind of old tractors so they may not perform like a three hour 1025r with out a little maintenance. It could be as simple as some lube on some linkages.
Stephen Wattley
Banned
How about ignition? Is that solid state or are we deal with points. Is there a serial number on this thing someplace?
Serial number should be on the left side of the frame behind the brake pedal. Ignition is points.
hydroharry
***
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,152
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Kraig - he already found the serial number tag for the tractor. I believe Stephen is wondering about a serial number tag for the K341AQS engine. That should be located on the left side of the flywheel shroud partially obscured by the tractor frame. Since it is a replacement engine I have seen a few of them have the tag near the top of the flywheel shroud.
And Stephen - don't get me wrong when I was discussing converting your engine back to a non-AQS. It's probably fine as is and will be a good worker tractor for you. You just have to know/realize that if you attempt repairs and maintenance most all the references on here will refer to original equipment. One interesting fact is that IH choose to combine the Service Manual for the 1x8/9 and the Quiet Line series since they have many similarities.
Last edited:
Allenpatterson
Well-known member
Looks like this 169 still has a manual PTO clutch, I was unaware that the manual clutches would work on an AQS style engine's crankshaft or did you do away with that on your 129 and go with an electric PTO clutch from a quiet line? I'm very curious because I have had thoughts about putting AQS style engine's in 1X8/1X9 tractors but didn't want to go with an electric clutch.
I believe you can mount a mechanical PTO on a AQS engine provided the crank end is the correct size, but you cannot mount an electric PTO on a non-AQS engine.
Stephen Wattley
Banned
Today the 50 inch mower attachment is mounted it is so easy to hang this so much smarter then my sears 24 horse that the deck has rusted out. So I am getting used to the hydro lever and it has cut my hole lawn the mower works great. I am finally gett to like this thing and not regret the purchase. The only thing it needs is the hydro control plates.
Stephen Wattley
Banned
It has the lever no switch and works great
Stephen Wattley
Banned
Can we rename this post back to my project? It not all about the hydro
Stephen Wattley
Banned
Can some someone explain this simple thing and i feel stupid for asking. I working on sheetmetal hood to fit better. I adjusted it to meet dash better and fit tight but the two springs bolted to dash are some kid latch it say in owner book i got. How do they conect to hood and how they work. Maybe i misding a bracket on hood? I see two holes in that area. Picture or even video woud be great.
PACub100
***
Kraig posted this in another thread, he can help you out. You may be missing something...
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2012
- Messages
- 4,071
- displayname
- David Schwandt
They are spring loaded and the front bent hook part (closeset to the wound spring) latches down over the rear hood brace when the hood is closed.
Each side is different in the way it is wound IICR.
Then they driver side end latches in the two tabs that are bent out from the tower sheet metal.
Get plenty of padding between the hood and the cowl when closed and don't get the hood too close and let it rub on the cowl or it will make short work of it and wreck it.
Think split piece of small ID hose or auto door edge protector.
Each side is different in the way it is wound IICR.
Then they driver side end latches in the two tabs that are bent out from the tower sheet metal.
Get plenty of padding between the hood and the cowl when closed and don't get the hood too close and let it rub on the cowl or it will make short work of it and wreck it.
Think split piece of small ID hose or auto door edge protector.
Attachments
Stephen Wattley
Banned
so that is why the fiberglass cowl is all ripped apart, at the hood contact point. my hoood has nothing but two holes near the hood bottom edge. then the springs just hang from the tower
PACub100
***
Yes, not brilliant thinking on IH's part. Vibration + metal on fiberglass contact = "not good".
Kirk sells a buffer strip for that. Nice thing about fiberglass is it can be repaired easy... just sucks doing it
Kirk sells a buffer strip for that. Nice thing about fiberglass is it can be repaired easy... just sucks doing it
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2012
- Messages
- 4,071
- displayname
- David Schwandt
Kirk's strip will eat into the fiberglass as well. Ask any 82 series owner with a worn through dash plastic.
The hood needs to rest on the upper firewall strip that has the rubber baby buggy bumpers on it.
The hood needs to rest on the upper firewall strip that has the rubber baby buggy bumpers on it.
PACub100
***
Stephen Wattley
Banned
this is the version on my 74 169i think something missing on hood, and is this where the end piece you would grab belongs? down in the box for engage front pto
Attachments
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2012
- Messages
- 4,071
- displayname
- David Schwandt
Yes, you are missing the crossmember at the rear of the hood.
They were spot welded in place and prone to breaking at the welds.
Mine is broken in the same place and someone bolted both ends instead of rewelded.
Is the upper firewall still in place?
Should be bolted to the tower.
They were spot welded in place and prone to breaking at the welds.
Mine is broken in the same place and someone bolted both ends instead of rewelded.
Is the upper firewall still in place?
Should be bolted to the tower.
Stephen Wattley
Banned
Firewall if you mean the plate that has the rubber trim edges is still there. I do not see any parts inside the hood on the parts book. They seem to leave out lots small items.
